okay, so let's go....

new thread.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10740050

 

Thanks Beezil. Have followed you to the new thread. Can you tell me which Ecco kit you bought? I am looking at the 9460 in amber. Also, were you able to reach everything with the 15 foot cables?

 

If you place the power supply "mid ship" as I did using the under-the-seat compartment in my crew cab, it was enough.....

I *may* have used a piece of the wire I didn't use on one of the rears and spliced it in for the opposite front corner.....can't remember. It must not have been too big of a deal.

I put clears up front, but since i used the lower part of the rear taillight, it didn't matter if the other two lights are amber or clear since I installed mine behind a red lens.

 

ok... thought I would bump this thread as I need to perform the surgery to add in the back up alarm switch function.... the main thing that I am not sure about at this point, is where to run a wire from the front of the truck to connect the upfitter switch to the relay...

"There is only a single 18 or 16 ga wire that you need to run from an upfitter lead to the relay (86)...I used the same flex conduit that i ran when I wired up my salter box."

Also, would it be recommended to get some conduit to place this wire in? If you're still subscribed to this thread - I'd appreciate your guidance... thanks again!

 

you can run a wire directly to the upfitter pigtails.

what year is your truck?

seems like ford likes to put them in different places and color code them differently every so often.

mine were underneath the dash in a place that required the most contorted body angle to get and the *******s. I felt like I was playing a game of twister with myself.

conduit....

you certainly don't NEED to use any kind of wire wrap or split seam conduit, but for a rough-duty truck application, you'd probably do better to use some, doesn't add all that much install time, if you run the wire through the conduit first, and just fish the conduit down whatever path you wanna take in the frame rail.

 

What is solution? just another switch?

 

the solution is a relay....which is a switch.

most relays have leads for NC/NO which is "normally closed, normally open"

depending how the relay is wired you can use the upfitter switch to "arm or "disarm" the beeper when the upfitter switch is "on"

of course, this has already been explained IN DETAIL on this thread....

you are quoting a question from page 1....

not to be rude, but if you would have read the subsequent pages in this thread, you would have found the answer to your question....

take care,

beezil

 

Thanks to everyone on this thread, I took in the Hella relay switch and the wiring diagram and had an ASE cert. guy put it all in for me this weekend finally! (As it would have taken me much longer to get it done...) Had him add it to switch #4 as this was the lowest amp switch... not too happy that he didn't put the wire in any conduit though... should this wire be in some conduit?

 

i wouldn't sweat it....

would it be better if the wire was run inside some conduit? sure, maybe....

you could use split and add it later if you want.

is it a problem that the wire is NOT in conduit???

probably not, i'm sure it's fine.

take care

 

Ok, thanks Beezil!

 

I just completed the backup alarm mod. It is very nice. I wired mine so it is normally on and switched off with the upfitter switch (#3). At the same time I installed 2 LED backup lights that are powered by opfitter switch #4. I wired them directly to the upfitter switch with an inline fuse. That way I can turn them on independent of gear selection so I can use them while working behind truck/hooking up trailer etc. I crimped my wires to the upfitter blunt ends and ran them through the main wire loom grommet into the engine compartment. This required pulling the driver-side front wheelwell liner to get access to the main wire loom grommet. My truck has a crewcab as well as an 8 ft bed so snaking the wires between the gas tank and innerframe wall proved challenging. There is a lot of "stuff" packed into that area between the frame and gas tank that kept snagging my fish wire. After that the rest was a snap. Thanks for the mod.
My next project is to wire LED lighting in the bed of my truck. I want to tap into the trucks dome lighting circuit so I will have constant power to the lights. I believe the dome lights have a safety mechanism that shuts off power to the lights when they are accidently left on for a certain time. I want to get that feature on the bedlights as well so I don't drain my batteries. Any ideas where to start?

 

I'm thinking ovavoiding the wiring mess and installing a remote wireless switch. For $12 on line I found a 12V wireless waterproof switch with 2 keyfobs. The only wiring is at the hot lead right at the alarm. Hit the key fob inside the cab anytime I want the alarm on or off. BTW, I dont have the upfitters in my new 2013.

 

Anyone happen to know if this changed at all on the 2017, or still gonna need to run a line from the horn to the upfitter?

 

Fyi, this still applies to 2017.. Only difference is the red wire from the alarm is now white with a brown stripe.

Alarm moved slightly, but is still right next to the tire.

Used same hella relay and schematic in this thread, worked perfectly.