I did with a allen wrench after I called ARP.

 

I might have, I have been reading threads on this topic for a while now on differnt forums...thats probably where I got mixed up. Thats why I came here for a CLEAR answer, not 20 different opinions. Yall made the process clear enough for me, so Im tearing into it today

 

6.9l: http://arpinstructions.com/Instructions/150-4069.pdf (note #4)
7.3l: http://arpinstructions.com/Instructions/250-4204.pdf (note#5)

The recommended torque values are when using the ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT. They claim it comes in the kits but mine did not. I had none available and for this reason is why I torqued mine to the higher value, per ARP's recommendation.

 

What did you use

 

A coating of Moly assembly lube on threads of both nuts and studs, and coating on both sides of the washers.

 

I got my heads off today, gonna try to put them back on tomorrow and start torquing the studs...on the passenger side head, 3 bolts couldnt come all the way out due to clearance issues, this will probably be an issue putting the head back on with the studs in the block. I was wondering if I could set the head on the block and then thread the studs into the block, I mostly see people put the studs in the block first, then set the head. Does it matter?

 

No it does not matter. I put all my studs in after I set the head, except the back 3 or 4 that I held in the head with rubber bands until the head was in place. Make sure you use a thread chase tap in each hole first followed by a squirt of carb cleaner, ending with a blast of compressed air to remove any debris that would intefer with installing the studs smoothly by hand.

 

Alright man, I appriciate it

 

Yeah, the idea of putting the studs on the rear with the rubber bands holding them in while setting the head is because once it's on, you won't have the space to put the stud down through the head.