adding engine block heater to 5.4
#1
12-10-2010, 10:17 AM
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12-10-2010, 10:33 AM
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12-10-2010, 10:42 AM
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12-10-2010, 10:48 AM
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12-10-2010, 10:52 AM
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#8
12-10-2010, 11:18 AM
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#10
12-10-2010, 10:09 PM
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This is what I did this summer. I have yet to use it but it tested out great. I used to run a hose heater on my last truck but I was nervous with the way the lower radiator twists. It worked out great and I would do it again in a heart beat.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...t=block+heater
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...t=block+heater
#11
12-10-2010, 11:18 PM
#12
12-11-2010, 02:20 AM
Or the OEM approach...
Heater/Element Assembly (MSRP $27.48): F7UZ-6A051-BA
Wiring Assembly (MSRP $78.63): 1C3Z-6B018-BA
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12-11-2010, 11:01 AM
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#14
12-11-2010, 07:36 PM
It is not bad at all:
1. Drain the coolant from the engine block.
2. Remove the soft plug with a hammer/ punch/ screwdriver/etc. Try to just knock it sideways in the hole, instead of into the coolant jacket (although it is not a big deal if you do). This makes it so you can put pliers on the edge of the plug to pull it out.
3. Clean the bore of the softplug hole with some fine emery cloth (like 320 grit) as necessary to remove water scale, rust, or debris and rought spots from the bore. This is important.
4. Apply a small amount of oil or grease to the o-ring of the new heater element. Do not apply sealant as it DOES NOT help in the sealing process. Lubricant just prevents cutting the o-ring as it goes in the bore.
5. Insert the heater in the hole. Make sure the element part of the heater is not touching any part of the block once installed. Vibration from touching the block will eventually break the element.
6. Torque the center screw of the element to the SPECIFIED TORQUE, usually around 15-25 inch pounds. Overtightening is the most common cause of failure, with undertightening following a close second. Too tight squishes the o-ring out, and under tightening does not seal the o-ring to the bore.
7. Route your cord, fill it with coolant, done.
These are really easy to install, we do about 50 of them a year through our shop. The work really reliably as well. Good luck!
1. Drain the coolant from the engine block.
2. Remove the soft plug with a hammer/ punch/ screwdriver/etc. Try to just knock it sideways in the hole, instead of into the coolant jacket (although it is not a big deal if you do). This makes it so you can put pliers on the edge of the plug to pull it out.
3. Clean the bore of the softplug hole with some fine emery cloth (like 320 grit) as necessary to remove water scale, rust, or debris and rought spots from the bore. This is important.
4. Apply a small amount of oil or grease to the o-ring of the new heater element. Do not apply sealant as it DOES NOT help in the sealing process. Lubricant just prevents cutting the o-ring as it goes in the bore.
5. Insert the heater in the hole. Make sure the element part of the heater is not touching any part of the block once installed. Vibration from touching the block will eventually break the element.
6. Torque the center screw of the element to the SPECIFIED TORQUE, usually around 15-25 inch pounds. Overtightening is the most common cause of failure, with undertightening following a close second. Too tight squishes the o-ring out, and under tightening does not seal the o-ring to the bore.
7. Route your cord, fill it with coolant, done.
These are really easy to install, we do about 50 of them a year through our shop. The work really reliably as well. Good luck!
#15
12-12-2010, 12:50 AM
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I can say that I am bias to this post because a hose heater may leach heat off to the radiator but my hood on my last truck never ever held snow on it which means that the engine compartment was above freezing.(Ideal conditions) I can say that the frost plug heater in my particular motor is a great choice because there is not place to put a hose heater that allows gravity to circulate the heat through the motor like it should. Oh and the install was as easy as it gets! Read my above post for more details!