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No start... again.

  #46  
Old 01-10-2011, 09:22 PM
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So your not running without an ECU, your just running with a MSD ecu..
 
  #47  
Old 01-10-2011, 09:40 PM
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Are you sure the timning chain didn't jump time........... you have spark and fuel.........
 
  #48  
Old 01-10-2011, 10:19 PM
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I did the tests to ensure the timing chain was not stretched.
And assuming that the timing chain can't jump a tooth without stretching, it's good.

I've tried setting at TDC, and I literally just got done setting it at 10 degrees BTDC.
No help there.
 
  #49  
Old 01-10-2011, 10:22 PM
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In fact, I have strong spark, good fuel pressure, and timing is good.
Compression should be fine. I have not had a chance to check it with a gauge, but it is a low mileage engine, and I put a little oil in the cylinders to raise compression.

Still nothing. It's driving me insane. I hate working on this damn truck.
 
  #50  
Old 01-10-2011, 10:57 PM
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no it for the injectors so they fire right dragsters use it looking for the papers to send you
 
  #51  
Old 01-10-2011, 11:06 PM
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Honestly I would prefer just fixing it how it is. I don't really want to go buy a MSD set up you know?

If it comes down to it, i'm swapping it over to a carburetor.
 
  #52  
Old 01-11-2011, 05:40 AM
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How can you set the timing without getting a spark???

Is your distributor shaft loose and wiggling around?
Sounds like your harness is a disaster, intermittent electrical problems are a nightmare to diagnose.
 
  #53  
Old 01-11-2011, 07:03 AM
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When you unplug the computer the injectors will not fire so it will not start.
The unplugging of the Computer is a test to see if spark returns only. Not to start the engine.
Sounds like it is out of time or the engine is turning too slow to start.
You need to turn the distributor while the engine is cranking and once it starts you need to time it with a timing light with the SPOUT removed. Then put the SPOUT back in after you tighten the distributor hold down bolt.

The TFI is a type of ICM.
The pick-up they were talking about is the PIP sensor switch mounted on the stator assembly inside the distributor.
 
  #54  
Old 01-11-2011, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
How can you set the timing without getting a spark???

Is your distributor shaft loose and wiggling around?
Sounds like your harness is a disaster, intermittent electrical problems are a nightmare to diagnose.
I do not know where you are getting that I do not have spark.. I have GOOD STRONG spark.

Subford, when I unplugged the computer, thinking it was bad, the truck still tried to fire randomly like it did. Could it be that it was firing on any fuel that could have been in the cylinders already?

The engine turns over good and strong, not slow. I have tried turning the distributor while cranking the engine to try to find the right timing to start it, and nothing works. I have disconnected the spout wire off the distributor mounted module and set the crank at TDC. Aligned the rotor and tightened down the clamp to get it in the ballpark. Checked with the light it's been perfectly on 10 degrees BTDC and just TDC. Neither worked.

Idea's?
 
  #55  
Old 01-11-2011, 10:08 AM
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Yes, it could be firing on fuel in the cylinders or intake.
Are you sure you are not 180 out on the timing?
 
  #56  
Old 01-11-2011, 01:00 PM
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No Start...again

You have tried many things to no avail. I had a problem such as yours and after days of trying to find what the problem was, I check 3 fusible links on my F250 5.8L. Come to find out, three of the links were completely destroyed due to an internal short in the battery. After repairing the links and several other sensors that were taken out by this short, the truck started right up. Hope this helps some.
 
  #57  
Old 01-11-2011, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by PeterSr
You have tried many things to no avail. I had a problem such as yours and after days of trying to find what the problem was, I check 3 fusible links on my F250 5.8L. Come to find out, three of the links were completely destroyed due to an internal short in the battery. After repairing the links and several other sensors that were taken out by this short, the truck started right up. Hope this helps some.
There is no way a internal short in the battery can cause a fusible link to blow.
An internal short in the battery will cause the voltage to drop and a drop in voltage with the resistance the same will cause the current rate to drop.
High current is what opens a fuse link or a fuse.
It is what is called Ohms Law.
 
  #58  
Old 01-11-2011, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Prozon
Okay guys, I checked out what you guys said.
I jumped the OTHER wire, the one that was not green. (It's white by the way.)

It still does not start.
Does anyone else think my computer theory may be an option? It does the same thing with the ECU plugged in or not plugged in. Fires some, and doesn't start.

I'm getting really annoyed at this damn truck.
Try checking for "burned-out" or melted Fusible Links. Good luck.
 
  #59  
Old 01-11-2011, 01:51 PM
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Ok, so as I'm hearing. engine spins over and tries to run kinda like an old 'hit and miss engine' but the spark is great, fuel pressure is good, timing is close enough for it to at least run like crap.

Unplugging computer is a way to confirm good strong spark but you already had good spark.

I got nutts once and hooked my timing light to the coil wire as the pos was trying to start and it didn't always flash. so I had intermittent great spark

Plugs are wet so you have fuel, start fluid doesn't help. Distributor shaft isn't sloppy sideways.

What would I do?

Let me think about this.

Just think about how glad you'll be when it's over like a bad dream
 
  #60  
Old 01-11-2011, 02:00 PM
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I was speaking frin experience regardless of what Ohms Law stands for in people's mind. You will never know until you check out the Fusible Links to the important parts of your truck, i.e., ECM, starter, alternator. The fusible link from the starter relay to the starter solenoid may be at fault. However, you have several others that need to be checked out carefully from start to finish before assuming that they (the fusible links) are not at fault. Whatever the case, your problem appears to be electrically connected.
 

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