How do I get the main bearing caps off the crankshaft? There are the two cap bolts, but then there are some kind of pins outside of the bolts. They have a circular head on them with a flat side. A 14mm fits on the head really well, but I can't turn it. It looks like it was pressed down between the cap and the block.

Thanks,
welbo97

 

There are bolts that go through the side of the block through those pins into the main cap.

 

take out the side bolts and the reverse-threaded jack screws

 

I figured I was in over my head so went over to the autoparts store and picked up a Haynes manual. Now I have a little guidance on how to rebuild this engine. And after reading the overhaul section, I'm starting to seriously consider buying an exchange engine. I hate to have come all this way and go to the trouble of reinstalling this engine just to have it not last because I didn't do a good reman. I have an auto mechanic helping me, but he's never remaned a modular engine either. I'm not going to say "overhaul" because I don't plan on taking it back to new specs. I'm just addressing the things that look like they need it. Here's a little history.
'97 Expedition EB 5.4L 4x4
Purchased in 2001 with 66K
Ran heavy oil in it
@140K got a knock
Read this and other forums and realized how I screwed up with heavy oil
Went to a local mechanic who thought the problem might just be in the top end after listening with a stethoscope.
He replace all of the HLA's with the engine in the vehicle, but the knock was still there.
Took off the front diff and dropped the pan to find the rear con-rod journal bearing spun and large and small pieces of bearing all in the oil (including embedded well into the pickup tube greatly restricting oil flow).
Put a micrometer on the journal and found it about .020 out of round... no go for bottom end new bearings. Time to pull the engine.
Pulled it, put it on a stand and went to work tearing down the bottom end- I only intended to replace or grind the crankshaft, replace the con-rods/pistons with spun bearings and rehone those two cylinders from the bottom of the engine.

After looking at the valves, I'm starting to think it needs a head job too. There's big chunks of junk on them. This is a '97, so npi heads. I'm not even sure if I can pull the pistons out the bottom of the engine and do a good enough hone job without pulling the heads. But if I pull the heads, surely these aluminum jobs will warp and need to be reworked, right?

So it's starting to look like a full overhaul instead of the small repair I was hoping for. Given that, a junk yard engine with a warranty is starting to look pretty attractive.
Maybe I can put a Navi engine back and get a little more pep! I'll head over to that forum and see if anyone else has done that.

 

If you don't go with the Nav. engine atleast put in a PI engine.

 

You really need to be running the 5w20 Ford calls for with a Motorcraft filter. The oil is almost without a doubt the cause.

 

Glad to see someone finally admit to problems after running heavy oil, sorry it had to be you though. I replaced my NPI with a PI it really isn't a big deal just a ton of little things that are a PITA. I'd suggest a low mileage engine from a salvage yard, you'll be in it for around $1K and it will drop in using your old harness and moving a few sensors.

 

Man, thanks for the reply. Ive been really laboring over what engine to put in. Was your drop in a '00?

Yeah this problem was all my doing. But it has really taught me a lot about the importance of prompt and proper vehicle care. I guess I've just owned my 6.9L diesel too long. It never complains no matter how badly I mistreat it. I'm about to upgrade it to a 6.0L, so it's better to learn this lesson now that on one of those $8K engines in a nice newer truck.

 

I put a '02 in, wanted an '03 but couldn't find one cheap enough then found out you can get the Van engines up to around '08 that are still 2V just would need to bu a PI truck intake after that. If I did it all over again that is what I would do--a 30K '06 or '07 E series engine and a brand new $250 intake from rock auto.

I guess technically if I did it again I would have had the shop do a $1700 head because it is taking me entirely too long to get this engine all buttoned up, but it is nice having a PI engine with long tube headers for under $1700.