Please use descriptive titles for your posts.
The generic "Help me" type title while "cute" is of no help to other users trying to identify posts they may have knowledge about.
==============================
Please post all of the information about your truck!
We assume the make is Ford
-Year
-Model
-2wd/4wd
-Engine
-Transmission
-At least the basics please!
And any other information you think might help, -we are not mind readers.
===============================
PLEASE post only ONE question per topic! Multiple questions in the same thread add confusion.
===============================
This is the 1973-1979 Full Size Truck Forum. We talk about general questions regarding the F-150 thru 350 and heavy duty trucks because some systems are similar.
This site has specific forums for major parts of the vehicle like:
-Engine
-Transmission, Differential, Axle, and Transfer case
-General Suspension
-Fuel system and Carb
-Electrics/wiring...etc etc. -Check out the list of forums.
If your question ONLY deals with a major part of the vehicle, like the ones above, put it in that respective forum. The 73-79 truck forum is for general questions about parts of the truck. A question like "what kind of heads should I put on my engine" has nothing to do with the rest of the truck, it only deals with the engine, so it goes in the proper engine forum.
================================
FTE also has CLASSIFIED ADS for buying and selling vehicles and parts.
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To Experienced Users! If you see a post that you think might not belong, click the button, leave a message, and we will take care of it.[/B] If you have any questions or comments, please contact a Moderator privately.
==================================
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Also try not to use slang terms for things like a distributor (dizzy) since it makes it more difficult for other users to search for information. Please use the proper name at least once in the post, especially in the title.
===================================
Other Useful Information:
===================================
See 73-9 Completed Project Trucks Here: <== This is where you post about completing a project!!!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...o-replies.html
===================================
Tips and Tricks for 73-9 Trucks! <== Post your truck tips here!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...nd-tricks.html
===================================
Tips and tricks for the 351C 351M and 400 Engines: <== Post your 335 Engine tips here!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...es-motors.html
===================================
Automotive Calculators:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/calculators/index.php
===================================
Automotive Technical Articles & Information:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/
===================================
Site announcements:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum74/
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/faq.php

 

FTE does not allow buy/sell/trade discussions on the boards. Please review the terms of use that you agreed to when you registered.The guidelines can be found by following this link: Guidelines

Please use the CLASSIFIED ADS and please use PM/email for those inquiries.

Ad guidelines:
===============
-No Advertising...
-No For Sale AD's...
-No "I have that part... E-mail Me"...
-No "How much do you want for it?"...
...Posts of any kind!

If you NEED a part you may post a Want Ad. Please ask for PM/email replies. Buy/sell/trade conversations are not allowed. Post enuf information so you don't get too many questions overflowing your IN box. Make sure your PM/email works. Send yourself a message if in doubt.

 

Tru<! >ck Values can be estimated from information found in the classifieds here as well as local "Auto Trader" type magazines.

You can also find some reference prices on the NADA site under the "classic" section.

More companies to check: Tru<! >ck Trader Online and Hemmings

If you are looking for an eBay "value" watch eBay for a while for similar trucks. Only you can evaluate your truck with respect to other trucks that are listed.

If you want a solid value take it to a couple of professional vehicle appraisers. They know exactly what to look for and can give an accurate value. We can only give wild guesses. The appraiser can see oil leaks, smoke, bad paint, rust, hear noises, etc etc...

Pa<! >rts Values can best be determined from the Classifieds, eBay, or calling salvage yards.

FTE also has CLASSIFIED ADS for buying and selling vehicles and parts.

 

Here are links to good speedometer calibration methods:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hreadid=179955
https://www.ford-trucks.com/calculat...trument_error/

And a speedometer calibration re tire size re... calculator:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/calculat...php/p-mph_rpm/

More calculators:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/calculators/index.php


FTE also has CLASSIFIED ADS for buying and selling vehicles and parts.


Formula for instrument error:
------------------------------------
Calculator here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/calculat...trument_error/

Manual methods for old folks:
actual mph = 3600 / seconds per mile

speedo error percent =
difference between actual and indicated speed / actual speed x 100

indicated distance =
odometer reading at finish - odometer reading at start

odo error percent =
difference between actual and indicated distances / actual distance x 100


Seconds to travel ONE measured mile:
==================================
Time= Actual road speed
50=72
51=71
52=69
53=68
54=67
55=65
56=64
57=63
58=62
59=61
60=60
61=59
62=58
63=57
64=56
65=55.4
66=54.5
67=54
68=53
69=52
NOTE- Time your vehicle over a 10 mile distance for ease and accuracy.


