1973-1979: FAQ's, Tips & Tricks, Projects, and FORUM INFORMATION, -PLEASE READ!
Please use descriptive titles for your posts.
The generic "Help me" type title while "cute" is of no help to other users trying to identify posts they may have knowledge about.
============================== Please post all of the information about your truck!
We assume the make is Ford
-At least the basics please!
And any other information you think might help, -we are not mind readers.
=============================== PLEASE post only ONE question per topic! Multiple questions in the same thread add confusion.
=============================== This is the 1973-1979 Full Size Truck Forum. We talk about general questions regarding the F-150 thru 350 and heavy duty trucks because some systems are similar.
This site has specific forums for major parts of the vehicle like:
-Transmission, Differential, Axle, and Transfer case
-Fuel system and Carb
-Electrics/wiring...etc etc. -Check out the list of forums.
If your question ONLY deals with a major part of the vehicle, like the ones above, put it in that respective forum. The 73-79 truck forum is for general questions about parts of the truck. A question like "what kind of heads should I put on my engine" has nothing to do with the rest of the truck, it only deals with the engine, so it goes in the proper engine forum.
================================ FTE also hasCLASSIFIED ADSfor buying and selling vehicles and parts.
================================ To Experienced Users! If you see a post that you think might not belong, click the button, leave a message, and we will take care of it.[/B] If you have any questions or comments, please contact a Moderator privately.
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=================================== Other Useful Information:
=================================== See 73-9 Completed Project Trucks Here: <== This is where you post about completing a project!!! http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/94...o-replies.html
=================================== Tips and Tricks for 73-9 Trucks! <== Post your truck tips here! http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/36...nd-tricks.html
=================================== Tips and tricks for the 351C 351M and 400 Engines: <== Post your 335 Engine tips here! http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/50...es-motors.html
=================================== Automotive Calculators: http://www.ford-trucks.com/calculators/index.php
=================================== Automotive Technical Articles & Information: http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/
=================================== Site announcements: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum74/
=================================== Site Questions: http://www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html http://www.ford-trucks.com/support/open.php http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/faq.php
Please use the CLASSIFIED ADS and please use PM/email for those inquiries.
-No For Sale AD's...
-No "I have that part... E-mail Me"...
-No "How much do you want for it?"...
...Posts of any kind!
If you NEED a part you may post a Want Ad. Please ask for PM/email replies. Buy/sell/trade conversations are not allowed. Post enuf information so you don't get too many questions overflowing your IN box. Make sure your PM/email works. Send yourself a message if in doubt.
Tru<! >ck Values can be estimated from information found in the classifieds here as well as local "Auto Trader" type magazines.
You can also find some reference prices on the NADA site under the "classic" section.
More companies to check: Tru<! >ck Trader Online and Hemmings
If you are looking for an eBay "value" watch eBay for a while for similar trucks. Only you can evaluate your truck with respect to other trucks that are listed.
If you want a solid value take it to a couple of professional vehicle appraisers. They know exactly what to look for and can give an accurate value. We can only give wild guesses. The appraiser can see oil leaks, smoke, bad paint, rust, hear noises, etc etc...
Pa<! >rts Values can best be determined from the Classifieds, eBay, or calling salvage yards.
Manual methods for old folks:
actual mph = 3600 / seconds per mile
speedo error percent =
difference between actual and indicated speed / actual speed x 100
indicated distance =
odometer reading at finish - odometer reading at start
odo error percent =
difference between actual and indicated distances / actual distance x 100
Seconds to travel ONE measured mile:
Time= Actual road speed
NOTE- Time your vehicle over a 10 mile distance for ease and accuracy.
Speedometer gear replacement:
REMOVE the original driven gear.
Ts = Number of teeth on service driven gear.
To = Number of teeth on original driven gear.
Va = Actual vehicle speed.
Vi = Indicated vehicle speed.
VSS = Vehicle Speed Sensor.
NOTE: Design accuracy is: -2/+5 mph at 30 and 60 mph
(-3/+8 km/h at 50 and 100 km/h).
NOTE: Use one of the following formulas:
With Va, Vi, and To known, calculate new number of driven rear teeth.
Ts = (Vi x To)/Va
Ts = (To x new tire revolutions per mile)/(old tire revolutions per mile)
Round to whole number, dropping fractions less than .6, and rounding up if
fraction is .6 or higher.
VIN decoders and information can be found in any Chiltons, Haynes, or OEM service manuals also.
The VIN number can be found on the ratings plate tag on the driver side door. It can also be found on the certification label. It is also found on the top of the right hand frame rail usually somewhere on the front half. There is no way to tell anyone exactly where on the frame rail it can be found.
The ratings plate information is the rest of those letters and numbers on the door plate. The ratings are also found on the certification label.
The vehicle certification label is attached to the rear face of the drivers door or door pillar. The certification label has the VIN and ratings info.
On some models there is a rating plate on the right side of the cowl under the hood. Some Bronco models have the plate on the inside of the glove compartment door.
