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  #16  
Old 01-15-2012, 01:19 PM
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fellro86 fellro86 is offline
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I tried to remove my bed once, bolts are too rusty, and I would eat plenty of dirt and crud anyway. I couldn't get the bolts broke loose, so I just drop the tank, not really that big of a deal IMHO. Eventually I will have to remove it, but to take it off to replace it, but until then, I just deal with it.
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  #17  
Old 01-16-2012, 07:13 AM
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NorthernDiesel NorthernDiesel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fellro86 View Post
I tried to remove my bed once, bolts are too rusty...
This is the reason I still haven't done the vent upgrade on my truck... actually, its the rails that run side to side and support the bed, they're rusted such that they'd get damaged during removal and there's no guarantee the bed would go back on properly.
Good thing to check before getting into bed removal.
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1994 F250 XLT HD 7.3L IDI E4OD 4x4
Banks Sidewinder (w/g), D60 Front, Detroit Lockers, 4 Wheel Disc, Hydroboost, Buckstop Bumper, Warn Winch
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  #18  
Old 01-16-2012, 07:34 AM
artfd artfd is offline
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Exclamation

Almost all the bolts on my '83 are too rusty to remove without damage, unless they've been soaked with leaking fuel. My angle grinder is my most useful tool.
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1983 F250 6.9L Diesel, bought new & have 160,000 miles on it. Still getting 22-25 mpg driving it around town. Supposed to need a new flywheel ring gear and clutch hydraulics.
2001 F150 4.2L gas, bought at 11,000 miles & have 108,000 on it. Getting 14 mpg around town & 17-21 mpg on interstates depending on wind & slopes. I replaced my rusted out radiator core support in my backyard last winter, it only too me 5 months. If I'm lucky I can use this truck another 3 or 4 years before it falls apart from rust.
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  #19  
Old 01-16-2012, 06:45 PM
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I had to cut the two forward ones. The other 4 were in just good shape I cleaned and reused them. I also used anti-seize on the threads of all of them when I resembled.
Don't let the bolts stop you, it's still WAY easier than dropping the tanks and with new treated bolts it'll be even easier next time.
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1985 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab 4x4, 7.3 IDI,ZF5
1986 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab 4x2 6.9 IDI C6
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  #20  
Old 01-16-2012, 08:44 PM
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fellro86 fellro86 is offline
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Sad truth is that I would have to drop the tanks to get the bolts. I tried to get the rear ones first, and they wouldn't give.
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the workhorse:86 F250 4x4 6.9 Diesel 4-spd, 4.10 axles
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  #21  
Old 01-16-2012, 09:09 PM
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Then you're not running factory tanks, the bolts are no where near the tanks.
They'd have a hard time assembling the truck that way.
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1985 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab 4x4, 7.3 IDI,ZF5
1986 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab 4x2 6.9 IDI C6
1992 F350 CC dually 7.3L IDI, E40D Sold!

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  #22  
Old 01-16-2012, 09:34 PM
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I can get a socket on the bolt, but the rear tank is in the way to get anything else up there. They are the factory original tanks, I already had the back one down. I can change out the sender on the fronts without pulling the tank down, done it several times. It is a little easier when the exhaust can be taken down out of the way... It is a real pain to get the rear down due to the ag hitch coming under the tank. I had to get it down to fix the leak. I ate enough dirt trying to get the bed bolt loose, but living in the north lands and on gravel will do that. I also have skid plates/dirt catchers.
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the workhorse:86 F250 4x4 6.9 Diesel 4-spd, 4.10 axles
the other workhorse 92 F350 2wd crew cab,3.55 rear axle, 92 6bt Cummins, NV4500
the project: 78 F150 4x4 shortbed 351 auto
Iowa Chapter leader, ASE certified parts specialist
Come on down and join us in the Iowa chapter, or your own local chapter!! Thanks, Roger
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  #23  
Old 03-03-2013, 08:15 PM
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Here's a little follow-up on this (still haven't fixed my gauges).

Here's the Cone of Failure that came off the one P/U tube:

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Here's the 'fix' so I can get to that last 1/4 tank of fuel in each tank:

Click the image to open in full size.
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1985 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab 4x4, 7.3 IDI,ZF5
1986 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab 4x2 6.9 IDI C6
1992 F350 CC dually 7.3L IDI, E40D Sold!

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  #24  
Old 03-17-2013, 12:00 PM
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I bought that replacement ending unit from LMC for the rear tank. It just arrived, Thursday IIRC. Figured I'd better get it while they're still available for the '85 and '86 applications. Something like $118 shipped. Looks pretty good, comes with a new Cone of Failure. Interestingly it is pliable, like a polypropylene or similar. Mine were so old and brittle you'd never know they were once soft.
This is my first purchase from LMC. They did a good job of shipping it, the part obviously is kind of fragile, but they put the box with the part in a box about 6 times its size and filled it with peanuts. Good job. I've bought parts from vendors that shipped the parts in the damn display box with no padding.
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1985 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab 4x4, 7.3 IDI,ZF5
1986 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab 4x2 6.9 IDI C6
1992 F350 CC dually 7.3L IDI, E40D Sold!

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Blaming the Prince of Fools should not blind anyone to the vast confederacy of fools that made him their Prince!
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  #25  
Old 05-13-2013, 03:43 PM
OldOneTwo OldOneTwo is offline
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Cone of failure.

I recently discovered my '96 f-350 PST rear tank was running out of fuel at a quarter of a tank. Thanks to FTE I identified the problem.

