Good to be here, having an issue with my wife's 94 F-150 5.0 150k miles.

A little background: It's been a dependable truck for all these years, never any engine problems at all.

About 6 months ago it stalled like somebody turned the key off. After diagnosis (mostly help from this forum) the ICM went bad, I replaced it and all was right with world for about 6 months. Now it has spark only when I let off the key after cranking.
The spark plugs are dry now, not fuel fouled like they were after the ICM failed.(Injectors not pulsing?)
I went to test the PIP but I don't have an led. (No codes were present today, but the battery had been disconnected)

I'm thinking about throwing a reman distributor at it.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

So if you just turn the key to the run position, do you have power up to the coil through one of the small wires hooked on the coil? If YES I would run a hot wire from the positive post of the battery to the proper small wire port on the coil and see if the truck would start. I would do this as a troubleshooting measure. Don't leave the hot wire hooked up for any length of time without the engine running.

 

Yes, it has 12v to coil with key on. I used a test light from the positive battery terminal instead of the wire you mentioned. During crank, the light just stays on, no flash. The ICM isn't switching the signal to the coil. The ICM is new, so that leaves the PIP or wiring?

Thank you for the reply, it sounds like there is a new distributor in my future.

 

Sadly, it is entirely *possible* that the ICM is bad. Quality is not what it once was. Additionally, I don't honestly know whether a '94 uses a distributor mounted module, or the remote mount, but usually the little tube of schmoo you get with the new ICM's is the wrong stuff. Which just burns them up in a hurry.

 

My money is on a ICM. If you have a o-scope or a good multimeter, you can watch the signal from the PIP to see if it's behaving; I bet it's working fine and the AutoZone ICM decided to take a nap.

 

Agreed about the quality, new doesn't mean good. Mine is the remote location under the cruise servo. The grease that came with the ICM was enough to get a good coating, but who knows..

I'm not crazy about throwing parts at it, but I have little choice in my situation. It's our only vehicle at this time and I need it running. lol

 

Thanks, I have a good meter. I need to research the PIP testing procedure.

 

That 'Grease' prolly fried your ICM, it needs to be a thermal paste, to work right.
#7 is PIP-->Part 5 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Fender Mounted)
ICM-->Part 1 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Fender Mounted)

 

Thank you so much.

 

Yup, if it's "grease" or a "greasy" texture, it's not the right stuff. Thermal paste is honestly more of a "wet putty" like texture, in my experience. I worked for a couple different FLAPS over the years, and I can't point to an exact date, but I started noticing it around 2005 or so, whoever is packaging the ICM's for the various brands are apparently just throwing whatever packet of schmoo they happen to grab into the box. It's most often white lithium grease, or dielectric grease. I don't even bother trying to use it anymore.

 

Thanks, I'm going to find a Motorcraft ICM and the correct thermal paste and hopefully that will work.

 

55,000 5 Star ratings.

 

Outstanding! Thanks very much.

Question: Is the Motorcraft ICM the best available? One would think that OEM should last...right?

 

My opinion is the Motorcraft is the least likely to be bad out of the box. If you have it in the budget motorcraft is the best long term investment. Put that thermal paste on and you should be golden. I assume you tested the old one and that is in fact your problem. The link Torq'ed listed is very good to test the ICM. Best of luck. Sandy

 

Yes, I tested the switching signal from the ICM to the coil using the test light to + battery terminal to the 2 small wires on the coil.....not flashing. Light just stays solid. After cranking with no spark, I see momentary spark using my HEI tester when returning the key to the off position.