Please support the suppliers that make this site possible:
See the listing of supporters at the left or top of the page or use this link: More Pa<!>rts and Stuff from our spon<! >sors!
Please do not post links to their competitors since they are not paying for this FREE site.
Please remember -From the legal notices-:
"7. You may not post links to, promote or solicit services that compete with Ford Truck Enthusiasts."
List of LINKS with all sorts of good information.
<![url]http://www.waytekwire.com -minimum order quantities apply.>
The basic definition seems to be:
A Hiboy is a Ford truck that came from the factory as having the following:
- Built from 1967 thru 1977.5.
- Divorced transfer case.
Trucks that are NOT considered a Hiboy are:
- Any truck built after mid-1977. It goes by Consecutive Build Number in the VIN# anything built starting Y80001 is a 77 1/2. **
- Anything other than an F-250.
There will always be a couple very oddball exceptions but, for the most part, this is it.
Front axle choices in the Hiboy were either the 8 lug Dana 44 or the old style low-slung pinion Dana 60 (commonly referred to as the Dana 50). Engine choices were either the 6 cylinder or 360 2 bbl. Steering was either manual or power ram assist.
-Basic definition provided by user: BigBuddy
** VIN information provided by Dennis AKA Mil1ion.
It has been pointed out that the 300, 351M, and 400 were the engines available in the 77 model year.
Always use a filter in the return line when you service or replace any PS system component. This means replacing a line or the pump etc. The source of most PS system failures is microscopic dirt particles in the system.
The dirt particles circulate and continue to erode parts, seals, bearings, pumps, etc which makes more microscopic dirt particles which circulate and...
The noise pumps make is usually from erosion from dirt or air in the system that allows high pressure fluid to flow back thru the valve plate in the pump. Yes, air does erode the valve plate in the pump. The bubbles knock tiny chunks of metal loose that makes those nasty abrasive dirt particles.
Use the following filter in your PS system AND your automatic transmission return line.
Wix transmission/PS filter #58964
200 psi working, pressure relieved, magnetic
Ford equivalent filter kit #XC3Z-7B155-AA
filter alone #XC3P-7B155-BA
Change filter yearly or ~12,000 miles
To change the PS fluid or flush the system:
Pull the return line (plug the pump port). Direct it into a bucket. Remove the PS belt and turn the pump by hand. Keep the reservoir full. Have someone move the steering wheel lock-lock. Keep adding fluid and turning the pump until the fluid runs clean. Put the filter above in the return line. Reconnect the return line and fill the reservoir to the mark with fluid. Replace the PS belt and run the engine for 1 minute turning the wheels lock-lock. Turn the engine off and let it sit for 30 minutes. Check the reservoir for bubbles. Restart the engine and watch for foaming/bubbles. If they appear stop the engine and wait another 10-30 minutes for the reservoir to clear up. Start the engine again and repeat.
If the PS fluid still foam after two-three repetitions you probably have a bad pump with a groove in the valve plate allowing high pressure fluid to leak past the pump. This usually causes most power steering pump noise. Pump replacement is necessary. It has been my experience that most reman pumps are junk, somebody else's noisy pump just repainted with the bearings and seals replaced. You probably have a better chance of getting a good noise free pump in the junkyard. Remember, contrary to popular belief, and most parts store and junkyard clerks, a PS pump does not make a lot of noise. Normally they can't be heard over other engine noise. Noisy pumps are defective!
Last edited by LxMan1; 06-08-2007 at 12:54 PM.
Reason: corrected 1 piece of info.
Next get a Chilton's as you gain experience and need more information.
When you really need to know your vehicle, get the OEM service manuals, they are available on CD from some suppliers and old paper manuals are sometimes available at swap meets, ebay, or at used book sellers. Some used book sellers specialize in automotive books.
If you only need wiring diagrams:
Some suppliers have the OEM wiring diagrams for under $8.00 on CD or the complete service manuals for about $55.
-Or check with AutoZone, look under "Repairs" for generic diagrams.
Vacuum diagrams can be found at AutoZone's website also.
Pull the headlight **** to the "ON" position, reach your arm up under the dash and there is a button on top of the switch assy that you have to push down on. When the button goes down pull the **** and shaft out as one piece. The shaft slides out easy. Sometimes you have to wiggle the shaft a little to get the button to depress.
Some vehicles may have been retrofitted with a newer style switch that takes a small hook to release a catch and the **** comes off the stem.
Considering the FACT there are so many variables regarding fuel economy it would be hard to get a specific answer.
Things to consider:
1)Quality of Fuel
3)Tune & Efficiency of Engine (camshaft)
6)Topography where you are driving
7)How much city/how much highway driving
8)Gear ratio & size of tires
9)Weight of the vehicle
11)Vehicle design (drag)
12)Clean air filter
14)2WD -vs- 4WD
Just to name a few.
I drive a 78 pickup with a well tuned 429 engine,at an altitude of 3400 ft above sea level,with normal weight on the truck with a canopy,tires inflated to spec,using premium fuel,2.75 rear,C6 Trans, With my foot on the pedal like there was a egg under it, in Canada in a city that the downtown is located in a valley.