Speedometer gear replacement:
-----------------------------------------
REMOVE the original driven gear.

Ts = Number of teeth on service driven gear.
To = Number of teeth on original driven gear.
Va = Actual vehicle speed.
Vi = Indicated vehicle speed.
VSS = Vehicle Speed Sensor.

NOTE: Design accuracy is: -2/+5 mph at 30 and 60 mph
(-3/+8 km/h at 50 and 100 km/h).

NOTE: Use one of the following formulas:
-------------
With Va, Vi, and To known, calculate new number of driven rear teeth.
Ts = (Vi x To)/Va
Ts = (To x new tire revolutions per mile)/(old tire revolutions per mile)
Round to whole number, dropping fractions less than .6, and rounding up if
fraction is .6 or higher.

 

Check out this thread for a supplier of steering boxes with HD pitman shaft bearings for big tires etc:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hreadid=188972

 

There are many threads here on the "Highboy".
You can find many of them with the search function.

A few threads are linked below:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...mpilation.html
Torque, how 'bout a highboy sticky? - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
high boys - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
What makes a Highboy? - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

The basic definition seems to be:
=========================
A Hiboy is a Ford truck that came from the factory as having the following:
- Built from 1967 thru 1977.5.
- F-250.
- 4x4.
- Divorced transfer case.

Trucks that are NOT considered a Hiboy are:
- Any truck built after mid-1977. It goes by Consecutive Build Number in the VIN# anything built starting Y80001 is a 77 1/2. **
- Anything other than an F-250.

There will always be a couple very oddball exceptions but, for the most part, this is it.

Front axle choices in the Hiboy were either the 8 lug Dana 44 or the old style low-slung pinion Dana 60 (commonly referred to as the Dana 50). Engine choices were either the 6 cylinder or 360 2 bbl. Steering was either manual or power ram assist.

-Basic definition provided by user: BigBuddy

** VIN information provided by Dennis AKA Mil1ion.
===================================

It has been pointed out that the 300, 351M, and 400 were the engines available in the 77 model year.

 

Always use a filter in the return line when you service or replace any PS system component. This means replacing a line or the pump etc. The source of most PS system failures is microscopic dirt particles in the system.

The dirt particles circulate and continue to erode parts, seals, bearings, pumps, etc which makes more microscopic dirt particles which circulate and...

The noise pumps make is usually from erosion from dirt or air in the system that allows high pressure fluid to flow back thru the valve plate in the pump. Yes, air does erode the valve plate in the pump. The bubbles knock tiny chunks of metal loose that makes those nasty abrasive dirt particles.

Use the following filter in your PS system AND your automatic transmission return line.

Wix transmission/PS filter #58964
200 psi working, pressure relieved, magnetic
Ford equivalent filter kit #XC3Z-7B155-AA
filter alone #XC3P-7B155-BA

Change filter yearly or ~12,000 miles


To change the PS fluid or flush the system:
==============================
Pull the return line (plug the pump port). Direct it into a bucket. Remove the PS belt and turn the pump by hand. Keep the reservoir full. Have someone move the steering wheel lock-lock. Keep adding fluid and turning the pump until the fluid runs clean. Put the filter above in the return line. Reconnect the return line and fill the reservoir to the mark with fluid. Replace the PS belt and run the engine for 1 minute turning the wheels lock-lock. Turn the engine off and let it sit for 30 minutes. Check the reservoir for bubbles. Restart the engine and watch for foaming/bubbles. If they appear stop the engine and wait another 10-30 minutes for the reservoir to clear up. Start the engine again and repeat.

If the PS fluid still foam after two-three repetitions you probably have a bad pump with a groove in the valve plate allowing high pressure fluid to leak past the pump. This usually causes most power steering pump noise. Pump replacement is necessary. It has been my experience that most reman pumps are junk, somebody else's noisy pump just repainted with the bearings and seals replaced. You probably have a better chance of getting a good noise free pump in the junkyard. Remember, contrary to popular belief, and most parts store and junkyard clerks, a PS pump does not make a lot of noise. Normally they can't be heard over other engine noise. Noisy pumps are defective!

 

The 351W and 351C did not come stock in 73-9 trucks. Some of them have been "transplanted" tho.

