Steering Gear Box Adjustment
#16
#17
Thanks for your feedback. I do check the pressure often. Keep the front at 55-60, rears at 70. I'm gonna experiment with pressures a little and see if it has any effect.
#18
#19
#20
steering box
All the suggesting are very good but when you go to loosen the 5/8 nut make sure you have the Allen key inserted in the hole & hold it tight has you loosen the nut. Then keep the box end wrench on the nut & then tighten the allen shaft just a little bit clock wise. Then make sure to hold the allen shaft with the allen key in that position & then tighten the nut . This way you will not lose the place you started from. If you need to go further with you adjustment ,just repeat what you have done before. Always check the steering wheel for any slop after doing each adjustment before going for more adjustment. Hope this makes sense. When your checking the sloop just move the wheel enough that is sloppy You will feel that little space. Thats what you want to take away.
#21
#22
If you are adjusting the steering box via the bolt on the top, start looking for a replacement. There are plenty out there to choose from now instead of being told RedHead is the only good option. It isn't...
Personally, after trying to be a customer of RedHead, I refuse to send them any of my money.
Other choices:
1. Blue-Top Steering Gears - https://www.bluetopsteeringgears.com/apps/webstore/
2. West Texas Offroad - https://westtexasoffroad.wixsite.com/wtor
3. Local rebuilder
Personally, after trying to be a customer of RedHead, I refuse to send them any of my money.
Other choices:
1. Blue-Top Steering Gears - https://www.bluetopsteeringgears.com/apps/webstore/
2. West Texas Offroad - https://westtexasoffroad.wixsite.com/wtor
3. Local rebuilder
#23
#24
I had installed x code springs to take up the weight of my ARB bumper/winch, and it made the truck sit level, which in-turn, made the steering slop worse and it rode like **** with weight. I added F350 blocks in the rear to compensate and get it back on a tilt, as it should be. When I sat the rear of the truck to match the front height (meaning match the factory height of 2" or so higher than the front) my steering problems all but went away.
I am going to do this Friday when adding my front level kit. I have probably 1" to 2" of play with my steering. Only 97k miles. Hopefully this helps. Though should I maybe replace the tie rods first before going this route? Also should I replace all 4 up front or just the outers?
Last edited by beef tits; 12-04-2018 at 11:20 AM. Reason: clarity
#25
Do you have a "leveling kit"? If your truck rides even slightly lower in the rear than the front, it will make the steering slop way more noticeable, especially with a load. I tried the rod adjustment on mine and it made no difference.
I had installed x code springs to take up the weight of my ARB bumper/winch, and it made the truck sit level, which in-turn, made the steering slop worse and it rode like **** with weight. I added F350 blocks in the rear to compensate and get it back on a tilt, as it should be. When I sat the rear of the truck to match the front height (meaning match the factory height of 2" or so higher than the front) my steering problems all but went away.
See above. A leveling kit effectively transfers vehicle weight to the rear axle, with load in the bed it is much more so. This will make any steering issues way worse. Trucks that ride level with no load in the bed aren't good for much other than parking at the mall anyway
I had installed x code springs to take up the weight of my ARB bumper/winch, and it made the truck sit level, which in-turn, made the steering slop worse and it rode like **** with weight. I added F350 blocks in the rear to compensate and get it back on a tilt, as it should be. When I sat the rear of the truck to match the front height (meaning match the factory height of 2" or so higher than the front) my steering problems all but went away.
See above. A leveling kit effectively transfers vehicle weight to the rear axle, with load in the bed it is much more so. This will make any steering issues way worse. Trucks that ride level with no load in the bed aren't good for much other than parking at the mall anyway
#26
Do you have a "leveling kit"? If your truck rides even slightly lower in the rear than the front, it will make the steering slop way more noticeable, especially with a load. I tried the rod adjustment on mine and it made no difference.
I had installed x code springs to take up the weight of my ARB bumper/winch, and it made the truck sit level, which in-turn, made the steering slop worse and it rode like **** with weight. I added F350 blocks in the rear to compensate and get it back on a tilt, as it should be. When I sat the rear of the truck to match the front height (meaning match the factory height of 2" or so higher than the front) my steering problems all but went away.
See above. A leveling kit effectively transfers vehicle weight to the rear axle, with load in the bed it is much more so. This will make any steering issues way worse. Trucks that ride level with no load in the bed aren't good for much other than parking at the mall anyway
I had installed x code springs to take up the weight of my ARB bumper/winch, and it made the truck sit level, which in-turn, made the steering slop worse and it rode like **** with weight. I added F350 blocks in the rear to compensate and get it back on a tilt, as it should be. When I sat the rear of the truck to match the front height (meaning match the factory height of 2" or so higher than the front) my steering problems all but went away.
See above. A leveling kit effectively transfers vehicle weight to the rear axle, with load in the bed it is much more so. This will make any steering issues way worse. Trucks that ride level with no load in the bed aren't good for much other than parking at the mall anyway
changing the front to rear rake changes your caster angle and while the weight bias changes the handeling some it wouldn’t be as noticeable as the caster change, the added rear weight bias would change your understeer/overstreer.
#27
Sounds like your caster settings are or were less then ideal. Worn steering components will certainly cause wandering and feel worse with lower caster settings then with higher caster settings.
changing the front to rear rake changes your caster angle and while the weight bias changes the handeling some it wouldn’t be as noticeable as the caster change, the added rear weight bias would change your understeer/overstreer.
#28
because alignment is 3 diffrent settings you can easily make it handle horrible and still be in “spec” its all about defing your desired handeling traits and then compromising on each. accordingly. most shops do not do this, they are “ set the toe and collect the dough” mentality
#29
#30
you would be better off finding the worn out component and replace it to cure your other 20% of slop.