I found replacement fuel tank pickup foot at dieselorings.com for $31
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  #26  
Old 08-21-2013, 07:53 PM
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Great to hear. I picked up one (same price) recently @ amazon here:

Amazon.com: E5tz9j306ba Oem Diesel Ford Fuel Tank Sender Pickup Screen/Strainer: Automotive Amazon.com: E5tz9j306ba Oem Diesel Ford Fuel Tank Sender Pickup Screen/Strainer: Automotive

Ford Part# E5TZ9J306BA

I figure next time I have the bed off to do that rear sending unit I'll replace my hose extension with the correct part.
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1985 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab 4x4, 7.3 IDI,ZF5
1986 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab 4x2 6.9 IDI C6
1992 F350 CC dually 7.3L IDI, E40D Sold!

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  #27  
Old 08-22-2013, 09:44 AM
OldOneTwo OldOneTwo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevy_Eater View Post
Great to hear. I picked up one (same price) recently @ amazon here:

Amazon.com: E5tz9j306ba Oem Diesel Ford Fuel Tank Sender Pickup Screen/Strainer: Automotive

Ford Part# E5TZ9J306BA

I figure next time I have the bed off to do that rear sending unit I'll replace my hose extension with the correct part.

Better price than mine counting shipping.

Getting my rear tank out was pretty difficult because of the nearly 5 gallons of fuel left in it. I didn't pull the bed because it's a dually and I have a frame mounted 5th wheel hitch.
After all is said and done I figured a way to pull the tank or install it in about an hour and a half. The big impediment is the filler hose.

The sending unit plug and the vent hose clip are located on the cross member at the front of the tank.
The initial pull involved getting a six-sided heavy duty socket for the mounting bolts which are Loc-tited in.
I temporarily put 4 inch bolts in place of the forward mounting bolts with the nuts on enough to support the weight. This allowed the front of the tank to drop down when needed.
The next step was to was to remove the filler hose. Getting the tank hose clamp was hard as the screw head was facing forward. I managed to use a small box end wrench to loosen the clamp. I then removed any supports and a mud shield behind the drivers rear wheels took out the screws holding the hose to the filler door. I cleaned and marked the bottom of the hose with white paint. Now I could twist and wiggle the hose off the tank and over the frame and pull it out the wheel well. Dropping the tank down now was easy since the filler hose is not trapping tank on the frame.
I lowered the rear of the tank enough to get to the fuel hoses. Use a metal release tool for he hoses ( about $7 for a dual size tool- plastic is no good ). The hoses just popped off.

Once the tank was out I use a good size 3/4 inch clear plastic hose to syphon out the fuel and debris in the tank. I used clean fuel poured back into the tank, sloshed around and syphoned again after about 5 times I was getting clean fuel out with no debris. Since I had the tank out I treated all visible rust spots and undercoated the tank.

I did a reverse procedure to install the tank. With the exception of the hose install. I put the hose clamp over the hose with the screw head facing rearward. I put a thin layer of silicone grease on the tank neck prior to installing the tank. With the tank installed (using new grade 8 bolts, nuts and lock washers ) I worked the hose on and used my painted mark for reference. I slid the clamp in place with the nut angled slightly downward. There is a rather large hole on the framework on the left side of the bed that the wire loom for the lights and tow package runs through. Using a 12 and 10 inch 1/4 socket extensions and the correct socket ( tape all this together with electrical tape so you don't lose pieces ) I could hold the clamp with my left hand and work the socket arrangement with my right to tighten the clamp.
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  #28  
Old 08-22-2013, 10:26 AM
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That is how I do it. I know a lot of people say it is easier to just pull the bed, but they must not have to deal with the amount of rust and dirt that I do. I don't really see how dropping from under is so hard. I don't do the longer bolt aspect though, even with 5 gallon in the tank, I will position my knees to hold the tank while I take the bolts out, then once it is loose, I slide it on down and off to the side. I have used a tranny jack too, but typically the knee trick is how I do it.
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the workhorse:86 F250 4x4 6.9 Diesel 4-spd, 4.10 axles
the other workhorse 92 F350 2wd crew cab,3.55 rear axle, 92 6bt Cummins, NV4500
the project: 78 F150 4x4 shortbed 351 auto
Iowa Chapter leader, ASE certified parts specialist
Come on down and join us in the Iowa chapter, or your own local chapter!! Thanks, Roger
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  #29  
Old 08-22-2013, 10:53 AM
OldOneTwo OldOneTwo is offline
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I would have done the knee trick if I wasn't 72 and not have had both hips replaced.
I need to do the forward tank before that pickup breaks off.
I haven't looked into that yet. Waiting for cooler drier weather. I'll pull that tank also so I can clean it out, treat and undercoat it too. My dually only has 66K miles on it. Trying to keep it up to snuff.
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  #30  
Old 08-22-2013, 11:11 AM
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I have often been able to pull the front sender without dropping the tank. If you can get your exhaust out of the way, it is even easier... I sit on the creeper under the truck, knock the retainer ring out, then pull the sender right out. If you want to do more, then obviously that doesn't help...
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the workhorse:86 F250 4x4 6.9 Diesel 4-spd, 4.10 axles
the other workhorse 92 F350 2wd crew cab,3.55 rear axle, 92 6bt Cummins, NV4500
the project: 78 F150 4x4 shortbed 351 auto
Iowa Chapter leader, ASE certified parts specialist
Come on down and join us in the Iowa chapter, or your own local chapter!! Thanks, Roger
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Old 08-22-2013, 11:11 AM
 
 
 
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