1973-1979: FAQ's, Tips & Tricks, Projects, and FORUM INFORMATION, -PLEASE READ!

[Torque1st]

Check out this gallery by user BB.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...1&albumid=1232

REMEMBER!
----------------
There are TWO sources of power to the COIL:
1-From the solenoid "I" terminal while cranking -or- directly from the ignition switch. I feel the solenoid terminal was the better system.
2-From the ignition switch thru the ballast resistor wire while running.
There are TWO sources of power to the IGNITION MODULE:
1-From the ignition switch during cranking for the timing retard circuit.*
2-From the ignition switch directly to the module while running.

*-The timing retard circuit greatly reduces the wear and tear on the starter by reducing the current draw required during cranking. It also increases the cranking speed. This can mean the difference between starting and not starting particularly on a warm engine.

[Torque1st]

There is a tech article on troubleshooting lights in the tech article section that can be found in the "Articles" menu at the top of the page. Check the articles out ==>
Turn and Stop Lamp Diagnosis


For many of the crazy electrical problems on these old trucks the problem can be traced to bad grounds. Remember it takes a complete circuit in order for electricity to flow. A bulb or socket may no longer be grounded due to corrosion. An entire fender may not be grounded due to rust. Check the body and frame ground points and cables, Many aftermarket battery cables do not have a ground tab on them that was used to ground the body and frame like the OEM cables did. Clean all connections to bare metal and coat them with silicone dielectric grease. Use internal or external tooth lockwashers as appropriate to help maintain electrical contact. The lockwasher provides a little "spring" to the connection that will help maintain electrical contact during heat/cool cycles. Make sure the body panels, cab, frame, and engine are grounded.

A battery cable that looks good can have corrosion between the cable wire strands and the terminal body. I have been making all of my old battery cables from those lead free terminals and welding cable or standard battery cables. I cut the factory ends off cables and make my own connections. Most replacement battery cables have very thin crimped terminals on the end with a larger hole designed to go over the typical 3/8" Chevy style terminal studs. There is very little wire left when that large hole is punched thru. Proper terminals with a 5/16" hole can be purchased from hardware stores, welding shops, or even "home box" stores. The good terminals can be crimped on and soldered properly. Some electrical or welding shops will crimp on terminals for a fee.

Most of the wire terminals and connections in these trucks are crimped at the factory. Factory crimping is a good process but failures can occur. The electrical systems in these trucks were designed to last about 5 years, maybe 10 at the outside. -Or maybe just thru the warranty period. Those crimped terminals have been exposed to thousands, perhaps millions, of temperature changes and heatings due to current flow and ambient temperature changes. Every time current flows or the metal heats up they expand and contract and the wire expands and contracts at a different rate than the connector body. This tends to loosen the connection which creates a higher resistance and more heat. The higher the temperature the more the metals expand and react with atmospheric and environmental contaminants which produces corrosion. Corrosion causes an increase in resistance which produces more heat in a vicious cycle. These electrical systems are OLD! Tiny amounts of corrosion can cause the engine gages to malfunction. The voltage drops in wiring connections cause the headlights, turn signals, and other lights to be dim.

The only "cure" for this aging process is to disassemble the connectors and wiring harnesses. Every crimp and connection has to be examined, cleaned, re-crimped, and soldered. Some may have to be replaced. Solder any replacements. When the wiring connectors are reassembled coat the contact surfaces with silicone dielectric grease, the same stuff that is used on spark plug boots. This helps to seal out environmental contaminants, moisture, and oxygen from the connections. They will still make metal to metal contact. Very dilute muriatic acid will clean electrical connections just rinse very well. Even toilet bowl cleaner etc will work if it has acid in it.

For high temperature connections like headlights and blower motor resistor connections use high temperature connectors available from appliance repair shops. They use them for wire connections to heating elements. The standard crimp connections found in stores will not last long with the heat exposure in these connections. You can solder those crimp terminals with silver solder also. Silicone dielectric will boil off of these connections but I sometimes use it anyway.

