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  #1  
Old 12-20-2010, 06:43 PM
DieselMike76 DieselMike76 is offline
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1975 Ford Crew Cab Build

Hi all.

Just wanted to share my latest project with you. Project being the operative word here.

Ive started with a very rusty 1975 Ford Crew Cab.

I will be installing a 12v Cummins with NV4500 2wd unit.

Build Plans Are:

-4" lift
-37" Tires
-Dana 60 HP Front Axle
-Dana 80 Rear End
-Late Model Superduty Interior
-Update Grill to 78-79 style
-Hydroboost Setup
-Complete Frame-off restoration

Here's what I started with:

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Before Cutting the top half of the front crossmember off:

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After with mock up of engine mounts:

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My plan for engine mounts (need finish welding and gussets) just checking fitment under weight of engine:

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Here is the engine sitting in its new home:

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Plenty of room for A/C compressor:

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This is the last 7 weeks of work.

Currently working on modifying the transmission crossmember and when i get bored fixing bad body work from PO.
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  #2  
Old 12-20-2010, 09:40 PM
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looks familiar, only mine was done outside under a big canopy. Post lots of pics. When you get to that piont, there's an easy way to clear the a/c box and turbo/wastegate, seems to be a sticking point for swappers with factory a/c.
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Old 12-21-2010, 12:39 PM
DieselMike76 DieselMike76 is offline
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Alreday been there. Luckily I read this forum about a month before I started and was able to make it happen knowing it was an issue.

Got it to clear. It's close (1" clearance) but I don't have to flip the manifold or remove wastegate.

Any thoughts on header wrap around downpipe?

I had a pic but its too blurry to post.
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Old 12-21-2010, 01:28 PM
DieselMike76 DieselMike76 is offline
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And if you thought your truck was bad check this out.....

You literally can peel the roof off on the right side.

Click the image to open in full size.

This is before i removed the rivets, sheet metal, silicone bathroom sealant and bondo. Driver and passenger side same.

Click the image to open in full size.

Bad rust on rear cab mounts.

Click the image to open in full size.

Here's the beginning of my repair Starting on passenger side
Rusted spots cut out of floor:

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Now the inner and outer rocker panel removed:

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Notice here that the entire lower door post is missing. It was actually held together with rivets and 1 final piece of rusted metal which fell off when I removed the rocker panel.

I have all my rust repair parts ready to go. I'm thinking of posting a detailed thread about panel repair.

I use cleco's and I haven't seen many posts on how these are used so if anyone is interested I'll be happy to do so.
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Old 12-21-2010, 04:57 PM
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KenworthW900
Kick *** build!!! If you dont mind me asking...whatcha have to lay down for that Cummins? As I plan to drop that same Cummins into my 66 someday....keep up the great work!
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Old 12-21-2010, 05:24 PM
DieselMike76 DieselMike76 is offline
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$1150 for the engine with about 240k on the clock missing alternator, fan, and wiring harness.

Not too bad considering I see these engines on ebay for $2k+
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Old 12-21-2010, 11:40 PM
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Rust, the bane of an old vehicles existance! I hate seeing these old classics just dissolve like that.
I just looked at your profile, you're in cali? Where did you get the crew from? Thats an awful lot of rust for a southwest truck. Might consider sourcing a better cab?
My cab lived in rainy southern Oregon its whole life and nothing like that.
Here's a link to my build.
Old Ford Crew Cab Community, Pre 1980 Ford Crew Cab owners community and information source.

If the pics dont show up for you, let me know.
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Old 12-22-2010, 10:38 AM
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great build, great motor to swap into that truck also. when you do go building the D60 up front go with a king pin style and run hi steer. you will need to source a 78-79 F250/F350 4wd steering box. I am sure your aware the push pull design on that year truck is horrible.

keep the pics coming.
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Old 12-22-2010, 12:10 PM
DieselMike76 DieselMike76 is offline
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Yea it was a timing thing. I had some cash when I sold my Land Rover and I found this crew in Pennsylvania and had it shipped down here.

Realized afterword should have waited for something from Oregon to come about. Lesson learned on that one.

I passed on a cab for $750 that had all the doors out of Azalea, at the time had no truck to get it here. Hind sight, you know?

The cab was undercoated so most of it is intact. A leaky 460 and NP205 coated the rest in grease. It's fixable.

