I have a coolant leak on the front of the engine and need to pressure test the system. I've found several testers, one of which will work with an adaptor that costs half the price of the tester.
Any recommendations?

 

Isn't that a pretty generic part?

Pump to pressurize system, then watch for leaks / gauge to measure pressure drop down.

 

The testing isn't a problem, I'm just trying to find out what others are using.

Several testers that I found said they did not fit Ford trucks or had optional adaptors. You need a screw adaptor not the normal bayonet type radiator cap connector that seems to be standard.

Amazon has a Stant tester at $76.04, plus the Ford adaptor at $40.81, plus the radiator cap adaptor at $32.42. A $76 tester is now $150.
(Kind of like flying low cost airlines, "Oh, you wanted a seat on the plane?")

 

I just found this TSB link and it gave me the idea of using a "T" in the small line that feeds from the top the radiator to the makeup tank . I can make a "T" adaptor with a short piece of hose for a lot less than the price of an official adaptor.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...2&d=1294656892

 

Oh you want to bring a suitcase to!!!! more $$$$$$$ They just want you to purchase a ticket and stay home

 

if you have some shop air, a regulator and a few fittings it can be made for about $15 including the regulator.
the trick is though it has to be done with shop air.

 

Yup, that would save the $70+ for the hand pump. My large compressor has a good line regulator, I could set that to 10psi and see what happens!

 

you can go up to 16 psi w/o an issue. just put a ball valve in line so you can see if the regulated pressure is droping. that also mean you dont have to leave the compressor hooked up

 

You can actually borrow the test kit from autozone... Comes with manual pump, gauge and fittings for different Radiators/ bottles.. You just have to buy it and return it in the same condition and they give you your money back... Ive used it on some cars with great results...But bare in mind if you by chance have a HG or EGR leak you might hydro lock the engine

 

I think starting at 5-10 psi would be best knowing that I have a leak on the front of the engine. Once I have that fixed I can go up to 16 psi for the final test.
I bought a brass tee, two barbed nipples, a ball valve and airline fitting at Harbor Freight tonight for $13.70. I'll try it out this weekend.

Thanks for the suggestion!

 

How long has it been since the EGR cooler install??

 

About a month, but I haven't driven more than 6 miles to work and 6 miles back. Usually 185 deg downhill to work, 192 deg after halfway home. (I live uphill from work)
Saturday was a longer 40 mile trip to check out a good warm up. Around 190 deg.
When we turned around there was a drip from the front. It was getting dark so we headed home. Since then I haven't got back to it.
Hopefully it's just a hose.

 

I got the fittings put together and applied low air pressure, it is dripping out low in the front center. Probably the water pump but I can't see where from above or below. We're away for the w/e so I'll have to wait for next w/e to pull the radiator and see what I can see.