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  #16  
Old 12-22-2010, 04:14 PM
Sore Knuckles Sore Knuckles is offline
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Had this problem w/ my 56. It ocured whenever I filled up the gas tank. The gas filter would plug w/ rust. Looking into my tank with flashlite, it looked spotless. apparently PO always kept tank 1/2 full. Got a drop lite and dentist mirrror and found the top half of the tank was full of crud.I removed and acid washed the tank, then applied a sealer. I filled the tank and haven't had any more plugging problems. So I'm hoping that at least that problem is fixed

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  #17  
Old 12-22-2010, 04:47 PM
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Ironically, I just filled the tank when it happened. Did the problem go away after the fuel has settled for a few days?
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Old 01-04-2011, 12:20 PM
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No.... had to drain tank, acid wash, and add POR 15 sealer. And of course replace fuel filter... So far so good.

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  #19  
Old 01-04-2011, 12:27 PM
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Just to be clear, over a 50+ yr period you get more than a little bit of crap... this came out of my glass fuel bowl on the fuel pump, after I started rapping on the fuel lines from the tank. I got 3X as much out of the fuel lines, but only by beating on them with a hammer, off the truck. At which point I ran down to NAPA and bought new internally coated lines.
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  #20  
Old 01-09-2011, 04:40 AM
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I just purchased the service manual for the '51 F1, I am assuming it tells me how to remove the tank?? If not, any suggestions would be appreciated. I am assuming it is pretty straightforward, but I'd rather learn from those that have done it in the past.
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  #21  
Old 01-09-2011, 08:58 AM
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The thing above your carb is the oil bath air filter.

Gas tank comes out easily - there are only 2 bolts inside the tool tray that thread into caged nuts. Remove the fuel line on the bottom of the tank. That's it. Lift up and out.

The tank should have a shutoff valve on the bottom of the tank. Leave it on the tank.
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  #22  
Old 01-09-2011, 01:47 PM
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For what it's worth, I had a similar problem with my 50 last year. Seemed to be fuel. The truck would idle and then breakdown while driving. Eventually, it stopped altogether. After much searching, the problem was a bad connection at the ignition switch. It was smooth enough at idle to be OK but moved when driving. As the connection moved, the engine broke down because there was not enough juice going to the ignition but it sure acted like a fuel problem. If you don't have luck with the fuel filter, check the voltage and amperage at the coil and the distributor before pulling the tank just to be sure that your problem is not ignition rather than fuel. (It's a lot easier to check voltage and amperage that than to remove the tank).
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  #23  
Old 01-13-2011, 07:33 PM
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also,check for a collapsing rubber fuel hose.
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Old 01-13-2011, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtflat View Post
The thing above your carb is the oil bath air filter.

Gas tank comes out easily - there are only 2 bolts inside the tool tray that thread into caged nuts. Remove the fuel line on the bottom of the tank. That's it. Lift up and out.

The tank should have a shutoff valve on the bottom of the tank. Leave it on the tank.
The only other things are to disconnect the filler hose at the tank, and disconnect the wire from the sending unit. As a practical matter, you have to take the seat out to get to it.
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  #25  
Old 01-14-2011, 12:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1 View Post
The only other things are to disconnect the filler hose at the tank, and disconnect the wire from the sending unit. As a practical matter, you have to take the seat out to get to it.
Ha - negatory on the seat. It helps to move it all the way forward, but it doesn't have to come out.

When getting my truck on the road I had the tank out so often it was like working on a pit crew. Think my record was 10 minutes to remove the tank and turn it upside down over a 5 gal bucket to empty it.

A piece of clear plastic label was the cause - couldn't see it in the tank and almost invisible in a bucket of gas. It took a few times to find it.
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  #26  
Old 01-15-2011, 11:12 AM
clutch58 clutch58 is offline
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51 f1

glad you found the problem.
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  #27  
Old 08-19-2011, 07:12 PM
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Hi Everyone-

I am happy to tell you that after flushing the Tank, replacing the Coil, replacing the fuel lines, plugs, distributor, conversion from 6V to 12V and most importantly, REPLACING the FUEL PUMP, my stalling problems have been resolved. Julies Cool thanks for the suggestion. It has been a fun process getting to know my Engine!
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Old 08-19-2011, 07:12 PM
 
 
 
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