I know what you mean about Oregon trucks, my family is from Dunsmuir and we go to Southern Oregon all the time when we're up there. I practically break my neck staring out the window when we drive through places like Roseburg where there's a crew cab on practically every front lawn just waiting to be restored.

Bendog if you come across a set of rear doors up there I'd appreciate some heads up.

Yes I have D60 closed knuckle and this truck isn't moving till it's replaced with an open knuckle kingpin HP D60. If anyone has one I'm buying.

Off to Snowmobile around Mt. Shasta for the holidays.
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Old 12-22-2010, 01:05 PM
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I'm real happy with my saginaw steering box off my 97 Dodge donor mounted to the inside of the frame, it also retains all factory high pressure lines, hydroboost, and sag pump.
I'll keep me eyes out for some rear doors and a hp 60 for ya.
Luckily most of the cab parts are reg cab parts and easy to get, just a few special pieces. I feel bad about the trucks I scrapped for parts on mine, but they were headed to the crusher anyway.
Have fun sledding, this seems to be a great year for it.
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Old 12-22-2010, 01:21 PM
DieselMike76 DieselMike76 is offline
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I read your build on OFCC a couple months back. I actually saved your build on my favorites cause you took those awesome shots of the underside of your cab.

Love the econoline door handles.

My plan is to use a dodge saginaw steering gear since it will be direct connection to the Cummins. Plus they're plentiful and cheap.

I've so much to buy for mine i need to save where I can and I like $100 for the Sag vs $400 for the Ford.
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Old 12-22-2010, 02:01 PM
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Bendog,do you think the diesal stering box so someone could eliminate the current power assist setup on the 75 CC? reason i ask is my uncle has a 75 CC and his steering has become scary at best and unless you pay big money there isnt much you can do to fix it.
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Edelbrock efi intake JBA shorty,CustomY pipe/exhaust
http://www.supermotors.org/registry/...il.php?id=4158
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Old 12-22-2010, 02:12 PM
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Thanks, I lost the first 19 pages of pictures because of a website update over at OFCC, I'm in the process of editing my build to restore them. I changed to a supermotors acct on about page 19, so I only have to fix those pics, luckily.
If I'd have lifted mine, I could have gone with a passenger side steering arm easier and had the better steering, instead of the inverted "T" style. Mine's not bad now, just coulda been better. I may still try to work out the pass side arm thing yet, but I'm not lifting the truck.
You might also try to do like I did and limit your donor vehicle to keep replacement parts as easy to source as possible. Almost all parts on my truck are either from my 76 cc, or my 97 Dodge engine donor, makes it easier to maintain.
Hey, forget sledding and get to work on that crew!
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Old 12-22-2010, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kemicalburns View Post
Bendog,do you think the diesal stering box so someone could eliminate the current power assist setup on the 75 CC? reason i ask is my uncle has a 75 CC and his steering has become scary at best and unless you pay big money there isnt much you can do to fix it.
I think it would work great. The sag box provides plenty of power. Should be easy to get in a j-yard too, I think most 3/4 and 1 ton Dodge pickups both 2wd and 4wd, gas and diesel came with them in the 97 ish body style I believe all the way up to about 05 or 06. I do recall something about the ford power steering pump not putting out the pressure of the sag pump, but it wasn't much. Only prob I can think of is physically fitting the box between the rad and the engine. I never had the factory rad or engine in mine when I put it in. Easy install, I just boxed the frame and sleeved the mounting bolt holes with D.O.M., bought some longer metric bolts that were the strongest I could get and bolted it in. It drove perfectly the first time I hopped in (minus the death wobble), straight, plenty of power, good manners on and off the road. I had never driven my crew before the sag box, but had put many miles on my dad's 79 4x4 with the push pull steering and hated it when bumps throw the truck all over the road! He had also put in a new Ford steering box and all of the other parts that wear or cause bad steering. Not something I was willing to deal with in a tow rig.
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Old 12-22-2010, 03:16 PM
DieselMike76 DieselMike76 is offline
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Well actually in between sledding I have a few visits lined up with some guys who have parts up there that I need so definitley killing 2 birds with one stone!

I wish i could see your crossmember pics. I changed my approach and scrapping my current idea.

Gonna use some 2x3 .120 wall steel and make a geometry project out of it.

Decided modifying the original looks amateur and not up to par.
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Old 12-22-2010, 03:16 PM
 
 
 
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