Hi gang,
After repairing the source of a small short circuit in the headliner I found that rain was seeping in at the top of the windshield. When removing the trim during the aforementioned repair I must've disturbed the seal. The seal seems to be tar like rope material I've used when I mounted a new windshield in my '66 Chevy.
My question; is this tar like material available? by what name does it go under? and finally where can I find it?

Thanks and a lift of the lynch lid for any responses.

Gus

 

You don't mention the year which is vitally important to help you here---I'm in the auto glass/windshield biz!

Need the year and if there is any evidence of previous windshield replacement? OEM windshield will have a Ford logo in the lower right corner---aftermarket will have an imprint of the manufacturer which includes a number like DW1292.

I can help after this is known.

 

This is a 1981 E 150 "The Oven" I've owned this rig for about 10 years now with the same windshield, but I know of no prior replacement. No sign of any logo mark unless it's under the moulding.

 

Holy schneiglies! A local glass shop says that because the windshield is so old I have to replace the whole dang thing at between $400-800 clams. I think I'll just have to keep a sponge handy. Meanwhile, what's a poor boy to do?

 

Obviously your local glass shop is trying to break it off deeply inside you---avoid those fools like the plague!!

Truth is your van could benefit from having that w/s removed, the entire pinchweld cleaned and inspected for rust damage etc. If you plan on keeping that van this would be a great time to take care of that area---your years are known for being leakers especially with the materials used during that era.

You have butyl used as the adhesive holding the windshield to the body which is known to migrate or allow the w/s to "sink" over time, pushing it out from under the glass. The bits of the butyl sealing material you see are what's squeezed out over time-----that stuff just doesn't last forever.

A GOOD independent glass shop like myself would charge you no more than about $250. Best bet would be maybe remove the w/s yourself, check for damage and repair as needed them contract someone to just come install a new one for you. Safelite Auto Glass has the cheapest stuff around but its so low quality and junk. Guardian, PGW (formerly PPG) are good brands of glass----NOTHING used from a scrap yard though---waste of money for installation.

Time to call a few other glass shops----don't just settle on one especially those fools you've already talked to! If you need or want more help with this PM me---glad to maybe trade phone numbers.

 

Great tips JW, I got a tube of 3M urethane but the weather is much too cold to make an attempt now.

 

Sorry but having that material really won't do you much good if you don't know how to reset a windshield. 3M makes another product 08509 that would work if you're trying only to "patch" things back together.

FWIW most good windshield urethanes are usable down to at least 32 degrees. Since you're not removing the whole w/s the extending curing times of that material won't matter.

Best of luck------I'm still available if needed.

 

For the patch job the guy at NAPA sent me home with a tube of 3M 08609, perhaps similar stuff?

 

My 3M catalog doesn't show a number 08609----08609 aka Auto Glazing & Bedding Compound, Black. If it has that description that'll be fine for that job. Problem is the moldings should be removed--trying to "patch" this from the inside in this manner just won't work. The 08509 is a wicking type material, will follow leaks downward but not upward.

 

I had the windshield in my 73 E-100 pulled and gasket replaced, it was leaking, turned out Ford placed foam between the frame and gasket, making a water trap that caused rust, the glass shop had experience in that with those vans. Leaks will cause the frame to rot, leading to a more serious issue in the future, get it done right.

 

Here's the tube;

 

JWA:

Safelite (Geico's Glass contractor) did my windshield and got it done on the 2nd try (1st one cracked after 2 nights on 15 degrees whether). Payless is another franchise which does plenty of jobs around here. What makes them low quality / cheap, and why would independent shops do a better job?

 

Yes in the 70's windshields were set in rubber gaskets which became butyl set starting about XXXX----urethane set and encapsulated (moldings part of windshield) starting model year 1992. Body construction of the eariler days left a lot to be desired rust resistant wise. Only into the early 90's did the sheet metal parts receive electro plated parts individually treated along with the body shell after assembled being treated once again. Early vans had horrible rusting problems most notably the cargo area floors above the rear axle. Same for the windshied frame aka pinchweld-----today there are a lot of steps undertaken to give much longer life to the bodies.

Without pulling this windhshield and inspecting the pinchweld applying a "patch" might stop the leaks temporarily which will serve the purpose if long term ownership isn't a concern. Yes DIY is cheap and doing it correct isn't the bottom line becomes what length of service is desired?

Sadly too many ignore little things like this only to discover a bit of maintenance beforehand would have prevented costly repairs. Pay me now or pay me later as that old commercial once taunted us.........

Henry Safelite is a combined manufacturer of auto glass parts with its own installation division---but their real money is made through their direct billing systems they have with almost every known auto insurer in the USA. When you call what you believe to be your company's glass claims desk you're probably talking to a Safelite operation somehere in the USA or India. They do all the paper work for the insurance company and will try snookering you into "allowing" them to also schedule the replacement "for your convenience". Once a month they will electronically transmit a single invoice to the insurance company for their services which includes fees for handling replacements not directly handled by their installation divisions.

Their glass is some of the very cheapest and poorest quality out there. DOT specifications for windshields only applies to the inner lining----has to be .032" thick. There is no mention nor requirement for the overall thickness of the entire windshield so Safelite makes them noticably thinner---at least to the installer. A small rock chip or slight weather/temperature induced movement can break the cheaper Safelite piece long before a better brand. In addition the Safelite pieces typically do not fit well which causes its only set of problems including difficult to install without leaks----luck seems to play a large part in using parts from Safelite.

Most better installers know of the issues surrounding Safelite products and avoid using them if customer satisfaction is their first priority. For close to the same cost of Safelite we can purchase Guardian, PGW, Pilkington, Carlite and on and on. Mostly its anything BUT Safelite----I absolutely refuse to use it at all!!

And TurboGus that 08609 is NOT what you need----its adhesive and you want a "sealer" that has a capillary action like the 08509 I described earlier. Trust me---I INSTALL glass full time, chances are your NAPA guy doesn't!

 

On one hand, all the work on "The Oven" over the years has led to quite a substantial investment. On the other hand, especially on account of the economic downturn my income took a hit of 1/3, over a single year period to date, so it looks like I'll just have to let it rot. Luckily I've got a backup vehicle if the van fully becomes undrivable.
One thing we may have lost sight of here, "When removing the trim during the aforementioned repair I must've disturbed the seal". There was no leak prior to this, the tar like material had partially bonded to the trim, pulling it away to gain access to some electrical wiring (part of a small harness powering the radio gear) a small, thin 2" edge piece came off with the trim. It's for these reasons I thought I could patch this leak, on the surface it seemed that a full blown windshield replacement was superfluous. I hope I'm not stepping on any toes here.

 

Oh my gosh NO TGus----your points are well understood and appreciated----money can be an issue so please don't think you're being criticized at all----we're just sharing bits of knowledge---sorry if it seems otherwise.

In order to accomplish your leak repair it would still be best to remove the moldings and apply the 3M 08509 sealant in the little "pocket" that's formed between the visible body and windshield edge. Filling these areas maybe 12" on either side of the suspected leak would probably stop it for the moment.

I'd advise against trying to do this from the inside because you can't access the leaking area as well as from the outside. That would be my plan were I doing this for you but maybe you're not too familiar with molding removal and reinstallation---understandable becasue its not a common opertation for most vehicle owners.

By using my method of sealing from the outside you won't need a new windshield. Since you have the luxury of repeating this again and again its no more costly than the materal alone---about $10-12 a tube. IF you go the 3M 08509 route keep it closed once opened---it will harden in the nozzle and is a bear to remove after few weeks.

Hope this helps-------sorry to get so far off track!