Eng<! >ine Identification:
=================
351C/M/400 335 series: 8 bolts in rectangular valve covers. Timing chain housing is part of block. Thermostat housing on block. Exhaust bolt holes diagonal.

351M/400 335 series: intake is 12.7" wide the 351C is narrow. The 351M and 400 are identical externally, only internal parts examination can tell them apart.

351W/302/5.0L 6 bolts on trapezoidal valve covers. Thermostat housing on intake. Exhaust bolt holes horizontal.

429/460 385 series: 7 bolts in rectangular valve cover

352/360/390/427/428 FE series: Intake goes under valve covers.

There are other indicators but these may help.
=================================
Tips and tricks for the 351C 351M and 400 Engines:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...es-motors.html

 

Haynes is probably best for a novice mechanic.

Next get a Chilton's as you gain experience and need more information.

When you really need to know your vehicle, get the OEM service manuals, they are available on CD from some suppliers and old paper manuals are sometimes available at swap meets, ebay, or at used book sellers. Some used book sellers specialize in automotive books.
<!http://www.detroitironis.com/>
<!www.autokrafters.com>

If you only need wiring diagrams:
Some suppliers have the OEM wiring diagrams for under $8.00 on CD or the complete service manuals for about $55.

-Or check with AutoZone, look under "Repairs" for generic diagrams.

Vacuum diagrams can be found at AutoZone's website also.

 

DISCONNECT THE BAT<! >TERY CABLE

Pull the headlight **** to the "ON" position, reach your arm up under the dash and there is a button on top of the switch assy that you have to push down on. When the button goes down pull the **** and shaft out as one piece. The shaft slides out easy. Sometimes you have to wiggle the shaft a little to get the button to depress.

Some vehicles may have been retrofitted with a newer style switch that takes a small hook to release a catch and the **** comes off the stem.

 

REMEMBER!
----------------
There are TWO sources of power to the COIL:
1-From the solenoid "I" terminal while cranking -or- directly from the ignition switch. I feel the solenoid terminal was the better system.
2-From the ignition switch thru the ballast resistor wire while running.
There are TWO sources of power to the IGNITION MODULE:
1-From the ignition switch during cranking for the timing retard circuit.*
2-From the ignition switch directly to the module while running.

*-The timing retard circuit greatly reduces the wear and tear on the starter by reducing the current draw required during cranking. It also increases the cranking speed. This can mean the difference between starting and not starting particularly on a warm engine.

 

For many of the crazy electrical problems on these old trucks the problem can be traced to bad grounds. Remember it takes a complete circuit in order for electricity to flow. A bulb or socket may no longer be grounded due to corrosion. An entire fender may not be grounded due to rust. Check the body and frame ground points and cables, Many aftermarket battery cables do not have a ground tab on them that was used to ground the body and frame like the OEM cables did. Clean all connections to bare metal and coat them with silicone dielectric grease. Use internal or external tooth lockwashers as appropriate to help maintain electrical contact. The lockwasher provides a little "spring" to the connection that will help maintain electrical contact during heat/cool cycles. Make sure the body panels, cab, frame, and engine are grounded.

A battery cable that looks good can have corrosion between the cable wire strands and the terminal body. I have been making all of my old battery cables from those lead free terminals and welding cable or standard battery cables. I cut the factory ends off cables and make my own connections. Most replacement battery cables have very thin crimped terminals on the end with a larger hole designed to go over the typical 3/8" Chevy style terminal studs. There is very little wire left when that large hole is punched thru. Proper terminals with a 5/16" hole can be purchased from hardware stores, welding shops, or even "home box" stores. The good terminals can be crimped on and soldered properly. Some electrical or welding shops will crimp on terminals for a fee.

Most of the wire terminals and connections in these trucks are crimped at the factory. Factory crimping is a good process but failures can occur. The electrical systems in these trucks were designed to last about 5 years, maybe 10 at the outside. -Or maybe just thru the warranty period. Those crimped terminals have been exposed to thousands, perhaps millions, of temperature changes and heatings due to current flow and ambient temperature changes. Every time current flows or the metal heats up they expand and contract and the wire expands and contracts at a different rate than the connector body. This tends to loosen the connection which creates a higher resistance and more heat. The higher the temperature the more the metals expand and react with atmospheric and environmental contaminants which produces corrosion. Corrosion causes an increase in resistance which produces more heat in a vicious cycle. These electrical systems are OLD! Tiny amounts of corrosion can cause the engine gages to malfunction. The voltage drops in wiring connections cause the headlights, turn signals, and other lights to be dim.

