No offense intended. But if you're posting on a public forum requesting assistance, PLEASE remove your CAPS LOCK first and foremost. Second, please take the time to read over your post carefully to ensure that there are no grammatical or spelling errors in your post BEFORE you click that "submit reply" button. This would ensure that your post is easier to read and understand what you are asking. I can appreciate the level of frustration you must be feeling right now, because I can't imagine the amount of money you have spent in parts just going by what you've listed so far.
Now that we have that out of the way, let's start with some basic things to check before we dig deeper than needed. When you cycle the ignition key to the RUN position, do you hear the injectors buzzing/pre-cycling as well as the hum of the fuel pump? When you remove the secondary fuel filter cap and cycle the key to the RUN position, does fuel fill up the secondary housing RAPIDLY and overflow within seconds or does it just struggle to rise and then bleed back down as soon as the key is turned to the OFF/LOCK position?
Do you have access to a scan tool that can read live data? If so, what are your readings when you select ICP volts, ICP psi, ICP psi desired, IPR duty cycle, FICM_L, FICM_M, FICM_V, FICM_SYNC, RPM and B+? I am asking what you see in readings at key-on/engine-off AND while you crank the engine over. Can you run an injector buzz test? If so, are any codes set? Even if no codes are set, do you hear ALL EIGHT injectors buzzing/clicking, or are some missing in action (EVEN IF IT PASSES THE BUZZ TEST)?
I suspect the answers to any one of the above questions will lead you into the direction you need to be, to get your engine started. Looking at your list of codes at a quick glance leads me to believe your P2285 and P2623 are likely the cause of your engine not starting.
Ford Diesel/Senior/Master Tech
....who works at a dealership that now employs SOME half decent looking female employees since they overhauled most of the administrative staff
....but STILL loves hot women with big boobies
....and STILL hates working on E-Series with 6.0L
Ok sorry about the miss spelled words an caps I am literate so I do the best I can.
i have worked on it all morning wiggling plugs I checked both oil an diesel filter reservoir they both where empty I turned the key on an off 2 times the diesel fuel came up an over flowed immediately oil reservoir was dry till starting an it filled up very fast 6 to 8 seconds had oil pressure open filter reservoir was full I ended up braking diesel filter cap and had to go buy another one someone had over torqued before me an was very hard to screw on an off so I went to take it off the half inch ratchet slot broke I had to take a punch an hammer an beat it off the little steal rod in the middle broke will that stop it from running or have any other causes it broke above first seal second seal gone I hear fuel pump on frame coming on an i hear some small motor in front of driver side make a funny sound rummm rumm rumm some other motor on passenger side comes on an stays on for a 1 or 2 goes off an dose not come back on for awhile I do not hear nothing from the motor an no injector buzz at all wiggled most plugs while turning key on an off took one injector plug off put volt tester on it all 4 pins positive negative straight to battery could not get no reaction i have access to OBD2 no way of hooking up live data scanner
how do you run an injector buzz test. We have figured that much from the 2 codes an the chart played with all the wire's an i noticed one plug was in backwards put it in right dose not seem like it helped at all. Is there any way I can find a live scan tool I can use with out paying for it. Thanks for your help once agin. Plug to high pressure sensor an regulator are plugged in right an regulator was replaced 2 years ago right before I got the truck. The EGR recycled relay is updated to new as well.
The map sensor an main fuel pump are brand new put on just before I bought the truck. The mechanic shop that the previous owner took it to hin picked the guy saying that this part map sensor is bad replaced it an said the fuel pump was bad replaced it then they said that the EGR was bad so replaced that $900 dollars later it still did not run he took it to Ford an they said it was the high pressure pump an it would be $1500 dollars more to fix it. I bought the truck from him i put an OBD2 to it an it said that the cam sensor was bad so I replaced it still did not run I paid tow bill to take it to nozzle master an high pressure was 500 psi mechanic at Ford said it needs 1300 psi to run so I put it in new the mechanic I paid to replace it took the oil coolier off thinking it was like the 7.3 the pump was in the front we found the high flow screen was shredded so put it in new to after he was done it cranked up right away an ran great I want to know is there a proper way of bleeding the high pressure oil rail I know after I tore the whole motor a part there was no oil in them an it would take awhile to bleed them fuel injectors seem not to work at all I clean the high flow reservoir the high flow screen was fine but had some metal pieces on it so I cleaned it very good. Thank you once agin for your time. head gaskets an bolts are brand new too.
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