Crazy Dash Gages:
--------------------
I do believe that we must realize these instrument systems are 25-30 years old and were never designed to operate more than 10 years at the outside. The instruments operate on a very small amount of current and low average voltages so any amount of oxidation on any of the connections will cause them to read wrong. To make the Ford gages read properly for many years to come all you have to do is clean ALL of the connections and protect them from corrosion and oxidation with a little silicone dielectric grease. Once you have done this they will operate great!

The Instrument Panel Voltage Regulator (IPVR) is hard to check since it is just a thermal "flasher" unit just like a HD turn signal flasher. The output voltage goes to 12V and ground in a pulse fashion. Supposedly it averages out to 5V but it takes an O-scope to see the pulses and average the voltage. If the IPVR has a bad ground it will supply full battery voltage to the gages causing them to peg to the right at times, sometimes continuously. This is the most common failure mode. Clean the connection as described below and use a star washer under the IPVR retaining screw to help maintain pressure on the joint. Eventually the plastic will creep and the joint will lose contact again tho.

The flex circuit on the back of the instrument cluster can be cleaned with a variety of methods. Remove the flex circuit and very gently brush the contact surfaces with a fiberglass spot abrasive brush found with the touch up paint at the parts store or some people use a regular #2 pencil eraser. Very gentle cleaning is required, if you remove too much copper the circuit is ruined. Use a damp paper towel to clean up the dust afterward. Coat the contact surfaces with a thin layer of silicone dielectric grease and reassemble the panel.

Ordinary crimp connections can be cleaned with brake cleaner then dipped in a dilute (1 part in 10) solution of muriatic acid available from the hardware store. Rinse the connector thoroughly in running tap water. Blow out with compressed air or blot dry with a paper towel. Solder the connection. If the connection has been properly cleaned solder will wick into the joint. This will not work with a connection that is obviously overheated or corroded. Replace those connectors.

[Torque1st]

This method was contributed by member: theonlybull

What I do, is jack one tire up, mark it, then mark the driveshaft. Now one person turns the one rear tire 20 times, and the other person counts the driveshaft rotations. Then divide the resulting turns of the driveshaft by 10. If you count 35, then you have 3.50 gears..

Doing it this way will let you tell the difference between 3.00, and 3.10 gears.

[Torque1st]

Here is a great thread with all kinds of tips and tricks posted from forum users. If you use a tip or find it useful make sure you give the user some positive feedback (use the ) and a thanks for the information.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=364940


FTE also has CLASSIFIED ADS for buying and selling vehicles and parts.

[Mil1ion]

Great News For 76-79 Truck Owners

Thanks to a long time FTE member (tetraruby) I have recently come into possession of a complete set of the FORD Original Dealership Em ission diag rams & en gine illust rations for all Truck eng ines (including cars) for the years 1977 - 1979.
It also has a few 1976 Tr uck dia grams.

*Note: This set is more comprehensive than the Autozone site.

Of course having the engine identity label information would be an asset,they will only be available by request as the space they would take up would be massive.
I would expect to send these privately unless the calibration number becomes quite popular then It will be in my gallery

[Torque1st]

Calculators:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/calculato.../p-tire_sizes/
http://www.ford-trucks.com/calculato...php/p-mph_rpm/
http://www.ford-trucks.com/calculato...ll_gear_ratio/
More Calculators:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/calculators/index.php

Formulas for MPH RPM gears & tires:
------------------------------------------
mph = (rpm x tire diameter) / (gear ratio x 336)

rpm = (mph x gear ratio x 336) / tire daimeter

With OD, rpm = [(mph x gear ratio x 336) / tire daimeter] / O.D. ratio
Example: rpm = [(60 x 3.07 x336) / 31.5] / 1.20 = 1637
-This OD formula added to list-

gear ratio = (rpm x tire diameter) / (mph x 336)

tire diameter = (mph x gear ratio x 336) / rpm

Formulas for tire size & their effect:
---------------------------------------------
effective ratio = (old tire diameter / new tire diameter) x original ratio

actual mph = (new tire diameter / old tire diameter) x actual mph


More info:
====================
RUNNING TIRE DIAMETER IS CLOSE TO THE FULL DIA OF AN INFLATED TIRE
THE STATIC LOADED RADIUS IS MUCH SHORTER THAN THE FULL RADIUS...
USE THE FULL DIAMETER OF THE TIRE MINUS A LITTLE...

