Hi all, I'm getting ready to change and flush the coolant on my 03 6.0 liter. I've done alot of reading and got alot of good info on here as to how to do it and what coolant to use and using the distilled water and so on. I will be installing a coolant filter at the same time. I was on the Dieselsite website and was reading about the Evans coolant they sell. If it does all that they claim it sounds like a good product and would be worth the price. Does anyone have any experience or an opinion on this NPG+ Evans diesel waterless coolant ?

 

If it was me, simple answer:

Don't touch it.

What this says is that they basically have a blend of the same common base ingredients everyone else uses:

Maintenance » Engine Cooling Systems

I couldn't find a MSDS --- the bible for quick peek at what they are really doing --- not exhaustive, but enough to guess.





They want you to basically, operate your engine at a significantly higher operating temperature with a kludge mod.


OK, let me see.. simultaneously claiming less cavitation while telling you to operate a non-pressurized system (which increases cavitation)... which is which? I am confused.

Kludging a resistor to spoof the fan thermostat? Um.. the 6.0 fan is electronically controlled by the ECT and other sensors.

Who are they kidding?





On top of this, a claim of improving fuel efficiency by up to 10%???


Give me a break... this is a free lunch claim.


Look at what the study on their own site said:



http://www.evanscooling.com/assets/p...vans-final.pdf

This is done on a heavy truck --- not readily comparable to a 6.0




The risk you run is to use an unapproved coolant that do not have any Ford certification / approval.

Insofar as modding the vehicle to operate at a higher temperature, that throws every EPA certification, etc. out the window and have unknown effects as to how it would affect other components --- especially the already highly thermally stressed ones like the FICM.

With this, EOT inevitably will go up --- are you over the "limit"? Who knows.

Don't forget, you also got yourself a higher transmission temperature!

It is nearly gospel in the transmission life that above the "normal" range, the higher the operating temp, the lower the life of the transmission.

All for free.


If your are under warranty, use of this stuff almost certainly voids it.

 

Thanks gearloose1. I thought it sounded to good to be true. Why would a company that has so many other good products for the 6.0 sell something that could possibly not be doing what the write up on the product claims ? Unless I am reading the info on their site wrong this coolant sounds like the cure all of all coolant issues.

 

More info:

-40F Freeze point?

Um... Many places in the US (Alaska, north, etc) and Canada routinely go below this temp.

You got to be joking to have a coolant that risk a cracked block and severe engine damage.





NPG » Engine Cooling Systems

Oh... every one of their products have a fairly high freezing point...

e.g.



HDTC » Engine Cooling Systems

 

Every bit of information I posted came from the Evans Cooling site.

I didn't make this up.

 

gearloose1 is right, lower pressure increases cavitation.

and if you need to change the pump, radiator, and cap. why go through all that trouble for something thats not going to really help much at all.

i heard somewhere that for every 10 degrees you lower your transmission, you can increase its life by 20%( i think that was right). so possibly increasing you trans temp would automatically kill this coolant for me.

 

The real thing is, Ford spent millions monkeying around with the 6.0 cooling system, ultimately coming out with a boiler cleaner VC-9 to fix problems.

They got it right... with millions of units on the road to learn from and hundreds of millions of warranty claims.

Do we really want to use our ride for a free product test evaluation stand for this outfit?

 

just thinking if it boils at alot higher temp, then the pressure drop to cause cavitation will have to be greater, which is probably why the use a unpressurized system.

 

Cavitation is something that I have had an interest in for other reasons.... like marine undersea....

The thing is, just because it tests with lower cavitation on a standardized ASTM test does not mean it will actually do so in real life --- not without evidence.

Many factors are involved --- if you want to know, even changes in salinity changes cavitation characteristics (salty water is denser).

In an engine, you got debris, casting sand, crud... rust... all of which interacts.

How do we know how this stuff really performs without having the history and use experience equivalent to hundreds of millions of hours / miles of operation?

Not something to trust an ASTM standardized test on when it is a totally new stuff.

 

that is part of the reason i went into engineering, i like know why things happen the way they do and several classes i took involved cavitation (which i agree is some pretty neat stuff).

cavitation is from the pressure drop from accelerating the fluid. just how a airplane wing has different pressures on top and bottom of the wing. the turbine or prop is the same way. if the low pressure side falls below the vapor pressure (boiling point) then cavitation occurs. like u mentioned earlier higher pressure, higher boiling point. so by pressurizing the system, the vapor pressure point is increased making it harder to boil over.

the debris u mentioned will only affect cavitation if they change the properties of the fluid, thus changing the vapor pressure (which is why salt effects the system).

 

Porno pics...

Diesel Technician Society


We don't know how this proprietary stuff will interact with the stuff in the debris, and whether it will do so.

Will it form soluble acids?

We know water is reactive, and you can never get all the water out (and even if you did, some remains).

Same reason why brakes rust from the inside out (water) as well as outside in (normal everyday corrosion).

 

i agree, we have no idea how it will react. thats why i also voted against it also

 

The Ford Premium Gold coolant (OEM coolant for our 6.0L motors) is a good coolant when mixed in a 50/50% concentration per the manual. It can be had at most dealerships for around $10.00 - $12.00/gallon if you ask or negotiate off the list price they all try to sell it for.

I personally change mine every 50,000 miles since new... but the Ford manual originally stated to drain and refill at 100,000 miles and then every 50,000 miles after that (believing that people would use tap water or the dealership would).

This is why I just chose to use the 50,000 miles interval to drain, flush and refill on a more than recommended interval.

Ford and their OEM suppliers makes some pretty good fluids for the money. Just because it has the Ford name on it versus some "exotic brand name" does not make it bad.

Ford Premium Gold coolant is a good coolant, as is their Mercon SP fluid for the tranny... and even their Motorcraft 15W-40 motor oil is as good a dino oil as any other out there (I ran it for 50,000 miles with perfect oil analysis results before changing to Rotella 5W-40 synthetic for better cold weather protection/starts).

Ford Premium Gold = Good coolant
Evans coolant = expensive and may or may not work... so why risk it... and does not meet Ford's specification per their manual?

Remember, the Evans coolant is waterless... so you will have to drain your entire motor and system and use double the coolant to fill your cooling system... so instead of 3-1/2 gallons of Ford coolant, you will have to buy 7 gallons of Evans... ouch that is expensive!!!!

 

Being forced to use Ford stuff for many years myself. I will say 95% of there chemicals are really top notch.
from there coolant to there teflon based blue greese

 

Sounds like a system for racing only. Has no practicality on a 6.0 diesel. Not even close to proper temps. for a towing or daily driver.. In my opinon not worth consideration and a waste of money and time.