Stories or more accurately experiences we share here are NOT "voodoo" bu they are simply what we've each learned by doing this particular task ourselves. If someone suggests proceeding carefully so as to avoid damage then that's something to carefully consider.

That which some find "easy" may be very challenging to others--suggesting otherwise is where "voodoo" begins to be created.

One word of caution is the locking tabs on COP wiring harness connectors is one bit of caution most of us discuss----as any heavy handed DIY driveway mechanic can attest its easy to break them. They don't need to be beefier if someone has paid attention to info we've shared here--no "voodoo" there.

As for torque settings---factory spec is 7-14 ft/lbs with platinum plated plug threads however most of us through experience (and who use nickel-based anti-seize) take them to 21-23 ft/lbs without any problems. No damage to the plug hole threads or coming loose before they're changed again.

One huge "voodoo" myth is the 100K plug change interval. Personally I swap them at 50K because over all reliability is my goal, not saving a few pennies.

 

Should I use anti-seize on a 2003 V10 E450 with the tapered seat spark plugs? Would this have heads with more threads?

 

E-Series never received the 3V heads, at least on the V8 motors and that should be true of the V10's too.

 

well I'll be honest , this is my first super duty and my mechanical skills and patience are limited at best , so I asked our shop mechanic and because mine was a Gov. truck with 40,000 miles , which means a fair amount of idling probably wouldn't hurt to take it in to a trustworthy garage and have them changed as driving styles will be different , truck runs great, and I do understand the "if it isn't broke" theory , but in this case maybe go with "an ounce of prevention"

 

So I'm ready to do mine atter all the reading and 121k miles on what look to be the originals. So are the sp515 plugs the correct ones for a 2008 v10 with an early 2007 build with black boots?
Thanks

 

I'm following this...

 

The 2v heads with more threads are the Performance Improved, PI, heads.
There should be a "PI" below the casting number on the side of the heads.

 

Any aluminum head without a spark plug insert is more susceptible to blowing a plug than a cast iron head.
I think the early Triton motors with 3 or 4 threads were even more likely.
These engines were among the first widely used with aluminum heads and there has been a learning curve.
With more people changing the plugs before 100k and properly torquing them the problems are fewer.

 

Got around to doing my plugs yesterday. SP515 is the correct updated plug for the 3v engine. Cheapest I could find was 9 or so bucks from Amazon and my Ford dealer who gives me a good price. I then found Advance Auto had them and wanted 13 bucks each! I found a coupon code for 40 off 100 and had a 20 speed perks, so I got them for $72 including tax- Great deal.

Before doing this I did a lot of reading and bought the TSB recommended Ford Carb Cleaner and good Motorcraft Dielectric grease. On the way out of parts I walked into the service bay and saw two techs talking. I casually walked up and asked them the best approach (knowing they don't pay to fix what they break) The both told me to get the engine good and hot USE AN IMPACT and do the right side first, install new plugs, warm the engine again and repeat on the left. I laughed and said "I read about that already, but wanted to hear you say it first". So on the way home I called the local NAPA and made sure they had an extractor tool in stock just in case.

So I woke up yesterday, set up my tools, put a socket adapter on my 20V Dewalt 1/4" impact and went after it on my truck with 121,500 miles on original plugs and...... ALL 10 SPUN OUT FREELY! What a relief.
Some of the plugs were so worn, the loop at the ends were either missing or actually swollen and crumbled like rust eats steel. I figure the ones in the front must get the most voltage from some reason. I'm actually surprised the truck ran at all, and ran as good as it did- I just pulled my 5th wheel 2000 miles last month without even a stumble or occasional miss.
So, if youve been reading this thread- try this method, its not scary at all, and if the break, they break. I only had 1 plug where I ran the impact back in a few turns to loosen it up and then it zipped right out.
Here is a few pics for fun:

 

You got your money out of those plugs, truck probably runs like new now.

 

Yeah, I agree. I just got it in July with 114K on it and it ran so good, I figured I'd get to it when I had the time.

 

What year V10's had those plugs?

My 2003 has the regular ones.

 

It's not so much the year.
Those plugs are for V10s with 3 valve heads which started in 2005.
I think the 2005 Excursion still used the 2 valve heads.

 

R&T- you are correct. The 2005 Excursions did use the 2V engines.

 

THANK YOU 68 351 BRONCO !

Just changed my 161,000 mile old plugs today !
Not so bad.
Followed your directions.
NO PROBLEMS !

I did blow out the dirt first, then crack plugs loose, then spray PB Blaster.
Wait 20 min. All plugs came out.

Runs WAY better !

SteveW84RC
White 2000 F250 Crew w/lift and Military 37s (Moby Dick)
Tucson, AZ