'51 F1, Engine is stalling - Page 2 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
 

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
Log In 


1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

'51 F1, Engine is stalling

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #16  
Old 12-22-2010, 03:14 PM
Sore Knuckles Sore Knuckles is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 92
Sore Knuckles is starting off with a positive reputation.
Had this problem w/ my 56. It ocured whenever I filled up the gas tank. The gas filter would plug w/ rust. Looking into my tank with flashlite, it looked spotless. apparently PO always kept tank 1/2 full. Got a drop lite and dentist mirrror and found the top half of the tank was full of crud.I removed and acid washed the tank, then applied a sealer. I filled the tank and haven't had any more plugging problems. So I'm hoping that at least that problem is fixed

Humpl
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 12-22-2010, 03:47 PM
rashanny's Avatar
rashanny rashanny is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Denver CO
Posts: 62
rashanny is starting off with a positive reputation.
Ironically, I just filled the tank when it happened. Did the problem go away after the fuel has settled for a few days?
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 01-04-2011, 11:20 AM
Sore Knuckles Sore Knuckles is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 92
Sore Knuckles is starting off with a positive reputation.
No.... had to drain tank, acid wash, and add POR 15 sealer. And of course replace fuel filter... So far so good.

Hump
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 01-04-2011, 11:27 AM
ALBUQ F-1's Avatar
ALBUQ F-1 ALBUQ F-1 is online now
postin' fool
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: NM
Posts: 20,749
ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.
Just to be clear, over a 50+ yr period you get more than a little bit of crap... this came out of my glass fuel bowl on the fuel pump, after I started rapping on the fuel lines from the tank. I got 3X as much out of the fuel lines, but only by beating on them with a hammer, off the truck. At which point I ran down to NAPA and bought new internally coated lines.
Attached Images
 
__________________
Ross
1952 F-1 Flat V8 3-on-the-tree, MSD, Rochester 2G, Red's Headers

"Never attribute to malice that which is adequately explained by stupidity" -- Hanlon's Razor
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 01-09-2011, 03:40 AM
rashanny's Avatar
rashanny rashanny is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Denver CO
Posts: 62
rashanny is starting off with a positive reputation.
I just purchased the service manual for the '51 F1, I am assuming it tells me how to remove the tank?? If not, any suggestions would be appreciated. I am assuming it is pretty straightforward, but I'd rather learn from those that have done it in the past.
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 01-09-2011, 07:58 AM
mtflat mtflat is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Kalispell, MT
Posts: 5,298
mtflat has a good reputation on FTE.mtflat has a good reputation on FTE.mtflat has a good reputation on FTE.
The thing above your carb is the oil bath air filter.

Gas tank comes out easily - there are only 2 bolts inside the tool tray that thread into caged nuts. Remove the fuel line on the bottom of the tank. That's it. Lift up and out.

The tank should have a shutoff valve on the bottom of the tank. Leave it on the tank.
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 01-09-2011, 12:47 PM
jb50F1's Avatar
jb50F1 jb50F1 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 219
jb50F1 is starting off with a positive reputation.
For what it's worth, I had a similar problem with my 50 last year. Seemed to be fuel. The truck would idle and then breakdown while driving. Eventually, it stopped altogether. After much searching, the problem was a bad connection at the ignition switch. It was smooth enough at idle to be OK but moved when driving. As the connection moved, the engine broke down because there was not enough juice going to the ignition but it sure acted like a fuel problem. If you don't have luck with the fuel filter, check the voltage and amperage at the coil and the distributor before pulling the tank just to be sure that your problem is not ignition rather than fuel. (It's a lot easier to check voltage and amperage that than to remove the tank).
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 01-13-2011, 06:33 PM
clutch58 clutch58 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 5
clutch58 is starting off with a positive reputation.
also,check for a collapsing rubber fuel hose.
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 01-13-2011, 06:39 PM
ALBUQ F-1's Avatar
ALBUQ F-1 ALBUQ F-1 is online now
postin' fool
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: NM
Posts: 20,749
ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtflat View Post
The thing above your carb is the oil bath air filter.

Gas tank comes out easily - there are only 2 bolts inside the tool tray that thread into caged nuts. Remove the fuel line on the bottom of the tank. That's it. Lift up and out.

The tank should have a shutoff valve on the bottom of the tank. Leave it on the tank.
The only other things are to disconnect the filler hose at the tank, and disconnect the wire from the sending unit. As a practical matter, you have to take the seat out to get to it.
__________________
Ross
1952 F-1 Flat V8 3-on-the-tree, MSD, Rochester 2G, Red's Headers

"Never attribute to malice that which is adequately explained by stupidity" -- Hanlon's Razor
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 01-13-2011, 11:35 PM
mtflat mtflat is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Kalispell, MT
Posts: 5,298
mtflat has a good reputation on FTE.mtflat has a good reputation on FTE.mtflat has a good reputation on FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1 View Post
The only other things are to disconnect the filler hose at the tank, and disconnect the wire from the sending unit. As a practical matter, you have to take the seat out to get to it.
Ha - negatory on the seat. It helps to move it all the way forward, but it doesn't have to come out.

When getting my truck on the road I had the tank out so often it was like working on a pit crew. Think my record was 10 minutes to remove the tank and turn it upside down over a 5 gal bucket to empty it.

A piece of clear plastic label was the cause - couldn't see it in the tank and almost invisible in a bucket of gas. It took a few times to find it.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 01-15-2011, 10:12 AM
clutch58 clutch58 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 5
clutch58 is starting off with a positive reputation.
51 f1

glad you found the problem.
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 08-19-2011, 06:12 PM
rashanny's Avatar
rashanny rashanny is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Denver CO
Posts: 62
rashanny is starting off with a positive reputation.
Hi Everyone-

I am happy to tell you that after flushing the Tank, replacing the Coil, replacing the fuel lines, plugs, distributor, conversion from 6V to 12V and most importantly, REPLACING the FUEL PUMP, my stalling problems have been resolved. Julies Cool thanks for the suggestion. It has been a fun process getting to know my Engine!
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 12-07-2015, 08:31 PM
wibble wibble is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 1
wibble is starting off with a positive reputation.
Thank you to everyone for your suggestions. I have just purchased a restored 1951 Ford F1 and it is having the exact stalling issues as described by everyone. Your suggestions are great. I replaced the carburetor with a new one - same problem. I'm leaning toward the tank, the lines, and the coil. Great information. Thanks.
Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1950 F1 226 engine issue 3twinridges 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 12 05-25-2016 03:49 PM
94 f150 shut off and won't start ***More Issues*** MKLC 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 6 01-16-2016 06:01 PM
Ticking lifter... Thinlizzy13 1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 6 10-11-2015 03:47 PM
Valves will not stay adjusted!...Help? uncs77 1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 10 01-13-2015 07:54 PM
86 F350 Starting Problems unofornaio 1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 19 09-21-2014 06:14 PM


Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks

Tags
239, 51, bowl, driving, engine, flat, flathead, ford, head, sediment, sizes, stall, stalling, stalls

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:45 PM.

 

Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup