ok so here it its 72 f100 with a 351 modified cleveland in it motorcraft 2bbl 1200 style .. last week truck started and shut off went ok gauge isnt working again so maybe im empty went got gas fired up ran to the gas station decently it was still cold cause i could only get 2 gallons got to the gas station 6 gallons filled the tank im like wtf!!! started toward my fiances moms goin up a hill it kept shutting off and starting again i watched the rpm gauge when it shut off the rpms only went down a little then it fired back up until it completely quit im like ok accelerator pump!! got myself a rebuild kit rebuilt the top end ran decent for a day died i went ok fuel pump!!! replaced it ran decent but when id rev it, it sounded like a drag car with alot of unburnt gas in the pipe just crackling away took it to my works drive ending and ended up sending me sideways for 10 -14 feet , i was like YEAH!!! then i hit 60 mph and it shut off drove it home had to baby the gas could only do 30 rebuilt the WHOLE carb today and all i could get it to do was idle at 500-550rpms for a few tries then i got it to hit 3-3500 rpms but it sputtered the whole time and then it backtracked to 400-550rpms and blows pretty red flames from the carb every so often when you try to start it or hit the gas im like ok condensor points and cap eeeerrr wrong it still runs really low choppy rpms dies after 40-70seconds and has red flames and choughing from the carb. tomorrow im gonna check the butterflys to see if they close right to atomize the gas i was told it could be the timing advance vaccum could be the timing could be a burnt valve could be a thrown rod could be a bad intake gasket im at a loss i need some help or im gonna blow her up ive rebuilt carb put new fuel pump on new gas lines new condensor new points new cap new plugs new wires new ignition coil i might of named her lady luck but this bish has been the unluckiest woman ive ever met

 

I'm not sure. With flames out the carb I am thinking timing. I'd make sure it didn't jump timing due to worn dist gear. Last time I had flames out the carb I was 180 degrees out on timing.

 

I have to agree with the timing being off. Watch the rotation of the rotor. Make sure you have correct timing order. Make sure rotor is pointed at number one. Make sure all spark plug wires are pushed on correctly. Set timing. Adjust timing and carb accordingly.
If you do decide to blow it up, please video tape it.

 

thanks guys im a little confused how the timing magically changed itself but who knows ? its a ford they have a personality all on their own. i took the valve covers off nothing wrong there no bent valves no bent or missing rods or bearrings . and if the timing chain broke it wouldnt do crap and i checked for vacuum leaks around the intake and carb didnt find any so im alot further from blowing it up sorry gangstakr no video for you

 

Timing chains don't normally break. The gears wear and the chain stretches letting the chain jump teeth on the gears. I had a 351M and other engines do it on me. If you replace the timing chain set be sure to get the all metal gears not the plastic crap. It is also possible, but not as likely that the gear on the bottom of the distributor has come loose and is slipping.

 

You could have sheared the roll pin on the distributor causing the timing to be off.

 

I was having similar issues followed the same trouble shooting path and asked the questions here with the same response of timing could be the issue..

They were right... My distributer was shot.. I replaced with an HEI style electronic distributor i found on Ebay.. it was new and only like $50 bucks.. i have had it installed for over a year and no problems..

I did bypass my ignition and routed the power for the coil through a switch... kind of a security measure as well..

 

well found out that the timing issue was my points wasnt tightened all the way (what you get for workin in the dark) but i have them set now at .0040 which .0050 i guess is the max and it doesnt run well but found out that even though i rebuilt the carb its shot it will start it idles but as soon as you try to give it gas it goes caput

 

Also, be aware that a dried up shaft bushing can start to grab and spin the distributor and timing. Check the timing and reset. See if you have an oil port on the shaft and squirt some oil in. Also, oil the felt pad under the rotor.

 

"well found out that the timing issue was my points wasnt tightened all the way (what you get for workin in the dark) but i have them set now at .0040 which .0050 i guess is the max and it doesnt run well but found out that even though i rebuilt the carb its shot it will start it idles but as soon as you try to give it gas it goes caput "

I believe that the points should be .016 or .017. If you actually have them at .0040 they are way to close if you have them at .040 they are to wide. I would reccommend putting in a duraspark electronic ignition and get rid of the points.

 

sorry it was at .016 i was looking at the wrong side of my gapping tabs they are double sided its wierd i dont remember where i got them but one end is one size the other is a different size but yea its def the carb cause it will start and idle now but you give it gas and it chokes out and spits up gas. and cougar id oil the shaft and pad if i could get the damn distributor out of my block im not worried about it now cause im looking to rebuild the motor next summer il get it out then.....with my trusty sledgehammer hehehe just kidding im gonna get a block of wood and set on the gear and a little hammer im not crazy...okk i am crazy if you really wanna know cause the motor is getting bored stroked cammed port and polished dished pistons low compression head holly highrise intake holly 600cfm doublepumper hooker headers modified to fit twin subaru turbos