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  #16  
Old 02-04-2011, 05:23 AM
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Does your truck have a sunroof?
The fuse for the door locks #22 also serves the roof opening panel.
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  #17  
Old 02-04-2011, 03:10 PM
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i pulled that fuse, and this morning my truck was dead.... so it isn't that one. I guess i have eliminated that one. I have an amp meter from a friend that i am going to use to test each fuse location tomorrow.
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  #18  
Old 02-04-2011, 08:46 PM
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It's easier to put the meter between the ground terminal on the battery and the ground cable and pull fuses till something changes.
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  #19  
Old 02-26-2011, 10:04 AM
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Subscribing ….did you ever find your problem, seems like I have the same issue with my 2004 Super Crew. It started when it sat for a week, went to go start it and nothing. I jumped it and it was fine. It happened again after just sitting for a day, I check the charging voltage using the edge and when it was running it was showing 14.2 volts. I had an optima red top that I had and put it in. No problems for a month, but I did noticed that I had a clicking sound coming from the right rear of the cab. It only happened on start-up a couple of times so I dint think anything of it. I just had to leave town again and had a friend go check on it. After another week the optima was dead, wouldn’t even turn over. I had him take brand new optima out of my Mustang and put it in. Started right up, and he let it run and checked the voltage and everything was good to go. I just got an email from him saying that he went to start it after sitting for another week and he couldn’t even unlock the doors using the keyless entry. He got the keys and again nothing dead as a door nail. So with this all being said is it from sitting or can there be something drawing the battery down? Would the Edge Evolution be causing the problem? I don’t know if it is a coincidence but has seemed to start doing this when I installed it. But then yet it has been sitting for a longer amount of time since the install too. Thanks for any help…
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  #20  
Old 02-26-2011, 10:14 AM
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Subscribing ….Did you ever find your problem? Seems like I have the same dead battery issue with my 2004 Super Crew. It started happening when it sat for a week, went to go start it and nothing. I jumped it and it was fine. It happened again after just sitting for a day, I check the charging voltage using the edge and when it was running it was showing 14.2 volts. I had an optima red top and put it in. No problems for a month, but I did noticed that I had a clicking sound coming from the right rear of the cab. It only happened on start-up a couple of times so I didnt think anything of it. I just had to leave town again and had a friend go check on it. After another week the optima was dead, wouldn’t even turn over. I had him take a brand new optima out of my mustang and put it in. Started right up, he let it run and checked the voltage and everything was good to go. I just got an email from him saying that he went to start it after sitting for another week and he couldn’t even unlock the doors using the keyless entry. He got the keys and again nothing dead as a door nail. So with this all being said is it from sitting or can there be something drawing the battery down? Would the Edge Evolution be causing the problem? I don’t know if it is a coincidence but it seemed to start doing this when I installed it. But then yet it has been sitting for a longer amount of time since the install too. Thanks for any help…
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  #21  
Old 02-26-2011, 11:28 PM
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Not to point out the obvious, but typically when people had dead battery issues, it was things like:

Not shutting the dome light off,

Leaving one of the map lights on and not realizing it.

Accesories such as GPS, plug in seat warmers, etc.

Or the door switch wouldnt work and would leave the domelight on.

Just saying to check the obvious before you spend hours trying to chase down a simple problem.

Otherwise you are on the right track with amp clamping the battery cable and seeing what you come up with. Keep in mind that sometimes the PCM wont go into "sleep" mode until 30 min or so has passed. So if you amp clamp it and you have more than .050 amps, be sure to wait 1/2 hour. If you still have more than .050 amps, then you have a problem. Also keep in mind the specification is more than .050 amps. If its jumping between .051 and .052, you probably dont have a problem.

Be aware of any aftermarket installed items as well such as remote starts, etc...
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  #22  
Old 03-07-2012, 10:26 PM
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Same Issue - Cheap fix

