Now that I doing some night/early morning driving, besides having dim low beams (still using 6-volt system), I think my dimmer switch needs to be replaced. When I press the button, it goes from Dim to Bright but when I hit the button again to go back to dim...the lights go out and I have to hit the switch several times to get dims. Tonight I will check the wire connections to ensure they are clean and tight but it sure sounds like my dimmer switch has given up the ghost. I may go ahead and replace the headlamp bulbs as well but realize 6-volts do tax how much brightness is delivered.

While I am here, on my drive to work, I hit a small rain shower and although my 6-volt electric wipers worked, they are pretty slow! Is this ops normal for these to behave this way? I though about shooting some lithium grease on the linkage under the dash as well. Thanks. Steve

 

Ha! Happened to me about a month ago. Checked the switch, there is nothing you can do to clean it or anything (unless the connections are loose), and after an exciting episode where the lights went away out in the styx on a curve, I decided to just replace it. NAPA had an exact replacement, P/N DS105, for $20 and in stock. Same switch was used '48 - '56.

On the wipers, it would pay to take the whole system out, and take off the plate on the "transmission" portion. It gets filled with grease (to a point) and the grease gets old and hard. Clean it out and re-grease, see if that helps.

 

I tell you what...that's a bad feeling going down a dark road-especially using 6-volt headlights! I called NAPA and will be picking up a replacement dimmer switch on the way home.

With the wipers, I'll look into that but I bet it's a son-of-a-gun to reach way up there under the dash!

 

6 volt or 12 both put out the same candel power on the road in front of you ... however the lower voltage dosen't overcome resistance in related parts as well as 12 volt does... best thing is to actually test at the headlight sockets to see just what voltage your getting.. rusty connections/tired internal contacts in the main switch and the high low dimmer can cut actual voltage to the lights by a lot ... had a 59 VW buss that was only getting 3 volts to the lights when i got it ... talk about dims!!! check and clean ground wires.. test with both headlamps hooked up as you need to have the system loaded to get a true reading.. every connection counts as even 1 volt can make a differance

 

The headlamps going out when the dimmer switch is activated is a common problem on all Ford products thru the 1990's.

The same switch was used 1948/56 (A8AZ13A024A) / 1957/60 (B7AZ13A024A) / 1961/96 (COTZ13A024A).

 

Thanks and I will certainly make those checks as well. I'm hoping that the new dimmer switch will save the day but nevertheless will check grounds, connections, etc. Steve

 

Welcome back! Been on vacation?

 

Another thing to check is the pivots. Mine were nearly stuck, they need to be oiled regularly, but who thinks to do that? No way to do that except to pull the pivot out.

 

Pivots? Are these inside the motor?

 

No, the part that the wiper blades attach to.

 

Good morning. Thought I would share an update. After cleaning the rusty terminal rings that connected to the dimmer switch, I installed the new one from NAPA. Wow-what a difference! Besides having brighter lights, the new switch works as advertised. Thanks to all for the tips. Steve

 

EXCELLENT!

It's amazing what a good working switch and clean contacts will do for current flow!

 

I suppose this belongs more in the "shoot yourself in the foot" thread as much as here, but...

When I pulled my switch out to replace it, I found that 8 yrs ago when I re-wired it, I recognized the vulnerable spot the switch is in (to dirt and water) so I took a tube of RTV and completely goobered the end of it with the connections and terminals. Let me tell you, that is some tough stuff to remove!! The terminals were spotless, tho. I was tempted to do it again with the new switch, but I could clean the terminals 4 or 5 times in the time it took me to dig that RTV off.

 

Yeah, ours are exposed on the back side of the firewall - so ya gotta do something, but it's kind of in an obnoxious place to get to.

And I don't have any inner fenders either with the full front tilt. So, I was suprised when I took that picture the other night (for Steves other post) how clean the switch still was after 17K miles now.