The only "cure" for this aging process is to disassemble the connectors and wiring harnesses. Every crimp and connection has to be examined, cleaned, re-crimped, and soldered. Some may have to be replaced. Solder any replacements. When the wiring connectors are reassembled coat the contact surfaces with silicone dielectric grease, the same stuff that is used on spark plug boots. This helps to seal out environmental contaminants, moisture, and oxygen from the connections. They will still make metal to metal contact. Very dilute muriatic acid will clean electrical connections just rinse very well. Even toilet bowl cleaner etc will work if it has acid in it.

For high temperature connections like headlights and blower motor resistor connections use high temperature connectors available from appliance repair shops. They use them for wire connections to heating elements. The standard crimp connections found in stores will not last long with the heat exposure in these connections. You can solder those crimp terminals with silver solder also. Silicone dielectric will boil off of these connections but I sometimes use it anyway.

Crazy Dash Gages:
--------------------
I do believe that we must realize these instrument systems are 25-30 years old and were never designed to operate more than 10 years at the outside. The instruments operate on a very small amount of current and low average voltages so any amount of oxidation on any of the connections will cause them to read wrong. To make the Ford gages read properly for many years to come all you have to do is clean ALL of the connections and protect them from corrosion and oxidation with a little silicone dielectric grease. Once you have done this they will operate great!

The Instrument Panel Voltage Regulator (IPVR) is hard to check since it is just a thermal "flasher" unit just like a HD turn signal flasher. The output voltage goes to 12V and ground in a pulse fashion. Supposedly it averages out to 5V but it takes an O-scope to see the pulses and average the voltage. If the IPVR has a bad ground it will supply full battery voltage to the gages causing them to peg to the right at times, sometimes continuously. This is the most common failure mode. Clean the connection as described below and use a star washer under the IPVR retaining screw to help maintain pressure on the joint. Eventually the plastic will creep and the joint will lose contact again tho.

The flex circuit on the back of the instrument cluster can be cleaned with a variety of methods. Remove the flex circuit and very gently brush the contact surfaces with a fiberglass spot abrasive brush found with the touch up paint at the parts store or some people use a regular #2 pencil eraser. Very gentle cleaning is required, if you remove too much copper the circuit is ruined. Use a damp paper towel to clean up the dust afterward. Coat the contact surfaces with a thin layer of silicone dielectric grease and reassemble the panel.

Ordinary crimp connections can be cleaned with brake cleaner then dipped in a dilute (1 part in 10) solution of muriatic acid available from the hardware store. Rinse the connector thoroughly in running tap water. Blow out with compressed air or blot dry with a paper towel. Solder the connection. If the connection has been properly cleaned solder will wick into the joint. This will not work with a connection that is obviously overheated or corroded. Replace those connectors.

 

This method was contributed by member: theonlybull

What I do, is jack one tire up, mark it, then mark the driveshaft. Now one person turns the one rear tire 20 times, and the other person counts the driveshaft rotations. Then divide the resulting turns of the driveshaft by 10. If you count 35, then you have 3.50 gears..

Doing it this way will let you tell the difference between 3.00, and 3.10 gears.

 

Calculators:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/calculat.../p-tire_sizes/
https://www.ford-trucks.com/calculat...php/p-mph_rpm/
https://www.ford-trucks.com/calculat...ll_gear_ratio/
More Calculators:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/calculators/index.php

Formulas for MPH RPM gears & tires:
------------------------------------------
mph = (rpm x tire diameter) / (gear ratio x 336)

rpm = (mph x gear ratio x 336) / tire daimeter

With OD, rpm = [(mph x gear ratio x 336) / tire daimeter] / O.D. ratio
Example: rpm = [(60 x 3.07 x336) / 31.5] / 1.20 = 1637
-This OD formula added to list-

gear ratio = (rpm x tire diameter) / (mph x 336)

tire diameter = (mph x gear ratio x 336) / rpm

Formulas for tire size & their effect:
---------------------------------------------
effective ratio = (old tire diameter / new tire diameter) x original ratio

actual mph = (new tire diameter / old tire diameter) x actual mph


More info:
====================
RUNNING TIRE DIAMETER IS CLOSE TO THE FULL DIA OF AN INFLATED TIRE
THE STATIC LOADED RADIUS IS MUCH SHORTER THAN THE FULL RADIUS...
USE THE FULL DIAMETER OF THE TIRE MINUS A LITTLE...

