Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #31  
Old 01-11-2011, 08:14 PM
jrwhitmire jrwhitmire is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Maryland
Posts: 176
jrwhitmire is starting off with a positive reputation.
Beat me to it Tuffy! Repack both bearings, & get a new seal, the old one won't fit tight enough anymore probably . Hopefully the bearing isn't galled to the spindle.
__________________
'89 F250 4X4 Reg. cab, 5.8, C6, 4.10's, Mass air conv, GT40P's, Edelbrock cam, Ford racing headers, 3G alt.,Western Plow
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old 01-11-2011, 08:15 PM
pintoches's Avatar
pintoches pintoches is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hollister MO
Posts: 3,851
pintoches has a good reputation on FTE.pintoches has a good reputation on FTE.
I would replace the seal and maybe the bearing. Them look rough.
__________________
Pintoches, Ches Lathim,
79 Bronco 400, T18, D44, 9in, 37x12.50X16.5


Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old 01-11-2011, 08:19 PM
cpinter10 cpinter10 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 24
cpinter10 is starting off with a positive reputation.
how do i get the bearing off? just pull? and how much does a grease seal cost?
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old 01-11-2011, 08:24 PM
pintoches's Avatar
pintoches pintoches is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hollister MO
Posts: 3,851
pintoches has a good reputation on FTE.pintoches has a good reputation on FTE.
The seal is $2-$6

this might help
Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
Pintoches, Ches Lathim,
79 Bronco 400, T18, D44, 9in, 37x12.50X16.5


Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old 01-11-2011, 09:15 PM
aguitarestv aguitarestv is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 240
aguitarestv is starting off with a positive reputation.
i think the grease seal is around 4 buck or so, the bearings are around 20 a piece. replace the rotor on the hub (it is pressed on), repack the rear bearing (the original or replacement) drop it into the race (after cleaning and inspecting for pits or scores) then press on the grease seal to the hub (light tabs with a hammer will work kitty, cornering as you go untill its seated) slide onto the cleaned, inspected and lightly greased spindle.the repack the outer( original or replacement) bearing, set it into the hub, then the first locking nut (torqued to 50 ft pounds i belive) wile spinning the hub to make sure the bearings are seated.then locking washer followed buy the outer locking nut. you should know the rest.
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old 01-11-2011, 10:55 PM
Ohio Ford Farm's Avatar
Ohio Ford Farm Ohio Ford Farm is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Madison Ohio
Posts: 690
Ohio Ford Farm is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.Ohio Ford Farm is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
There is your problem. That seal and bearing should have slid off the spindle with the hub. You need to pry, tap, what ever you can to get that bearing off the spindle. Then inspect EVERYTHING for damage.

Drive your wheel studs out to get the old rotor off the hub, replace the rotor and drive the studs back in to lock the rotor to the hub,

Then yes. repack the rear bearing ( if being reused ) if new bearing be sure to pack it well. Place the rear bearing in the rear race and install a new rear seal.

clean and repack the front bearing, I wrap the bearing in a CLEAN shop rag until I am ready for it. Slide the hub assembly on the spindle and install the front bearing. Then install your locking nuts/s and outer hub.

That rear bearing and spindle look pretty bad. Be sure to clean everything up very well and inspect for damage!
__________________
1986 F150 4X4 351 4vHO It was a 300 I6 RIP Totaled Hit a probe with the snow plow
1988 F150 4X2 302EFI and 35's Still under 100000 orginal miles.
1989 F250 4X4 351W EFI Basket Case.
1991 F250 4X4 351W EFI More rust then metal.

Im just looking for a place to park my ride!
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old 01-11-2011, 11:26 PM
cpinter10 cpinter10 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 24
cpinter10 is starting off with a positive reputation.
thanks everyone. i bought some grease and a seal. ill try getting the bearing off tomorrow and let you know whats happening.
i just don't know if i can maybe hit the bearing with a hammer. however that sounds like not the greatest idea so ill try just pulling on it first.
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old 01-11-2011, 11:34 PM
Uncle Grumpy Uncle Grumpy is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 67
Uncle Grumpy is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpinter10 View Post
thanks everyone. i bought some grease and a seal. ill try getting the bearing off tomorrow and let you know whats happening.
i just don't know if i can maybe hit the bearing with a hammer. however that sounds like not the greatest idea so ill try just pulling on it first.

