Anyone have experience replacing the belt tensioner or idler pully on an 08 Escape 4 cylinder?

I took it into the dealer today for a check engine light and a tire pressure sensor light. The check engine light was a P0172 System Too rich Bank 1 (I think that's my code reader said). The service writer also noticed that the engine had a whine to it. I had noticed that, but hadn't paid much attention to it.

They fixed the trouble code (large amount of debris in the MAF) and replaced a tire pressure sensor which came to ~$400 for those two including diagnostic fees. Apparently, the whine was coming from either the belt tensioner or the idler pulley and they wanted another ~$350 to replace those. Since I wasn't prepared to spend $750 today, I declined that repair.

How hard is it to replace one or the other? I haven't studied it yet (its still at the dealer), but I wouldn't think it would be too difficult??

Thanks,

John

 

I guess I'll follow up on my own post in case anyone else has to do this. It was actually very easy.
1. Jack up front passenger side and remove wheel/tire.
2. Remove plastic lower shield that covers inner wheel well and front underneath corner. There's five 10mm screws and one Phillips head screw.
3. Use socket and breaker bar to release tension while sliding serpentine belt off the smooth pulley just above the tensioner pulley.
4. Remove two 10mm screws holding tensioner assembly to engine block.
5. Replace tensioner.
6. Replace belt.
7. Replace plastic sield and wheel/tire.

Total time about 1.5 hrs taking it slow.

The biggest aggrevation was trying to get the belt back onto all the pulleys. The max travel on the tensioner just gives you enough slack to get the belt on and not a millimeter more. That's why it was easier to get the belt on the grooved tensioner pulley and then work it over the smooth idler pulley.

There's also a idler pulley (smooth) which can sometimes go bad. I went ahead and replacd that one as well. The original dealer wanted $102 for the tensioner and $80 for the idler but I called another dealer and got the tensioner for $80 and the idler for $30 after asking for a discount. So it pays to shop around.

After the repair I was startled at how quiet it was. I guess I gotten used to the whine

John

 

giles thanks for posting this mini-DIY. My uppermost/frontmost pulley bearing went bad last night and obviously I'm going to need the belt off to change that out.

 

No problem! Glad it helped.

John

 

Speaking of this repair I got my new pulley today:



The part number is 8L8Z3F671A. I was wondering if anyone with a repair manual handy could tell me the torque value on the 3 bolts that hold this to the motor. I figure it's not a good part to guess on!

Thanks all!

 

giles what nut am I hitting to release tension? Is it the center 'bearing' nut...or is there a release mechanism off to the side? Thx man.

 

Bump! Come on guys...no one has a Chilton manual?

 

Ford Workshop Manual states 25 Nm or 18 lb-ft.

If you haven't figured it out yourself yet, it's the nut off to the side, turning it clockwise releases the belt tension.

 

Yer da man Bill. Greatly appreciated!

No time to do it until the weekend. Just driving one of my other cars for the time being.

 

giles thanks for posting this mini-DIY.

 

Got my pulley in today. It really was a piece of cake especially with the info. in this DIY. Only thing I needed to finish was the lug bolt torque. Just so happens to be in the manual. 100 lb/ft just in case anyone needs it.

Thanks again everyone. Pulled this off for $50 for the part.

 

Thread revival! I have a "grumbling" in this area of my car recently. When this part failed on my car the last time it was a bit more "whiny" than it was "grumbly." Also last time I popped the hood and could see a faint red glow at the bearing from the heat build up.
Before I order this part again can anyone think of anything else right in this area that would produce a grumbling sound? I suppose if it's not this pulley again it could be one of the others. No idea how to prove which one it is. The sound is so generalized it's really hard to pinpoint it. Car has 16X,XXX now. It probably had 1/2 that when I did this pulley.
Oh and the part is $86 now not $50. Same family member source.

 

Bah. Mechanic is calling water pump this time. Sure hope we have a DIY here. Looks easy enough.

 

McN:Also last time I popped the hood and could see a faint red glow at the bearing from the heat build up.

If you are seeing a 'glow', be concerned. Strange things happen when these kind of parts get that hot. Axle shafts break and all the other parts go scrambling around trying to get out from under the hood, and the belt usually tries to save itself from road rash by wrapping around something and hanging on for dear life. A 'glow' is really not something to ignore for any length of time.
That said, you can go through the de-tension routine you did before, and then turn each item to choose which one is getting sacrificed... They all, tensioner pulley, water pump, and idler, should be smooth and easy to turn. If any one is rough, or has 'easy' and 'hard' spots, its bearing is likely ruined. Some have replaced just the bearings as depending on design, they can be driven out and a new pressed in place. It is a handy solution when things start to get old enough they no longer stock parts at the local store.
tom

 

Thanks tomw. I worded my post poorly. When I said 'red glow last time' I meant 5-6 years ago. That highest towards the front pulley is not glowing this time sadly. Quite a simple swap that part.
My guy is sure it's the WP. I was there when he diagnosed and agree with his reasoning. Also I did a visual on it yesterday right before I ran out for the parts and could see the faintest of wobbles on the WP pulley w/ the car running. Also the belt (original with 162k!) is not running centered on the WP pulley anymore.
The belt is tracking a few millimeters off-center towards the front passenger tire. I can see polished metal where it used to run. To me that suggests the pulley is tilting down a degree or two. I just went out to change the WP myself and now my child will be home at 11am vs. 6pm. Oh well. Will just let my guy do it. Was quoted 1-2 hrs labor at $80/hr. I can live with that.