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  #1  
Old 12-29-2010, 11:24 AM
NorCalBusa NorCalBusa is offline
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6.0 Serp belt replacement- step by step

Anyone care to post the easiest, one man way? I've got 80k and want to preempt a failure and do it over the holiday...Getting the old one off is easy (cut it)- its the NEW one going on that looks daunting...
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Old 12-29-2010, 11:35 AM
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Can't help you with a step by step, but I wouldn't cut the old one, or not at first. Find the idler pulley on the passenger side under the alternator. There is a metal tab on the underside of the pulley. Standing on the passenger side pull the belt towards you with one hand and engage the metal tab with the other. This will lock the idler pulley so you can easily remove and replace the belt. Once the new belt is routed properly, simply pull the belt as before and the tab will automatically disengage.
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Old 12-29-2010, 11:53 AM
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Changing my belt is on the horizon, so I'm not sure how it's done (yet).

Once you figure out how to change the belt keep the old one as a spare -
IN the truck (and any tools you needed as well).
Also, keep a set of work gloves IN the truck (good for changing flats too).

Then, you don't need to worry (too much) about preempting it again.
Since, you'll have a spare AND the tool(s) to put the "spare" on.

It's like insurance against Murphy's Law.
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Old 12-29-2010, 11:58 AM
NorCalBusa NorCalBusa is offline
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Here's a couple comments I found in search. They seem helpful, but I'd love to hear from those who have done it, in a step by step.

Quote:
pop the section of the shroud off over the top of the fan which only takes a flat screwdriver. Just the small curved section not the whole top half. It is possible to fish it through all the pulleys by just locking the tensioner at the alternator as previously mentioned.

pulling up on the belt at the Alt works good. There is a tab on the tensionser that will lock it up. Pull on the belt at the Alt then use one hand to push the lock tab in on the tensionser is the easiest way to change a belt on these trucks. It helps if you have two people doing it. If you were to sling a belt just rout it like your supposed to save the Alt for the last pully. Again pulling up on the belt will move the tensionser and you can slip it on the Alt then. One more thing if you are changing the belt once you get the tensioner locked and get the new belt on then pull up on the belt the lock will pop out on it's own.
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Old 12-29-2010, 11:59 AM
NorCalBusa NorCalBusa is offline
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Good advice typically- but from what I've seen and hear; ain't nobody going to be changing this belt on the side of the road...!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Misky6.0 View Post
Changing my belt is on the horizon, so I'm not sure how it's done (yet).

Once you figure out how to change the belt keep the old one as a spare -
IN the truck (and any tools you needed as well).
Also, keep a set of work gloves IN the truck (good for changing flats too).

Then, you don't need to worry (too much) about preempting it again.
Since, you'll have a spare AND the tool(s) to put the "spare" on.

It's like insurance against Murphy's Law.
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  #6  
Old 12-29-2010, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalBusa View Post
Good advice typically- but from what I've seen and hear; ain't nobody going to be changing his belt on the side of the road...!
Perhaps, but things seem to fail in a location where the local mechanic
can't get the needed part for a couple of days.
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  #7  
Old 12-29-2010, 12:17 PM
NorCalBusa NorCalBusa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Misky6.0 View Post
Perhaps, but things seem to fail in a location where the local mechanic
can't get the needed part for a couple of days.
Agreed, and the belt isn't cheap either!
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  #8  
Old 12-29-2010, 05:02 PM
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You can do it on your own with a little practice. I have a long screwdriver which I lay in place so I don't have to reach for it. Pull the belt below the alternator with both hands, keep it pulled with the left hand and use the right hand to lift the tab under the tensioner. Then release the belt. I have taken my alternator off several times by doing this. I haven't actually changed the belt yet. My spare is brand new and behind the rear seat. There is a diagram of the belt path in front of the radiator. When you are done a quick pull on the belt releases the little kick stand under the tensioner.

It's one of the those tasks best practiced at home in the warm and dry and not on the side of the road! Like putting on chains, practice makes it a lot easier.
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  #9  
Old 12-29-2010, 07:08 PM
NorCalBusa NorCalBusa is offline
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Thanks.

- You doing all that from up top or from below?

- You never explained what the long screwdriver is for?