TIRE DIA = [((SECTION WIDTH * 2) * (ASPECT RATIO%)) / 24.5] + (WHEEL DIA)
Examples: [(235 * 2 * .75)/24.5] + 15 FOR A 235/75R15
265/75R16 YIELDS => 32.2 DIA W/3.07 = 1934@60 & 2256@70

TO ESTIMATE PROPER PERFORMANCE GEAR RATIO = 0.12 * TIRE DIA
TO ESTIMATE PROPER ECONOMY GEAR RATIO = 0.096 * TIRE DIA

ENGINE RPM @ 60 MPH:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
-----,------------------ TIRE DIAMETER (INCHES) ----------------------
RATIO|.26....27....28....29....30....31....32....3 3....34....35....36....38....40
-----|-----------------------------------------------------------------
2.73 | 2117 2038 1966 1898 1835 1775 1720 1668 1619 1572 1529 1448 1376
2.90 | 2249 2165 2088 2016 1949 1886 1827 1772 1720 1670 1624 1539 1462
3.07 | 2380 2292 2210 2134 2063 1996 1934 1875 1820 1768 1719 1629 1547
3.21 | 2489 2397 2311 2232 2157 2088 2022 1961 1903 1849 1798 1703 1618
3.31 | 2567 2471 2383 2301 2224 2153 2085 2022 1963 1907 1854 1756 1668
3.40 | 2636 2539 2448 2364 2285 2211 2142 2077 2016 1958 1904 1804 1714
3.54 | 2745 2643 2549 2461 2379 2302 2230 2163 2099 2039 1982 1878 1784
3.73 | 2892 2785 2686 2593 2507 2426 2350 2279 2212 2148 2089 1979 1880
3.90 | 3024 2912 2808 2711 2621 2536 2457 2383 2312 2246 2184 2069 1966
4.09 | 3171 3054 2945 2843 2748 2660 2577 2499 2425 2356 2290 2170 2061
4.56 | 3536 3406 3283 3170 3064 2965 2873 2786 2704 2627 2554 2419 2298
4.88 | 3784 3644 3514 3392 3279 3174 3074 2981 2894 2811 2733 2589 2460
5.12 | 3970 3823 3686 3559 3441 3330 3226 3128 3036 2949 2867 2716 2580
==============================================

 

Ford Engine Torque Values:
-For reference, please verify before use.
=====================================

260, 289, 302
------------------------------
Main cap bolts 60-70 ft.-lbs.
Outer main cap bolts, 35-40 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts 19-24 ft.-lbs. (40-45 ft.-lbs. for 289 HP Boss 302)
Cylinder head bolts 65-72 ft.-lbs.
Rocker arms 17-23 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts 23-25 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 23-28 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cam thrust plate bolts 8-10 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolts 70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts 12-15 ft.-lbs.

351W
--------------------------------
Main cap bolts 95-105 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts 90-100 ft.-lbs.
Rocker arms 17-23 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts 23-25 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 23-28 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cam thrust plate bolts 8-10 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts 12-15 ft.-lbs.

351C, 351M, 400
---------------------------------------
Main cap bolts 95-105 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs. (45-50 ft.-lbs. for Boss 351C)
Cylinder head bolts(follow factory torque sequence) 105 ft.-lbs. (125 ft.-lbs.
for Boss 351C)
Rocker arms (non-adjustable) 18-22 ft.-lbs.
5/16 in. intake manifold bolts 21-25 ft.-lbs.
3/8 in. intake manifold bolts 28-33 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 25 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cam thrust plate bolts 9-12 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts 12-18 ft.-lbs.

429-460
-----------------------------------
Maincap bolts 95-105 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts 140 ft.-lbs.
Rocker arms (non-adjustable) 18-22 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts 25-30 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 25 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts 12-18 ft.-lbs.

360, 390, 406, 427, 428 FE
-----------------------------------------
Main cap bolts 95-105 ft.-lbs.
Crossbolts for 406 and 427 40 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs. (53-58 ft.-lbs. for 406 and 427)
Cylinder head bolts 80-90 ft.-lbs. (100-110 ft.-lbs. for 1963-67 427)
Rocker arm shaft bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts 32-35 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 12-15 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts 12-15 ft.-lbs.
====================================

Please, if anyone finds an error let a moderator know so it can be corrected.