TIRE DIA = [((SECTION WIDTH * 2) * (ASPECT RATIO%)) / 24.5] + (WHEEL DIA)
Examples: [(235 * 2 * .75)/24.5] + 15 FOR A 235/75R15
265/75R16 YIELDS => 32.2 DIA W/3.07 = 1934@60 & 2256@70

TO ESTIMATE PROPER PERFORMANCE GEAR RATIO = 0.12 * TIRE DIA
TO ESTIMATE PROPER ECONOMY GEAR RATIO = 0.096 * TIRE DIA

ENGINE RPM @ 60 MPH:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
-----,------------------ TIRE DIAMETER (INCHES) ----------------------
RATIO|.26....27....28....29....30....31....32....3 3....34....35....36....38....40
-----|-----------------------------------------------------------------
2.73 | 2117 2038 1966 1898 1835 1775 1720 1668 1619 1572 1529 1448 1376
2.90 | 2249 2165 2088 2016 1949 1886 1827 1772 1720 1670 1624 1539 1462
3.07 | 2380 2292 2210 2134 2063 1996 1934 1875 1820 1768 1719 1629 1547
3.21 | 2489 2397 2311 2232 2157 2088 2022 1961 1903 1849 1798 1703 1618
3.31 | 2567 2471 2383 2301 2224 2153 2085 2022 1963 1907 1854 1756 1668
3.40 | 2636 2539 2448 2364 2285 2211 2142 2077 2016 1958 1904 1804 1714
3.54 | 2745 2643 2549 2461 2379 2302 2230 2163 2099 2039 1982 1878 1784
3.73 | 2892 2785 2686 2593 2507 2426 2350 2279 2212 2148 2089 1979 1880
3.90 | 3024 2912 2808 2711 2621 2536 2457 2383 2312 2246 2184 2069 1966
4.09 | 3171 3054 2945 2843 2748 2660 2577 2499 2425 2356 2290 2170 2061
4.56 | 3536 3406 3283 3170 3064 2965 2873 2786 2704 2627 2554 2419 2298
4.88 | 3784 3644 3514 3392 3279 3174 3074 2981 2894 2811 2733 2589 2460
5.12 | 3970 3823 3686 3559 3441 3330 3226 3128 3036 2949 2867 2716 2580
==============================================

[Torque1st]

Ford Engine Torque Values:
-For reference, please verify before use.
=====================================

260, 289, 302
------------------------------
Main cap bolts 60-70 ft.-lbs.
Outer main cap bolts, 35-40 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts 19-24 ft.-lbs. (40-45 ft.-lbs. for 289 HP Boss 302)
Cylinder head bolts 65-72 ft.-lbs.
Rocker arms 17-23 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts 23-25 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 23-28 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cam thrust plate bolts 8-10 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolts 70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts 12-15 ft.-lbs.

351W
--------------------------------
Main cap bolts 95-105 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts 90-100 ft.-lbs.
Rocker arms 17-23 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts 23-25 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 23-28 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cam thrust plate bolts 8-10 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts 12-15 ft.-lbs.

351C, 351M, 400
---------------------------------------
Main cap bolts 95-105 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs. (45-50 ft.-lbs. for Boss 351C)
Cylinder head bolts(follow factory torque sequence) 105 ft.-lbs. (125 ft.-lbs.
for Boss 351C)
Rocker arms (non-adjustable) 18-22 ft.-lbs.
5/16 in. intake manifold bolts 21-25 ft.-lbs.
3/8 in. intake manifold bolts 28-33 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 25 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cam thrust plate bolts 9-12 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts 12-18 ft.-lbs.

429-460
-----------------------------------
Maincap bolts 95-105 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts 140 ft.-lbs.
Rocker arms (non-adjustable) 18-22 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts 25-30 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 25 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts 12-18 ft.-lbs.

360, 390, 406, 427, 428 FE
-----------------------------------------
Main cap bolts 95-105 ft.-lbs.
Crossbolts for 406 and 427 40 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs. (53-58 ft.-lbs. for 406 and 427)
Cylinder head bolts 80-90 ft.-lbs. (100-110 ft.-lbs. for 1963-67 427)
Rocker arm shaft bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts 32-35 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 12-15 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts 12-15 ft.-lbs.
====================================

Please, if anyone finds an error let a moderator know so it can be corrected.

