I was curious if anyone could tell me if can upgrade/eliminate stock housing? The housing is suspect to me as to point of leak(fuel puddled under housing,pump,turbo) when I removed the inards is was plain to see previous owner neglect base full of junk/gunk when cleaned out found pits in housing. Maybe a sealer someone out there knows about or place to get economical replacement. Also will the fuel heater element being removed keep truck from running. Thanks for looking and any help appreciated.

 

The best thing to do is to convert the whole system to an electric fuel pump. If you are good at fab work its not a bad job. You can piece a system together with a SuperDuty pump for around 550 total. A complete kit is available through Dieselsite (CPR system) and I think beans also has a kit. Search electric fuel on here and there are some good threads of homemade builds. There is a couple of good ones on PSN as well.

 

Well, first of all welcome to FTE. Many folks have used JB weld to repair the pin holes inside the fuel bowl as well as the outside. New bowls are not cheap!

If I recall correctly you can not eliminate the filter housing without upgrading to an entirely different system.

Many of the members have unplugged the heater becuz when it shorts out it blows fuse #22 which causes the truck to stop.

Hope this helps.
Rog

 

thanks the reason I ask about heater is when took apart heater was disbonded from silver plate so I just unplugged it inside housing and have not been able to get truck started since filled housing with fresh fuel when put element in have fuel at shrade valve will only run with ether. I don't know what to do next.

 

First, STOP USING ETHER! If this is the only solution to starting then my best guess would be to start checking glow plugs and their operation. Has this problem existed before you pulled the filter housing? If so did the truck start when it's warm?

Rog

 

the heater being unplugged should not keep it from running, check fuse #22 under the hood, I think that is the fuse for the heater, if it is blown the truck will not run, as far as removing the canister, if can be done, but as mentioned you will need to replace the fuel system to do it, i will see if I can dig up the info I used when I did mine. As a last resort, if you end up needing to replace the bowl I still have mine laying around. PM if it comes to that, but most can be repaired, or it may just be that the hoses under the bowl are leaking

 

I went to local parts store got regular old black fuel hose, that should hold up to diesel fuel, no? The truck was starting just fine before pulling housing. I recently within last weeek replaced all the glow plugs the only thing different is I removed the heater element [unplugged inside housing]. Is there some trick to starting after fuel housing removed, I added fresh fuel to bowl and put filter back, fuse 22 good, when starts on ether or gas rag how long should it take before bleeds self out or do I need to crack a line somewhere. I don't like using ether but was at a lose on how else to restart, also where canI find the block heater plug end so can try preheat the engine a little? It seemed to start a little hard when warm actually had to give a little pedal if I remember right.

 

Gasoline injection rated hose will function but wont last long. SAE 30r9 hose is diesel rated and that is what should be used. Though some will disagree. Suit yourself. The system should bleed off any air by itself. If you can't start the engine without the use of some sort of starting fluid there are other issues. All the correct stuff you need is available in just a few days from dieselorings.com.

 

well its been a couple days have fooled around with truck to no avail, went to parts house got a scan reader no codes even though when do get running on shot of ether and then truck will run at part throttle only to shut down when check engine light comes on, and the light shuts off immediately. The fuel bowl has fuel after shut down, have oil in hpop about 1" below plug, do i need to go back and check glow plugs just changes them recently, can hear relay clicking. The suspect to me is fuel pressure, how much should I have at schrade valve cranking? like I said truck was starting fine untill I tried to fix fuel leak now can't get to go. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. P.S. not to fimiliar with all the acronims is there a link or somebody got picture of engine with names of all the sensors/parts.

 

You should have at least 40 psi cranking.

You didn't happen to knock the wire plug off the ipr did you? It's a connection on the back of the hpop (high pressure oil pump) that could get bumped messing with the fuel bowl. Make sure the tin nut is tight too (don't overtighten it). If I was any good with the computer I'd have a pic for you..

 

If you unplugged the wire going from the fuel bowl to the back of the HPOP (it has a wire clip that secures it), take it and make sure you have a good connection. I have had problems like yours with my truck twice, and both times it was this connection. In fact check that connection to make sure it is not broken or corroded. Mine was in bad shape.

The truck runs on the ether because it goes in with the air and fires with compression. A broken connection or burnt fuse will shut down the system that normally controls the injectors.

Since you are aggravated, now is the time to go to an electric fuel pump and you will get a high when you toss that filter housing into the junk pile!

 

I checked pressure had hardly any, went ahead and replaced mechanical pump. I know get 40 with pulses to 50psi cranking as it still will not start. Have looked at all connections can't locate anything unplugged. Should the pressure bleed off when stop cranking it almost immediately dropps to 20psi then gradually to 0psi. Is there some way to check and see if its fuel problem or electrical problem it won't start or some kind of troubleshooting check list to isolate my problem?

 

If anybody could post or link me picture with id for IPR and ICP and whats the sensor on the upper left side of the fuel filter hsg. also if trucks oil psi sending unit bad would that keep truck from running some kind of safety shut down feature. Need suggestions any help greatly appreciated Thank you

 

have you tryed to clean the screen on the side of the fuel canister. Its where the FPR bolts on towards the top of the canister. You can try to clean it with the filter out from the inside. Or you can un bolt the FPR( fuel pressure regulator) there is a small oring that could break but mine didn't and i've had it off a few times.

 

Yes sir I removed and cleaned screen already, I just came in from garage because keep reading about ICP found a 2 wire bale type retainer connector that is the harness that inplugs on side of filter housing the wires are bare close to connector and one looks to have gotten hot insulation has bubbled look, tried to start with this disconnected still no luck that is the ICP isn't it? and should run disconnected is that not right?