Same truck - same issue (2 days to drain) - I got 120,000 miles before this started happening - No issue if I turn the factory radio off before I exit the truck. I know it's not a good fix, but it works until I have enough time to do more troubleshooting and resolve the issue.
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  #23  
Old 03-08-2012, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshNHRA View Post
Using a multimeter, disconnect the positive cable from the battery, and place the meter in series with the battery. With everything off, your shoulndt have more the 25-35 milliamps of draw. If you do, find the fuse panal, and start pulling fuses until the draw drops to this spec. You can also remove the positive cable going to the altenator and see if the draw ill go down.
+ 1 save yourself some time and possibly being stranded and go through the proper procedure of diagnosing it.
The only thing I would have to add is after running your battery completely dead put it on my slow charger to charge it up instead of jump starting it and driving it your battery will get charged a lot deeper and your alternator will thank you for it.
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  #24  
Old 01-01-2014, 11:13 AM
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It really sucks when you search threads like these and there's no answer or repair to the problem
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  #25  
Old 01-01-2014, 01:16 PM
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I just had this problem last week. Battery kept dying over night had system tested at advanced all tested fine except the battery rated for 850cca was only pushing 630cca. So I bought a charger and charged and it kept dying so I replaced the battery and it was still dying. I also have an edge programmer and could see the alternator was charging sufficiently. So I started the process of testing for parasitic drain. It was drawing at the radio which over a year ago I installed one of those pie aux adapters so I removed it and problem solved. If you added any accessories I would start there, testing for drain is pretty easy. The only way to fix it is to find the draw and fix it that's pretty much your only choice. Here's a video on how to test for drainage. Good luck.
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  #26  
Old 01-01-2014, 05:28 PM
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+1 on aftermarket accessories. One thing not mentioned is the OBD port. On some cars I've seen, it's powered at all times. Some tuners or aftermarket monitors draw power from that port even when the car isn't running.
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  #27  
Old 01-30-2014, 02:53 PM
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I have a 2007 crew cab 5.4 with 72,000 miles. I have had this problem for over 2 years now. I have no aftermarket accessories on it. I have replaced the battery and after a few days, won't start. One incident the other day, Started in my driveway, drove less than a mile to the gas station, had to get a jump. after that it started just fine until about 3-4 days later. Alternator is putting out 14.76v while running and 14.54 with everything on. Battery ranges from 12.6 -12.3 while not running. But yet It gets harder and harder to start until eventually I have to charge the battery. About ready to run this truck into a wall.
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  #28  
Old 01-30-2014, 03:17 PM
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I had a similar problem with one of my cars at 135K. My alternator brushes were worn but not worn enough to not work. When I tested it on my driveway, everything looked good, but while driving, I think it didn't make complete contact with the armature and therefore charged intermittently. So my car was running off an intermittent alt and my battery at the same time therefore never complained. I also had to charge up the battery every once in a while, and eventually, my battery died for 'no reason'
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  #29  
Old 01-31-2014, 07:44 AM
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I'm dealing/have been dealing with similiar issues on my 2006 mustang gt. I paid a shop to see if there was a draw on the battery, they had the car for 4 days hooked up, I was told with the little draw on the battery I should be able to sit my car for 6 months and it will start. Ten days later battery dead, I took it to advanced they charged it over night, next day hooked it up took car for an hour ride. I let the car sit for another week and took for another one hour drive. Ten days later the weather was too bad for a drive so I hooked up my trickle charge, in one hour it said batter was fully charged. The only thing I can figure which was mentioned earlier and I've read it on other forums is when my battery died after my car was in the shop I had forgotten to turn my radio off, when I got it started my radio came on. It seems when I remember to turn my radio off before I shut the car off I can let the car sit for more than a week. I was on my 5th battery before the car was 7, the first battery I was able to jump a couple of times the next 3 weren't able to be jumped and this last one was able to be rescued. I love the car in the spring/summer and fall but every winter I think about getting rid of it.
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  #30  
Old 02-22-2014, 07:36 PM
William Ted Mahavier William Ted Mahavier is offline
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2006 F150 current draw

Same problem 2006 F150. First I load tested battery. Then validated that even with another good battery the same thing occurs. Withing a few days, battery is below 12.2 volts (or less than 50% capacity). I have no aftermarket accessories. I have used an ammeter to check the current draw at every fuse and find three that draw .01A which is normal and not enough to drain a battery that quickly. For a drain that quick, it must be pulling about .25A or more. I'm stumped -- anybody resolved their problem? I read on one forum that Fuse 21 (keeps instrument cluster alive, power windows, dome lights, and radio) sometimes fails to quit drawing power, but when I leave my ammeter on that fuse for an hour, draw drops to zero, even though it stays at .21A for quite awhile -- perhaps as long as 30 minutes.
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Old 02-22-2014, 07:36 PM
 
 
 
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