1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series TrucksDiscuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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Hey guys Im new to site and have been browsin for couple months, but got a question. Instead of spending the 1200 on a four inch lift whats the alternate route to get hieght. Something about superduty springs? dont understand the full concept. Can u you guys give the new guy a little advise. Thanks
Here is a compilation from a fellow FTE Super Duty spring lift GURU for the front and rear.
I am still gathering parts.......thanks ED aka F350 l
For the front it only takes a little bit of work, and over the years I have streamlined this process, and worked out some of the small bugs.
The leaf spring bushings are slightly larger than the original hanger, so grinding the bushing down is a reasonable solution. This only has to be done to the front of the spring. For the rear, I relaced the pivot bushings, and used an off the shelp toyota poly bushing used in 80's era 4x4's. These bushings had to be modified a little to fit, but worked perfectly.
By taking a small torch to the old bushings, they popped right out, and left a small metal insert in the pivot itself. I was able to leave this in there and not fight it to remove. This can be tough to remove while the pivot is still in the truck.
By taking about 10 thousandths off of the bushing itself, it went in with little trouble. This is almost a perfect fit. Then I lubed up the metal insert, and viola, it is the same width as the spring bushing, and a perfect fit.
Front end is done, and everything lines up.
Oh, if the leaf is equipped with a military wrap design, it may jave to be either cut or removed to fit the smaller hanger of the highboy. Later 78/9 bolt on hangers are larger and fit the military wrap leaf.
Longer front shackles will have to be made, and the new length should be right at the 5.75" mark. This will provide enough room for the spring to flex and keep the spring from hitting the frame. This has been a problem I have been working out over time. Quality material and thick steel has to be used here. Too small or thin and the shackle will flex.
For the rear, the popular thing to do is the shackle flip. Since this requires the removal of the rear hanger anyway, half of the work is already done. Now since the perfect donor hanger is to use the fixed hanger found at the front of the rear spring,this means that another hanger needs to be installed where this one was removed.
Step by step:
Remove both hangers, and throw the inverted rear hangers in trash.
Purchase, a longer hanger for the front of the rear spring. 1/2 ton, or 2wd hangers are longer and will provide more lift. Make sure that the width is the same as the spring. Chebby hangers can be used here too.
Align the 64" rear spring so the axle is centered in the wheel opening.
Install the newly purchased hanger in the front of the spring and attach to the frame.
Install the original front hanger in the very rear of the spring and hang the shackle from this. Bolt up and verify that all hangers are level. Use a quality fastener here.
This will net some pretty serious lift and much will depend on the rear spring that you use. This 64" spring is easy to find in the salvage yard, and will cost way less than new springs.
By performing this upgrade, the cost stays low, and you get new style springs that not only ride well, but does not sacrifice payload capacities.
I am telling you, this system works and works well. Not expensive either. My front leafs ran about 500 bucks for the pair, a great friend gave me a set of leafs (thanks again ChaseTruck754) and my hangers ran about 40 bucks from the salvage yard. This clears 40"rubber, and flexes like crazy.
Rides well, I mean extremely well, and I still tow a car hauler with a rather large 1 ton truck with this truck.
When looking for spring hangers, don't limit yourself to just this era of ford trucks. They are limited in numbers at the salvage yards and just try to find a new one at a dealership. That being said, you can use a later model spring hanger, the Ranger does not care. I suggested that one look into chabby hangers, heck, if you are going to remove the spring from a 2000 plus silverado, grab the front hanger too. Use this on the front of the spring, and then use the factory ford one on the very back of the spring for the shackle flip. This is a very inexpensive way to lift a vehicle and still use the comfort and versatility of the newer spring.
8" BDS front springs from a 99 to 04 "gas" Super Duty
Extended my front shackles, they now measure 6 inches from center to center
Custom front shock mounts (17" travel front shocks)
Stainless braided front brake lines
Crossover steering (Dana60F) and power steering conversion using saginaw 16:1 box
U bolt flip
Stock 64" long 3500 series chebby silverado rear leaf
2001 chebby silverado 1500 series front spring hanger mounted lower to provide more lift
Stock Ford front spring hanger installed in the very rear to accomodate shackle flip
Relocated shock mount to accomodate 14" travel shocks
Stainless steel brake line
AWESOME thanks Workaholic sounds killer. On my way to sucess. So questions for now are what did you do for extending your shackles, next kinda lost on the steering set up and the power steering, also what do u mean by u bolt flip?? Then where does the shock mount end up when relocate in the rear, also what do you mean for mounting the spring hanger lower? Got to say man thanks for taking time and helping me out. Josh
I have not done it yet just compiled HIS info and am trying to get the parts together.
Extending the front spring/rear shackles (flat bars between frame and springs) that bolt to the frame and the springs, means making new ones all together, that are longer.
Steering set up is a "crossover" after market parts are purchased for that, search FTE or google crossover. Means you are relocating the tie rod over the axle/springs so it does not get damaged when rock crawling.
Steering up grade from old highboy sys (ram style) to a 79 sys. Search FTE for a thread on it.
U bolt flip, is just that on the front axle. It gets the ends of the front u-bolts outa harms way when 4 wheeling by changing the way they mount. I used a rear spring pack top plate.
See attached pic the first one they are both in the factory position with the threaded ends/nuts below the axle, in the next pic I have flipped the passenger one, understand?
The shock mount in the rear does not go away or move, the distance between them increases.
"The spring hanger lower" means the rear set of springs, front spring hanger (the bracket riveted to the frame that the leaf spring bolts too) replace them with taller chebby ones.
Did not mean to confuse you, I just understand the wording. ALOT of FTE/google read read read google/FTE some more. You can go on the 4x4 and Off Road forum on here and get more threads about all this stuff.
Alright man on to my search for parts, got alot of yards around here and some buddies i can turn too. So whats gonna be the hardest thing to find, do you think. Also do I got to do crossover at the same time as lift?? Or can i lift and get wheels on there and then do crossover next upgrade.
So doing more research and reading. Picked up 64" leafs and hangers. Looking for "bds" front ford leafs. Are those stock or aftermarket. Also doing the shackle flip in rear is required to acomadate the lift in front?? the only thing left is brake lines, front leafs and shock mounts, I think. Picked up 8" by 5/8" material to make shackles for front. I sure hope this will work out for me.
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