PCV mod question
#1
PCV mod question
hello, I've read a lot about people modifying the PCV system to include some sort of air/oil separator. I've seen that some people have used an air compressor air/water separator. I've got two of them and none will hold vacume, they all leak down. I've spent too much time tracking down vacume leaks on this truck. Got it running perfect and I will not accept any vacume leak. What other options are there that will seal? I saw this one one summit,
Steeda Autosports 555-3710 - Steeda Autosports Oil Separators
but I don't really want to spend that much. For now I put on an in-line, "clear fuel filter", but I know it will get dirty fast. I took it on one drive after putting it in, and it was definitly working! I'm hoping I can clean it out with some gas and blow it out, but it is temporary until I find a better option.
I like the idea of keeping the intake tract as clean as possible so any good ideas would be welcome.
Steeda Autosports 555-3710 - Steeda Autosports Oil Separators
but I don't really want to spend that much. For now I put on an in-line, "clear fuel filter", but I know it will get dirty fast. I took it on one drive after putting it in, and it was definitly working! I'm hoping I can clean it out with some gas and blow it out, but it is temporary until I find a better option.
I like the idea of keeping the intake tract as clean as possible so any good ideas would be welcome.
#3
#4
I don't think the factory did this because they like the "kiss" rule, either that or they didn't care; but if you don't mind draining the catch can when needed and want a cleaner top end, why not. Its also a good time to check to see where "your" PCV port is on the FI manifold. Mine is a 95' and they(factory) apparently finally saw the light and moved the port from right on top of # 8cyl, to infront of the vacume tree.
Anyway, it's obviously not needed, as idicated by the mileage of your truck 280,000, but from a performance stand point there might be a benifit. I did a lot of reading on the subject and many say that reburning blowby gases(oil mist), can lower lead to detonation and can gum up the top end. Also if blowby is the product of combustion gases & oil, it kind of seems like the PCV is acting as a second EGR and everyone knows what effect the EGR has. It's also possible that there is a benifit of greater fuel economy. I have no idea of whether it helps fuel mileage or not, but it's such and easy mod, I figured why not! I just want to find something that actually seals vacume and is cheap!
Old Johnson and Evinrude outboards used to use a glass fuel filter with a removeable bowl so it could be serviced. These sealed good too, 2 stroke outboards don't like vacume leaks! I just need to find a junker.
Anyway, it's obviously not needed, as idicated by the mileage of your truck 280,000, but from a performance stand point there might be a benifit. I did a lot of reading on the subject and many say that reburning blowby gases(oil mist), can lower lead to detonation and can gum up the top end. Also if blowby is the product of combustion gases & oil, it kind of seems like the PCV is acting as a second EGR and everyone knows what effect the EGR has. It's also possible that there is a benifit of greater fuel economy. I have no idea of whether it helps fuel mileage or not, but it's such and easy mod, I figured why not! I just want to find something that actually seals vacume and is cheap!
Old Johnson and Evinrude outboards used to use a glass fuel filter with a removeable bowl so it could be serviced. These sealed good too, 2 stroke outboards don't like vacume leaks! I just need to find a junker.
#5
I had some serious blow-by issue with my Festiva and was getting a lot of oil in the intake tube, so I made one out of an air compressor oil separator I got from Harbor Freight. By the time I bought all the fittings & elbows, I could have just bought a real one. It worked great, but was WAY to small. I then bought the cheapest 750mL one off EBay. It works wonderful and catches about 12Oz of oil every 100 miles. It's keeping me going until I can pull the engine and do a swap.
#6
#7
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#8
I can't speak for anyone else, but teflon tape is a must do. I use it on every pipe thread, unless it is going to take heat, then I have an old can of Catapillar anti seize.
I didn't bother to check to see where the air/water separators where leaking, but I know it wasn't from the pipe threads.
After chasing around various vacume leaks on the truck, I could not sleep at night if I voluntarily added my own!
I didn't bother to check to see where the air/water separators where leaking, but I know it wasn't from the pipe threads.
After chasing around various vacume leaks on the truck, I could not sleep at night if I voluntarily added my own!
#9
Exhaust gases are inert because the oxygen has been mostly burned up in the combustion in the cylinder. With an EGR system it is used to dilute the incoming mixture to reduce the peak temperatures to reduce nitrous oxide emissions. On some engines blocking the EGR will result in a lean mixture.
The PCV system is designed to ventilate the engine crankcase of moisture and blow-by using manifold vacuum. Systems prior to 1960 used a road draft tube and breather cap. Unlike the exhaust stream the vapors in the crank case has oxygen and it will burn.
The PCV trap is a good idea and I wouldn't worry too much about a vacuum leak on that line since the system is constantly leaking at the PCV valve.
HAPPY NEW YEAR
rikard
The PCV system is designed to ventilate the engine crankcase of moisture and blow-by using manifold vacuum. Systems prior to 1960 used a road draft tube and breather cap. Unlike the exhaust stream the vapors in the crank case has oxygen and it will burn.
The PCV trap is a good idea and I wouldn't worry too much about a vacuum leak on that line since the system is constantly leaking at the PCV valve.
HAPPY NEW YEAR
rikard
#10
Exhaust gases are inert because the oxygen has been mostly burned up in the combustion in the cylinder. With an EGR system it is used to dilute the incoming mixture to reduce the peak temperatures to reduce nitrous oxide emissions. On some engines blocking the EGR will result in a lean mixture.
The PCV system is designed to ventilate the engine crankcase of moisture and blow-by using manifold vacuum. Systems prior to 1960 used a road draft tube and breather cap. Unlike the exhaust stream the vapors in the crank case has oxygen and it will burn.
The PCV trap is a good idea and I wouldn't worry too much about a vacuum leak on that line since the system is constantly leaking at the PCV valve.
HAPPY NEW YEAR
rikard
The PCV system is designed to ventilate the engine crankcase of moisture and blow-by using manifold vacuum. Systems prior to 1960 used a road draft tube and breather cap. Unlike the exhaust stream the vapors in the crank case has oxygen and it will burn.
The PCV trap is a good idea and I wouldn't worry too much about a vacuum leak on that line since the system is constantly leaking at the PCV valve.
HAPPY NEW YEAR
rikard
I hear ya on the vacume leak, I guess I'm a little nuts about them!
#11
Oreily's has one that is almost identical the the fuel filter for 10.99:
Wilmar M695 - Separator | O'Reilly Auto Parts
I prefer the type shown in the original post. The bottom "bowl" keeps the oil away from the filter. I guess one could mount the in-line type in a vertical orientation.
J
Wilmar M695 - Separator | O'Reilly Auto Parts
I prefer the type shown in the original post. The bottom "bowl" keeps the oil away from the filter. I guess one could mount the in-line type in a vertical orientation.
J
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