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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks




 
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Old 12-09-2010, 11:11 AM
bc18 bc18 is offline
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1995 f150 performance mods

i have a 1995 f150 5.8l e40d trans. i want some to put some performance parts on it but i cant seem to find much. are there any intake manifolds or headers. what are some really good performance modifications i could run and still pass smog

and its a 351 winsor
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Old 12-09-2010, 01:42 PM
jakehog jakehog is offline
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Summit and/or Jegs offer headers and exhaust kits, K&N sells an improved air intake tract, and Edelbrock sells an intake called a 5.8 Performer, it's expensive and probably doesn't do much on an otherwise stock engine. Also BBk sells larger throttle bodies.
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Old 12-09-2010, 02:21 PM
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any other mods i could do thanks for the reply
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Old 12-09-2010, 02:34 PM
Lazy K Lazy K is offline
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http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/91...get-first.html have a read through the thread in this link.
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Old 12-10-2010, 06:16 AM
TexasGuy001 TexasGuy001 is offline
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I would not waste any money on any of these products. CAI, KN, snake oil spark plugs, throttle body spacers etc.

The factory air intake is fine, it flow wells enough for the 460. The 4.9/7.5 lower intake tube is better than the 5.0/5.8 tube though.

I had the KN FIPK crap on mine and its just a hot air intake that was poor quality. It did not seal up at the throttle body at all. Mine was not the only one like this. My friend had the same setup with the same problem. Also, oiled filters are not a great idea.

My truck runs better and gets better fuel economy with the stock air box.

The truck intake actually works quite well and there is really no need to upgrade it, unless the motor has been build up significantly with a cam and heads etc.

The larger throttle body is fine on a built motor, but on a stock motor it won't be of much use.

Headers along with a good flowing exhaust with a straight through muffler would be a good idea. I will advise that if the truck has alot of miles on it not to go that route though. Many people have broken off bolts in the heads. I would only consider headers on a new or low milage engine.
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:05 AM
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Long tube headers with a good flowing exhaust , don't worry about the bolts breaking , they don't allways , if they do then you just have to deal with it , you won't gain alot with exhaust & stock manifolds , 1.7 rockers will give the cam more lift , a good tune up with autolte copper plugs , some good wires , and coil like MSD will help with the spark , bump the timing up a few degress from 10 deg BTDC to like 14 , Get a good flowing air filter , gears ? depending on tire size & what gearing you have now , All this stuff will make your truck perform muth better than stock , these are the simple things to do .....Lew
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Old 12-10-2010, 06:48 PM
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so what are some really good headers that will still get me by smog cause im in orange county california
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Old 12-10-2010, 06:54 PM
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California ??? sorry the only thing i can think of is move
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Old 12-12-2010, 04:21 AM
TexasGuy001 TexasGuy001 is offline
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In that case I think your limited to 50 state legal shorties.
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Old 12-12-2010, 08:32 AM
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If you want more power, you might do better with finding yourself a 95 or 96 460 EFI out of the junkyard, and swapping over the bigger engine in place of yours. It will give you 100+ more cubes which of course, will give you 100+ more cubes worth of power.

Cali does allow enigne swaps however they limit you to same year or newer engines. THEN you add your 50-state legal headers and various other go-fast goodies starting with a more potent platform.

Of course a full-out engine/EFI swap is far more of a pain in the *** than bolting on some headers.
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:03 AM
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Since your in wonderful CA there are few things you need to know. Which ever part you put on that is visible you need to make sure it is CARB compliant for that year. An example of why this is important I put in a set of Crane roller rockers (1.7 ratio) on my 94 302 and it had the Carb # unfortunately the Carb # only applied to 92 and earlier 302 motor - go figure, same motor. It appears Carb changed teh ruling on how to monitor the changes and Crane felt the cost to do the testing was not worth it. Since it was hidden I just remove the sticker and said it was stock - so much for doing the right thing...
I put shorties on and they do make a difference. Just find one that is recommended by other people that say they really do fit out of the box. Mine needed some "special fitting" (hammer and punch) to clear some area, so ceramic coatings were a waste since they needed to be painted after the special modes.
If you are handy the biggest gain I recieved was doing a minor porting and polishing on the heads. You have E7 heads which are pretty good but they do have a smog bump that reduces the flow through the exhaust. Never ported before so I picked up some used heads ($50) so I could port them and do a valve job while still driving the truck. Best layed plans do not always work - weekend swap turned into a month down time - worked out in the end. It actually was fun and meditative porting the heads. I did end up buying new springs ($100) because the used ones were shot.
I like the roller rockers but since this a truck I would suggest the stock roller rockers 1.6 ratio vs the 1.7 I picked up. Since the 1.7 ratio really doesn't do much until you get into higher RPM it did not help where I needed the power most - at lower RPM for towing.
I have a K&N setup and do fell it helps.

Wayne
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:03 AM
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