for all you big truck folks with inner cap nuts and outer nuts, here are the #'s from napa for replacement: 6412000-right inner--6412010-right outer--6412001-left inner--6412011-left outer. full set front and rear cost 40$

 

Is that the short inners for the rear or the long

 

that is the short--under 2 inches. they do have the long if needed.

 

I must disagree. Anti-seize is never recommended, as explained in the below Fleet Owner Magazine article, Debunking a Myth. As for nuts being "over-torqued", this is caused by use of anti-seize and oil on studs. The wheel and attaching part manufacturers all recommend studs be dry in "stud piloted" applications, and torqued to 450-500 lb/ft for 3/4" x 16 tpi components. In past years the same standard applied to "hub piloted", but I now see in the below Accuride catalog, page 44, they now recommend 300-400 lb/ft. The Fleet Owner article recommends 2-3 drops of light oil on hub piloted studs, and says nuts should be replaced when it takes heroic effort to remove them. Stu

Debunking a myth
http://www.accuridewheels.com/completeversion.pdf

 

lots of controversy on this subject. imho you're both right, depending on application. the book says dry on stud pilot, a couple drops of oil ok. this is for a working truck that has wheels spinning fast all the time and is accruing mileage. (that is the assumption as far as book is concerned). i run a shop with 75 rigs, we run them dry. accurate torque. however--for the units that sit more than anything else, and when run, are not scooting down the freeway, but rather, ******* in town with little if any loads, i would surely use anti sieze. have never had an issue with this application in my old trucks, (and have had some loads on).--ps-- as you can see from book, torque specs have changed. if they can be lowered for the big rigs, is 40# less torque on something going slower and not getting pounded really going to hurt? i don't think so. just my 2 cents.

 

Pete - You're a great diplomat. Stu

 

Was there ever a logical reason for the left hand thread lugs on the left side of a vehicle?

 

Yep,google left hand threads

 

Think about the direction the wheel rotates when going forward and the direction you turn the lug nut to tighten it. It appears to me that the left hand threads should be on the right side of the vehicle if you want them to self-tighten.

 

yeah, yeah, yeah! i'm gonna run for a BIG position in gov. vote for me. lol

 

Seems to me you could get elected Mayor of NYC given the flames that've been aimed at Bloomberg over snow removal. You need that p.i.t.a., right? Stu

 

three fingers louis would probably shoot me! ouch

 

By the way, if anyone is intrested, the correct terms are 'ball' nut (outter) and 'thimble' nut (inner). Tom

 

I'll agree that the common terms are ball seat nut, and thimble. The Budd and BWP (Brake and Wheel Parts) company catalogs both list them as "Outer Cap Nut", "Inner Cap Nut", and "Front Nut". Stu

 

I have found the best way to remove frozen inner budd lug nuts is to hit the lug nut socket with a 3 to 4 pound hammer while turning the socket. We always used impact guns, I ve never done it without one. One or two good wacks and they start spinning. As far as shorter & longer inner lug nuts, the shorter ones are pretty close in length. Different manufacturers made different lengths, all pretty close. The long inner lug nuts had a shoulder towards the wheel, they were for aluminum wheels only. They wouldnt work on steel wheels. I have had a couple long ones break off. I also agree they should be installed dry.