Find a steel wholesaler and see if they have a scrap pile. Use at least 1/4" steel plate. Use the gasket for a template for both plate and a new gasket. If you use a nice steel tubing and elbows, it'll weld w/o mig or tig. Napa has the 1/2" hose fittings for the ends.
I used to make them. Plan on spending $50 for the materials, elbows, hose fittings, steel, paint, gasket material, etc., and about 3-4 hours to fab. it.
If you're in the market for an autolite 4100 with the smaller venturi (480 cfm, 1.08 venturi size), then I have a trick for you.
The prices on these good reliable carbs have gone out of sight imo. This is due to Pony Carbs drawing attention to them for performance and mpg, and b/c many mustang restorers seek them out. On ebay they typically run $170 for one, and it still needs rebuilding!
Here is how you save $: Go on ebay and search for 'Ford Carburetors,' not 'Autolite 4100's.' People list them not knowing what they are, and with a discrete email thru ebay, you can inquire as to the 1.12 stamp on the float bowl (600 cfm), or whether it has the coveted 1.08 stamp (480 cfm). Don't mention autolite 4100.
I recently bought one $70 this way. Also, be watching the last 30 seconds of the auction. Let the bidding stay low up to this point. Don't even bid before this. Then, in those last seconds, you drop your bid b/f anyone else can counter, and the carb is yours.
Interested if anyone has any pictures of the distributor on an EFI 300 4.9l model. I currently have one and cannot get it running, I'm not trying to clog the thread as I'm a newbie, but I would like to know if anyone could get a picture off of maybe a running fuel injected model, so that I have an idea of where the distributor must be in order to get some-what appropriate timing.
Just use the 'static time' method. Remove the spark plug from cylinder #1 (the front one), then unplug the coil wire. Turn the engine over very slowly until #1 piston is at the top of rotation, on the compression stroke. You'll hear/feel air coming out of the spark plug hole. I usually insert a wood dowel into the hole to feel the piston rising. When you have the piston at top dead center, plug in the coil wire and turn on the ignition. With the spark plug connected to its wire, set it on a metal surface so it get ground. Now loosen the distributor and slowly turn it until the spark plug sparks. Then advance the dizzy in the opposite direction of rotation a tiny bit.
Replace the spark plug and start the engine. Set the timing with a light or vacuum gauge, and off you go.
Can somebody help me find a write-up on the EGR valve restrictor plate? I've seen several methods described in text but a picture tells 1,000 words!
Several methods I've seen described so far:
-Make a plate from sheet metal with reduced orifice that bolts to the intake side of the EGR traced from a gasket
-Insert a washer of approx. 3/4" with 5/16"-7/16" orifice into the exhaust gas tube
-Crumpled up ball of aluminum foil inserted into either intake or exhaust gas tube side
I've always wanted to solve this soft spot in the off-idle torque range. I have time to research this and would really appreciate the collective wisdom of the board here before I do any surgery. The truck is at 299,600 miles at the moment and I'm not going to do anything until she hits the magic 300k.
John F. Daly III
'77 F-100 LWB, 100% Aftermarket 302-R.I.P. (Stolen)
'95 F-150 SWB, 300 I-6 Now with 300,000+ miles!
It's pretty easy, but there are a couple tricks that will help it not leak after you put it together. I'm going to assume you know how to take it all apart, and that you've inspected your harmonic balancer's seal area and installed a Speedy-Sleeve or replaced the balancer.
Use the best seal you can get your hands on, and install it in the cover.
Install the cover, very loosely, to the front of the engine. Then insert the harmonic balancer (unless you own Ford's installation tool, #T68P-6019-A: if you don't, you'll need to use your harmonic balancer instead) and tighten it down, ensuring that it mates properly with the seal. Make sure to use some heavy grease on the I.D. of the seal, and on the O.D. of the balancer to lubricate it.
Using the crankshaft bolt, tighten the balancer down, and fully install it. This step centers the cover without the use of the special tool that you don't have.
Tighten the cover bolts, remove the balancer, and tighten the remaining bolts.
Now clean the end of the crankshaft , key and all, as well as the I.D of the balancer. Use a small amount of silicone sealant (I use Permatex Ultra Copper) on the inside of the balancer (to seal the crankshaft and key to balancer interface) and install it again. Then pull the crank bolt again, and silicone the washer and bolt to ensure a good seal, reinstall it and torque it down. This step is necessary to ensure that the leak path between the balancer is sealed off. There is no need to put silicone on the threads of the bolt.
I've used this method dozens of times and never had a seal fail.
1984 Ford F150, 300-6, NP435, NP208.
The welfare of humanity is always the alibi of tyrants-Albert Camus
if you happen to have an old distributor laying around, take it apart, pull off the gear, cut off the head (keeping the dist shaft intact, as well as the oil pump shaft)...and voila! you have your very own priming tool prior to start up on a newly built 300! slides right in, and you have a decent bit of material to get a bite on with the drill of your choice.
For anyone wanting to do the 1 piece gasket upgrade, here's a thought.
I just ordered a new 80 - 82 oil pan for my engine (the style with the dip stick that goes into the pan.) It's a Dorman 264-024.
Interestingly, when I got it, it did not have the raised ridges around the bolt holes, like the stock pan. I'd planned on grinding them off when I got it but now I don't have to. For anyone who needs an new oil pan, this is a great way to go since you can jump right up to the 88+ 1 piece gasket.
They also have one without the dipstick provision 264-011 (dipstick goes into the block). Which was (grrr for me) way less expensive.
1981 Ford Bronco. 300I6 Offenhauser DP Intake Holley 600 4bbl, 31" BFG A/T, NP435, 3.00 rear 9" EFI Manifolds. 2.5" high flow cat/muffler.
1984 Ford Bronco. 300I6 Offenhauser C Intake Holley 600 4bbl, 31" BFG A/T, NP435, 3.55 rear 8.8" EFI Manifolds. 2.5" high flow cat/muffler. Supermotors Pics
With the 300 and 240 the block is rather long and doesn't leave much room between the water pump and the radiator if you're considering installing an electric fan. The buzz all over the online community is about a few types of high output fans, all from the mid eighties.
The king is the Lincoln Mark Vlll. It puts out a whopping 4500 cfm on high, but requires more space than the 240/300 allows. Next is the Taurus fan. It is smaller, and like all these fans comes self contained in its own shroud. It puts out about 4,000 cfm, is dual speed and quiet, but is also too big for the 240/300. However, there is one model of the Taurus that has a relief in the shroud webbing that allows you to place the water pump shaft there in the void. You have to search to find it, but when you do you'll recognize it immediately.
Another fan that fits nicely is a dual fan set up from a '95--2000 Contour/Mistique, with the 24 valve engine. It fits nicely, but with space at a minimum. It puts out 3500 cfm on high.
You will need to upgrade your alternator to run it, and you'll find all the information you need for that further up in this tips and tricks section. k
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