New guy needs help with Y Block Intake bolt sequence
Hello everybody. I recently inherited a 1957 F100 with the 272 Y block and three on the tree with overdrive. The truck sat in a barn for 8 or 9 years with the cooling system full of coolant. The water pump was rusted solid and there was some build up at the water inlet of the intake. I have a replacement water pump and inlet. I also had the radiator rebuilt. I removed the intake so that I could dip it in evapo-rust and also run evapo-rust through the block (that stuff works miracles by the way). I can't find any information on the sequence or torque specs for the intake bolts, can anyone help me or point me in the right direction? I would appreciate any help, this is my first Y Block.
26 pounds torque is what the linked site says and I don't find a chart of which bolt hole to start with etc. and the pattern to follow. Usually of course there is a suggested pattern to follow. I'm sure someone can give that to ya/I'd just be guessing but it would probably work OK, but don't want to give you bad advice.
I feel funny answering. I'm the worse mechanic here. I'm more of a fabrication/paint type guy, but I have wrenches. Just not too good at using them. And I do have a Yblock-a 312, but I've had some problems getting it to seal well because a previous owner milled the heads and didn't also mill the intake so I've got some work to do there haha. Oh well that's my problem. It should go easy for you. Kinda surprised no one has responded yet. There are plenty here who know this stuff well. They're probably asleep or?
Anyway you also might want to post this same question in the Forum listed here--just further down this list of topics--Its specifically for YBlock motors. These guys are quick on the motor answers.
1948 F-1 312Y,oem4spd,Holley 2150,Merc diff
Other projects: 48IH chopped&channeled,58F100 460 C6 4link pro street
I had a look at my 1957 Ford Car Shop Manual and for the V-8 (272/292) it says to:
"Using new gaskets, install the manifold. Align the holes in the manifold gaskets and manifold with the cylinder head tapped holes. Position the manifold clamps, install the manifold retaining bolts and nuts, and tighten them to 23-28 ft-lbs torque, working from from center to the ends."
1955 F-600/292Y/E4OD // D I S C L A I M E R: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I RAN OVER INTENTIONALLY!!!
2005 6.0L F-350 4x4
I have had my hands on Cessna, Northrup, Lockheed and McDonnell Douglas throttles. I still handle Boeing throttles and Convair (Consolidated Vultee).
Welcome to FTE,and to another Friend of the Y.There is a separate section of the site for Y-Block motors,that might be the best place to get that info.I do have the 1959 Service and Specification Book.It says this:
(Truck) Manifold to Cylinder Head Intake and Exhaust 23-38 Foot Pounds
It does not give a sequence,or at least I can't find it,but I'll look further.Meanwhile,see if you can post in the Y-Block section,there's some good guys in there also,and much better mechanics than me.
"Hey Ilya...you've got wire thingys touching other wire thingys...Hey
Ryan...Jeez Bobby...Ya got me there Ross...I agree with AX...Hi Ray...Number
Dummy will know...Hi Michael...Hi Steve....Tee hee hee.. Exactly Wayne...Hey
Anthony...Hey Kevin....Silly Boy...Hey John...Hey Dan... WOW! OYE!...OH
CRAP...just for giggles...GREAT JOB...Nice Work Tard!...takes a "womans
general rule of thumb- steel intake to steel heads not to much of a big deal. aluminum to steel, aluminum can warp if it is torqued wrong due to the heat and the fact that aluminum and steel have different melting points. start from the center work your way to the edge while moving in a circular pattern clockwise or counter clockwise. it doesn't matter either way. I built a 292 a few years ago useing this method with an aluminum intake and never had any problems with it. personally what I like to do, mainly because I'm a helicopter mechanic and I do it every day, is torque the bolts gradually. like do the sequence at say 10 ft lbs, the 15, then 20, and then the final 26 or whatever it is. do it this way and you won't have any leaks or warps.
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