Trans questions
#1
Trans questions
94 F150/302 2wd. I think I remember I have an E4OD, says "METRIC" on the pan. Anyway, it's got 256 on the clock and I bought a used 2000 engine for it.(You guys gave me good advice on not swapping the EFI from it, I'd be glad to sell the whole top end). I replaced the trans w/ a Ford reman 130,000 miles ago & it's still performing well. Question is, should I get a reman while I have the engine out w/this trans, this mileage? What mods can/should be done if I do, or to this trans & keep it? Not a hot rod at all, reliable daily driver. Tks in advance, you guys know your stuff!
#2
If the trans is still working well, I don't think you should replace it, especially if you're not looking for extra performance or anything like that. As a DD there aren't any performance expectations on the trans except to operate as normal. If it's due, flush/replace the fluid and call it good. Back to that old saying "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" kind of thing.
#4
I don't know what the factory life expectancy is on them, but as with any mechanical component, if you properly maintain it (in this case w/ regular fluid changes at recommended intervals) and don't beat it up, it's going to keep on keepin' on... generally speaking. There's always going to be the chance of a failure that you can't predict or expect, but that can happen with brand new cars as well as 20+ year old cars.
My 1991 E40D has 180k on it and is still going strong.
The only thing I'll caution you about the fluid change is to make sure you buy the right fluid. By 1994 they were well past using Type F in their transmissions, but I accidentally dumped a quart of it in mine once and had to do a complete flush and fill (as well as filter change) on account of that mistake. It's easy to read the label as "Ford ATF" and miss the "Type F" part, so just pay attention to that.
My 1991 E40D has 180k on it and is still going strong.
The only thing I'll caution you about the fluid change is to make sure you buy the right fluid. By 1994 they were well past using Type F in their transmissions, but I accidentally dumped a quart of it in mine once and had to do a complete flush and fill (as well as filter change) on account of that mistake. It's easy to read the label as "Ford ATF" and miss the "Type F" part, so just pay attention to that.
#5
E4OD
Tks for the input! My trans is currently a Ford reman, calls for Mercon5. ( I put a big label under the hood.) If you were putting in a 302 w/100K on it, what would you change same time? Freeze plugs (behind flywheel!), oil pump, timing chain, or does this stuff seem pretty bulletproof? Tks for the help!
#6
If you don't know the history of the engine (meaning the last time it's had any kind of maintenance) then a good "once over" certainly won't hurt anything. Here's what I recommend:
1) Flush the cooling system, which in turn means replacing the freeze plugs (I prefer the expandable plugs to the original type - much easier to install - and make sure to index mark the flywheel to the crankshaft before removing it - in theory it shouldn't matter but IMO it's always better to put things back together the same way they come apart)
2) Replace timing chain and sprockets (this is recommended every 50k anyway, so even if it was done when it was supposed to be, it's due again - also, since the water pump will be removed for this procedure, carefully inspect it for bearing noise and/or play - replace if suspect)
3) Exhaust studs (the ones for the Y pipe are my primary concern, but depending on what the manifold to head studs look like, I'd also replace those)
4) Oil pan gasket (you practically have to pull the engine to replace this anyway - and do this AFTER you've replaced the timing chain and sprockets and installed the timing chain cover)
5) Check the AIR injection tubing and connections at the back of the heads and repair/replace as necessary (if you're deleting it, you should be able to use plugs for the heads)
6) Then all of the "usual stuff" like spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, etc.
That's all I can think of. I hope this helps and that your project goes well!
1) Flush the cooling system, which in turn means replacing the freeze plugs (I prefer the expandable plugs to the original type - much easier to install - and make sure to index mark the flywheel to the crankshaft before removing it - in theory it shouldn't matter but IMO it's always better to put things back together the same way they come apart)
2) Replace timing chain and sprockets (this is recommended every 50k anyway, so even if it was done when it was supposed to be, it's due again - also, since the water pump will be removed for this procedure, carefully inspect it for bearing noise and/or play - replace if suspect)
3) Exhaust studs (the ones for the Y pipe are my primary concern, but depending on what the manifold to head studs look like, I'd also replace those)
4) Oil pan gasket (you practically have to pull the engine to replace this anyway - and do this AFTER you've replaced the timing chain and sprockets and installed the timing chain cover)
5) Check the AIR injection tubing and connections at the back of the heads and repair/replace as necessary (if you're deleting it, you should be able to use plugs for the heads)
6) Then all of the "usual stuff" like spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, etc.
That's all I can think of. I hope this helps and that your project goes well!
#7
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#9
But I suppose, since you're going to have the pan off anyway, it's right there and easy to get to. As krooser said - a standard pump should work just fine.
#10
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well past using Type F in their transmissions, but I accidentally dumped a quart of it in mine once and had to do a complete flush and fill (as well as filter change) on account of that mistake. It's easy to read the label as "Ford ATF" and miss the "Type F" part, so just pay attention to that.
#11
Our dirt car uses a GM metric 200 converted to a single speed forward and reverse and uses Ford Type F...
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