hi all,

What's wrong with using a bearing puller to get the bearing off? Is it hard to come off because the spindles bent out of shape? While it's all apart it will only cost a few$$$ to replace bearings, seals and the spindle bearing and seals as well. Worth the trouble & $ in my eyes.

cheers
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old 01-11-2011, 11:43 PM
Ohio Ford Farm's Avatar
Ohio Ford Farm Ohio Ford Farm is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Madison Ohio
Posts: 690
Ohio Ford Farm is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.Ohio Ford Farm is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
No you don't want to hit it with a hammer. Try getting behind it with a big screw driver, or smaller pry bar. The spindle is harden steel however you can still damage it. Hitting bearings with a hammer is just never a good idea. Maybe see if you can get behind the bearing with a punch and TAP it off with a punch and small hammer.

First I would clean off the spindle in front of the bearing and see if its all pitted up and damaged. If you damaged the spindle there is really no point in pulling that bearing and seal off. Just unbolt the spindle, got get the loan a tool spindle puller ( looks like a slide hammer ) and pop that spindle off and call a Junk yard for a replacement spindle.

You might be ok. It just looks as there is a lot of rust in there. I keep on stressing you need to look at the bearings and races for damage as with all that rust and mess in there ... there is a good chance you have more problems then you think.

If your close to me let me know I would be happy to stop in and give you a hand. Working in the snow sucks ... even sucks more when your kind of flying blind.
__________________
1986 F150 4X4 351 4vHO It was a 300 I6 RIP Totaled Hit a probe with the snow plow
1988 F150 4X2 302EFI and 35's Still under 100000 orginal miles.
1989 F250 4X4 351W EFI Basket Case.
1991 F250 4X4 351W EFI More rust then metal.

Im just looking for a place to park my ride!
Reply With Quote
  #40  
Old 01-13-2011, 12:16 AM
cpinter10 cpinter10 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 24
cpinter10 is starting off with a positive reputation.
thanks.
im still having trouble getting the bearing off. should i try getting all the grease out manually like poking in there with tools and non grease dish soap or what?
does anyone know a good way to get grease like this off of a bearing or a spindle or other parts which i will eventually have to clean?
Reply With Quote
  #41  
Old 01-13-2011, 06:50 AM
pintoches's Avatar
pintoches pintoches is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hollister MO
Posts: 3,851
pintoches has a good reputation on FTE.pintoches has a good reputation on FTE.
The grease in the bearing should has nothing to do with the bearing coming off.
I find brake clean cleans wheel bearings the best. dish soap and water could cause rust if not dried right away.
__________________
Pintoches, Ches Lathim,
79 Bronco 400, T18, D44, 9in, 37x12.50X16.5


Reply With Quote
  #42  
Old 01-13-2011, 08:06 AM
danr1 danr1 is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Sand Lake, MI
Posts: 5,250
danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpinter10 View Post
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

you can see the grease seal on the inner bearing on the spindle.
the grease seal is moved behind the inner bearing when i slide the rotor and hub on. i feel like i need the grease seal to be inside the hub.
If that is rust not dirty grease, looks like rust, you're wasting your time trying to get the bearing off.

Knock that spindle off and get a replacement.

No need to be kind to it, if you don't have a puller, can't get one, get a big hammer.

Knock the spindle to one side, when the gap between it and the knuckle opens slightly tap a screwdriver into that gap. Now knock the spindle the other way, toward the screw driver, will produce a larger gap on the other side, (air chisel handy here) tap a screw driver in that gap now knock spindle toward it. Keep working it back and forth larger gap/thicker screw driver until the spindle is free of the knuckle.

Hardest part will be getting the spindle to move to start with, after that it will come easier.

Don't hit the very end of the spindle, stay back from the very end.
A 16oz claw hammer ain't gonna get it either, use a big heavy hammer using solid blows.

The spindle is trash, damage it all you want but don't damage the axle stub shaft inside it.

Obviously a spindle puller is easier/preferred/ideal but don't always have that option.