Quote:
Originally Posted by davidkstyler View Post
You can do it on your own with a little practice. I have a long screwdriver which I lay in place so I don't have to reach for it. Pull the belt below the alternator with both hands, keep it pulled with the left hand and use the right hand to lift the tab under the tensioner. Then release the belt. I have taken my alternator off several times by doing this. I haven't actually changed the belt yet. My spare is brand new and behind the rear seat. There is a diagram of the belt path in front of the radiator. When you are done a quick pull on the belt releases the little kick stand under the tensioner.

It's one of the those tasks best practiced at home in the warm and dry and not on the side of the road! Like putting on chains, practice makes it a lot easier.
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  #10  
Old 12-29-2010, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalBusa View Post
Thanks.

- You doing all that from up top or from below?

- You never explained what the long screwdriver is for?
I stand by the passenger side battery so I can pull across the fender. Grab the belt just below the alternator pulley.

The screwdriver allows me to lift the tab while still pulling on the belt with the left hand. I'm not sure if I could get my hand down there between the belt and the shroud. The screwdriver, or a bar, makes it easy to reach the tab while still pulling the belt.

Was that a little clearer?? I can see it clearly but writing it down is always harder! Take a look for the tab and it should be clearer. The tab is a grey/dirty silver color and lifts up to lock.
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Old 12-29-2010, 10:59 PM
NorCalBusa NorCalBusa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidkstyler View Post
I stand by the passenger side battery so I can pull across the fender. Grab the belt just below the alternator pulley.

The screwdriver allows me to lift the tab while still pulling on the belt with the left hand. I'm not sure if I could get my hand down there between the belt and the shroud. The screwdriver, or a bar, makes it easy to reach the tab while still pulling the belt.

Was that a little clearer?? I can see it clearly but writing it down is always harder! Take a look for the tab and it should be clearer. The tab is a grey/dirty silver color and lifts up to lock.
Thanks- I'll take a look this weekend.
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Old 12-30-2010, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalBusa View Post
Anyone care to post the easiest, one man way? I've got 80k and want to preempt a failure and do it over the holiday...Getting the old one off is easy (cut it)- its the NEW one going on that looks daunting...
I'm sure Ford has a step by step procedure written somewhere but I'm not sure that it would apply in this case--LOL.

There are sections of the belt that must be done and are EASIER to do from underneath so be prepared. It looks intimidating but if you study the diagram and "divide" the motor into 1/2's or 1/3's (drivers, passenger, alternator) it's really NOT that bad. DO be prepared to take some time-- 2 to 4 hours depending on your mechanical experience. It can be done in 15 minutes or less.

1. Remove the small arched fan shroud. It takes a small thin flat screwdriver to individually release the retaining tabs one at a time. I usually start with the top (drivers side/middle) and work towards the passenger side. There are 6 or 7 of them. Release and pull up JUST ENOUGH (maybe 1/8") for the tab to clear it's retainer and go to the next one and so on til the shroud lifts off.

2. Release the belt tension. The belt tensioner, as previously stated, has a catch that will hold it in place. It also has a 1/2" square hole for use of a tool for those of us who aren't strong enough to pull the belt and set the catch.

3. The belt WILL go on without removing anything from the front of the motor, fan included. The hardest spot, IMHO, is threading between the crankshaft and fan pulley because the belt is double thickness at that point. If you look at the fan pulley diagram that's the section of belt for the two driver side pulleys and the fan pulley.
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Old 01-14-2011, 05:12 PM
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Here is a picture of the tab (1). When the idler is pulled out the tab can be pushed in so it supports the idler at point (2).
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Old 01-14-2011, 09:36 PM
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I can change the belt in about 10 min, now. The best way is to remove the little shroud and the tensioner. But it can be done without removing the tensioner. The first time I changed the belt I didn't remove either the shroud nor the tensioner, that way took me about 45min. I was having a belt squeal problem and ended up removing the belt several time to try and figure out the issue. If I would of seen this thread earlier this week I could of posted pics of the whole thing, but now the squeal is gone and I don't want to chance it coming back. When it does I will try and remember to take pictures of the process.
Good Luck!
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Old 01-14-2011, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalBusa View Post
Good advice typically- but from what I've seen and hear; ain't nobody going to be changing this belt on the side of the road...!

You can change one beside the road with nothing more than a stick, although a screwdriver is nice. I know, I did one this summer. I find the worst part is getting the belt pushed in past the idler from underneath, that's where the screw driver comes in.
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Old 01-14-2011, 09:52 PM
 
 
 
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