[Torque1st]

Vacuum Switches:
================
A 2-port PVS is simply a toggle switch. As soon as the coolant gets to a high
enough temperature it switches on and allows vacuum to be drawn through the
switch body. The inverse is true too, it keeps a circuit turned off as long as
the temperature is too cold. It's usually used to control an EGR circuit (but
not always).

A 3-port PVS is basically two toggles controlling one circuit. That is, when the
engine is cold, the top port ('1') is connected to the middle port ('D'). When
the coolant gets hot enough it switches over so that the bottom port ('2') is
connected to the middle port ('D'). The commonest use to is an cold-start or
overheat switch. With the overheat switch, the top port is connected to ported
vacuum, the middle to the distributor vacuum advance, and the bottom port to
manifold vac. When the engine gets too hot, the switch flips to manifold vacuum
and you get more advance so the water pump and fan move faster and the engine
cools down. You could use it to replace a 2-port toggle too. Cap the top port
and hook the bottom port to a vacuum source and the middle to whatever it is
your controlling and the circuit will stay closed until the engine reaches the
right temperature.

The 4-port PVS is essentially two toggles ganged to the same temperature. The
top two ports are connected together when the engine is below the switch
temperature. When you reach the activation temperature, the top two ports are
disconnected from each other and the bottom two ports are connected together.

The switches are different colors for different switches:
Green: switches over when above 70° (F° not C°)
Pink or 'natural' (?): 90°F
Black: 100°F
Blue or 'dichromatic' or 'plain': 133°F
Yellow or gray: 155°F
Red: 245°F

The colors apply regardless of number of ports on the switch. NB: the switches
aren't exactly calibrated, and there's a temperature range around the indicated
temperature where the switch will be halfway between the two states.

Notice, this information was collected from many sources and there may be errors. It may be better than nothing tho but use at your own risk. -As usual if you find other information or errors please notify me and I will check it out. -Thanks!

[Torque1st]

Mounting bracket part numbers for 73-79 F-series:
==================================

6028 RH frame bracket
6029 LH frame bracket
6030 RH block bracket
6031 LH block bracket

FE 2WD: D4TZ-6028-B & D4TZ-6029-B
FE 4WD exc/Crewcab: C6TZ-6028-D & C6TZ-6029-F
FE 4WD Crewcab: D3TZ-6028-C & D3TZ-6029-B
302 2WD: D7TZ-6028-B & D7TZ-6029-B
302 4WD: not offerred
351W 2WD: not offerred
351W 4WD: not offerred
351M/400 2WD: D7TZ-6028-B & D7TZ-6029-B
351M/400 4WD: D8TZ-6028-C & D8TZ-6029-D or
D7TZ-6028-D & D8TZ-6029-A
460 2WD: D3TZ-6028-A, D3TZ-6029-A, D3TZ-6030-A, D3TZ-6031-A
460 4WD: not offerred

If anyone has additions or corrections please notify the moderator.

[Torque1st]

Calculators:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/calculato.../p-tire_sizes/

Tire section approx equivalents:
================================
195 = F = 7.75"

205 = G = 8.0"

215 = H = 8.5"

225 = J = 9.0"

235 = L = 9.25"

Old tire size data:
-------------------------

The 9.5 x 16.5 was 31" in diameter.
The 8.75 x 16.5 was 29.4" in diameter.

[Torque1st]

OEM Wheel ID Marking System:

Example- A585-547-48
A = Descriptive Use?
5 = 15" Wheel
85 = 8.5" Width Between Bead Seats
5 = #bolt Holes
47 = 4.75" Bolt Circle
48 = 4.8" Rear Wheel Offset (backside)

5 Lug Wheel Pattern Dimensions:
Dim Between Adjacent Studs - Bolt Circle
2.645 - 4.5
2.792 - 4.75
2.939 - 5.0
3.233 - 5.5

[IB_Tim]

Moderators please do not add nor subtract from this stickie at all, if you need to..... Contact me.