Oh and if the inner spindle bearing is as rusty as the rest of it looks to be, looks like that hub has been under water many times with bad seals,
you will likely need to replace the axle stub shaft too. You know once you get it off.
__________________
1987 F250 RC 5.8L C6 4x4 4.10LS (Parts)
1994 F250 RC 5.8L E4OD 4x4 3.55
1995 F250 SC 7.5L E4OD 4x4 3.55
1997 F350 RC 5.8L ZF 4x4 3.55
Reply With Quote
  #43  
Old 01-13-2011, 04:38 PM
cpinter10 cpinter10 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 24
cpinter10 is starting off with a positive reputation.
here is the race of the bearing which i need to separate from the spindle

Click the image to open in full size.


here is the spindle part the its stuck to

Click the image to open in full size.


here is the point in between which i am trying to get something in between to separate it.

Click the image to open in full size.


i dont know if this is 100% correct but this is my guess

does anyone know what could be causing this to stick?
or a solution to get it off?
*remember i dont really have grip because i need to get the race off, not just the bearing which coud break!!!*
Reply With Quote
  #44  
Old 01-13-2011, 06:10 PM
danr1 danr1 is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Sand Lake, MI
Posts: 5,250
danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.
You might be able to save the spindle but that bearing is toast, bearings are cheap its not worth the time spent.

If you want to try and save that rusty crusty spindle first you'll need to get that bearing off out of the way. Its rusted to the spindle, its not going to slide off and if you pry between it and the spindle you'll bugger it up where the seal rides further damaging the spindle.

Tear the roller retainer cage off so the rollers are off out of the way. Now split the inner raceway, its hardened so it will snap rather then cut.

Take a chisel and put it long way IE in line with the spindle, smack it with a sluge hammer, couple few hard solid blows with a heavy hammer will cause the raceway to crack. Once it cracks it will be free of the spindle, least lot more then it is now. If need be use something to open the crack some so it will slide right off.

Once you get the dead bearing and seal off get some plumbers emery cloth, use it to sand all the rust and scale off until the spindle is shiny clean again. Pay particular attention to the areas where the seal and wheel bearings reside on the spindle, the area between them doesn't really matter. Just clean that area to stop the rust Bearing locations should be clean, little pitting won't hurt anything. Seal area must be defect free.

Don't forget when you pick up new bearings get new raceways to put in the hub with them. Easy to change, use a suitable drift to knock the old raceways out, use the old raceway to knock the new raceways in. Visually verify they are fully seated.
__________________
1987 F250 RC 5.8L C6 4x4 4.10LS (Parts)
1994 F250 RC 5.8L E4OD 4x4 3.55
1995 F250 SC 7.5L E4OD 4x4 3.55
1997 F350 RC 5.8L ZF 4x4 3.55
Reply With Quote
  #45  
Old 01-13-2011, 06:17 PM
danr1 danr1 is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Sand Lake, MI
Posts: 5,250
danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.
Oh and you still need to get the spindle of, with all that water damage the inner spindle bearing has got to be just as rusty.

If its not already to late, the first couple odd times you use 4 wheel it will gall the heck out of the axle stub shaft rendering it useless and unrepairable. The inner spindle bearing doesn't use a inner raceway, its needle bearings ride directly on the stub shaft.
__________________
1987 F250 RC 5.8L C6 4x4 4.10LS (Parts)
1994 F250 RC 5.8L E4OD 4x4 3.55
1995 F250 SC 7.5L E4OD 4x4 3.55
1997 F350 RC 5.8L ZF 4x4 3.55
Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2011, 06:17 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks

Tags
1989, 1990, 4x4, 90, bearing, dust, f150, f250, ford, hub, race, removal, remove, removing, rotor, shield

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Front hub removal???? ericboj 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 15 07-06-2014 09:18 PM
Lock Ring That Holds ESOF Hub On Come Separately? MattL09 Super Duty & Heavy Duty 3 09-09-2009 09:40 PM
problems removing rotors - 1987, f150, 4x4, auto hubs tommyz270 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 2 05-16-2005 03:18 PM
96 F150 4wd Rotor Removal Problems TOPEC 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 9 02-05-2005 03:00 PM
HELP! Hub Assembly on 97 F150 TwoF150 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 18 04-24-2003 07:54 AM



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:43 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup