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  #31  
Old 08-22-2013, 11:30 AM
OldOneTwo OldOneTwo is offline
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Thanks for the tip. I'll keep that in mind when I get a chance work on it.
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  #32  
Old 08-22-2013, 09:04 PM
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I wish I tried pulling the bed years ago. I've always dropped the tank too, until I had a reason to pull the bed on the S15 (reason below). It was so easy I decided to try it on the F250. It was far, far easier to pull the bed then to drop the tanks. No draining fluids, overhead lifting, hooking up fuel lines and wires over the tank while holding the tank up, just easy access to everything and much cleaner.

As far as dirt and rust, I've eaten more dirt dropping a tank than pulling a bed. Rust shouldn't be an issue, just cut the 6 bed bolts off and reinstall with new ones with anti-seize for the next time.

I can see the frame rail hitches being a deterrent though.

I had dropped the tank on my S15 to replace the fuel pump. Ended up needing a new tank and sending unit as well. Got all new stuff, installed it, a sort while later I had issues with the truck starving for fuel. Went through the usual fuel filter, fuel pump relay, etc.
Finally figured it had to be in the back, either the new pump was failing already or, just possibly the fuel lines kinked when I mounted up the new tank.

Because of the latter possibility I decided for the first time to pull the bed to get access to the fuel tank. I wanted to know for sure the condition/position of the fuel lines without disturbing them. Sure enough that was the problem. Rather then return to their normal curve ALL the fuel lines were kinked.

So removing the bed not only turned out to be the easier option, but it gives me access to inspect that everything is going together correctly without guessing and letting me down later on.

Back to the Ford, I did read after the fact about that front tank sending unit being accesible without removing bed or tank and I've since inspected it and can see that's accurate. There's quite a bit of access to the right side of the tank and the sending unit is mounted on an angle/slant and not flush on the top like the rear. Shouldn't be hard to pull it.
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1985 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab 4x4, 7.3 IDI,ZF5
1986 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab 4x2 6.9 IDI C6
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  #33  
Old 08-22-2013, 10:26 PM
OldOneTwo OldOneTwo is offline
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I think pulling a bed on a S15 might be a little easier than the 8 foot dually bed on my F350. A lot heavier and to protect the fiberglass fenders, they would have to be removed as well as my 5th wheel hitch mounting. That would take a lot longer than the hour and half to remove or install the tank. My experience with fuel lines on my truck, is there was a set to them where kinking would be very hard to do.
With only 66K miles (I bought it new in1996) there sure was a lot of junk in the tank. My fuel filter was black with the crap.
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  #34  
Old 08-22-2013, 10:52 PM
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Well, like I said I did the 8ft bed on my F250 later, pics on first page of this thread, but I also did agree that the frame rail hitch would probably be a game changer for me too. My '84 had a goose-neck hitch with a large plate in the bed. Looked like it had been in there since new. If I still had that truck (I wish ) I wouldn't pull that bed either.
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1985 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab 4x4, 7.3 IDI,ZF5
1986 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab 4x2 6.9 IDI C6
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  #35  
Old 08-22-2013, 11:33 PM
Bonanza35 Bonanza35 is online now
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Isn't there somebody that can rebuild the sending units in the tank. Either of mine work at all. One tank goes to 1/2 full when full, and the other to 1/4 full when full. I just write down mileage to estimate before refueling.
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  #36  
Old 08-23-2013, 08:47 AM
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Yes, this guy for one:

Fuel Senders

I haven't tried him yet, but I'm going to contact him about my front one when I get ready to pull the bed to do the rear so I can get both done at the same time.
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1985 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab 4x4, 7.3 IDI,ZF5
1986 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab 4x2 6.9 IDI C6
1992 F350 CC dually 7.3L IDI, E40D Sold!

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  #37  
Old 08-23-2013, 01:51 PM
Bonanza35 Bonanza35 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevy_Eater View Post
Yes, this guy for one:

Fuel Senders

I haven't tried him yet, but I'm going to contact him about my front one when I get ready to pull the bed to do the rear so I can get both done at the same time.
Thank you Chet.
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  #38  
Old 08-23-2013, 06:58 PM
OldOneTwo OldOneTwo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevy_Eater View Post
Well, like I said I did the 8ft bed on my F250 later, pics on first page of this thread, but I also did agree that the frame rail hitch would probably be a game changer for me too. My '84 had a goose-neck hitch with a large plate in the bed. Looked like it had been in there since new. If I still had that truck (I wish ) I wouldn't pull that bed either.

Didn't mean to ignore what you said and I apologize. I know what you mean about wishing you had your older truck. I do too. Mine was a 1965 F100 with a 352 V8. I had done a lot of mods to it, but circumstances dictated getting rid off it.

Again, I apologize for not regarding your opinion about pulling the bed.
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  #39  
Old 08-23-2013, 08:33 PM
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That's okay, I was rather long-winded up there anyways, I probably wouldn't have read it either.
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1985 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab 4x4, 7.3 IDI,ZF5
1986 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab 4x2 6.9 IDI C6
1992 F350 CC dually 7.3L IDI, E40D Sold!

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  #40  
Old 08-24-2013, 12:33 AM
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Cool!! I appreciate your input whether I use it or not. Never know when a piece of info will benefit you or not.

Take care.
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  #41  
Old 08-24-2013, 06:12 PM
jlwoods99 jlwoods99 is offline
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I went to the junk yard and found one same shape as mine and it was stainless steel but had a 4 prong wire harness. I got the plug it only used 2 wires like mine and spliced it in and its worked perfect. Wish I could tell you the year but it was in the back of a truck loose.
jim
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  #42  
Old 08-26-2013, 12:22 AM
FordOwnerJoey FordOwnerJoey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevy_Eater View Post
Here's a little follow-up on this (still haven't fixed my gauges).

Here's the Cone of Failure that came off the one P/U tube:

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Here's the 'fix' so I can get to that last 1/4 tank of fuel in each tank:

Click the image to open in full size.
Im going to switch both of my sending units over to this way. I have the same problem when it reaches about 1/4 tank it starts acting up and surging and what not. But that cone thing has a little filter in it, would like a universal filter be ok to clamp on the end of the hose? as long as its rated for diesel ofcourse... I just dont want to be sucking up any loose debris in my tanks. or did you take the cone and mount it to the end of the hose?
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  #43  
Old 08-26-2013, 08:38 AM
OldOneTwo OldOneTwo is offline
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That round orifice on the side of the pickup cone has a diaphragm in that will allow fuel to be sucked in that way if the screen on the bottom ever becomes clogged. The cone is roughly the same length as that rubber hose you see as a fix.
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  #44  
Old 08-26-2013, 11:51 AM
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heard nothing but good things about these guys:

Services

they say from $75 to $150 is typical.................
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  #45  
Old 03-13-2014, 07:09 PM
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Some extra info to add to this. The Cone of Failure is 3.5" in length. That includes the top part that the sending unit tube fits into, approx 1".




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1985 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab 4x4, 7.3 IDI,ZF5
1986 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab 4x2 6.9 IDI C6
1992 F350 CC dually 7.3L IDI, E40D Sold!

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Old 03-13-2014, 07:09 PM
 
 
 
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