How hard it is to turn the yoke after the nut is tightened. Just wiggle it back and forth after each increment of tightening until there is A LITTLE DRAG on it, that's all there is to it but the nut has to be tight at that time also.

 

I'm DONE with this thread, I give valuable info and I get opposition so good luck.

 

Jeff, on Powerblock TV, Ian reviews the process. Not exactly our situation, but he explains it well. Let me try to find that episode for you.

 

I have never reused a crush sleeve; is that really a good idea?

 

You can pound the rib down a bit and it will be like new.

 

You have the wrong thread, Brent.

You've confused this thread that has zero friction, with the other thread where people are posting differing opinions.

Stewart

 

No, I just wanted to help this one guy out with his inquiry about re-using a crush sleeve to re-instate pinion drag.

 

In my case it worked great, musta been a little crush left in her!

 

Usually you can use the old one like it is because it has some springiness to it and as the bearings wear that also gives you more crush sleeve length, also you could put a shim or washer on the end of it and squeeze er' some more. As long as the nut gets tight that's all you need and the ONLY purpose of the crush sleeve is to give the nut something to tighten against. You could actually take the sleeve out and use lock-tight on the nut and it would probably stay good.

 

Was on a very cool Intl Scout 800A (7:37) .

'69 International Scout Part II | Xtreme 4x4 | PowerBlockTV - Full Episodes

 

Ok, but like I said, you're not getting any opposition here in this thread, unless I'm blind and can't see the post you're referring to, so like I said, you're confusing this thread with the other thread where people are disagreeing with you.

Stewart

 

Thanks that was interesting, I have watched many of his shows. That rear end was a pain to work on, most of them in those days had the easy crush sleeve and large nut like adjusters for the ring gear side to side adjustment, and very few shims anywhere, and nobody made actual ring and pinion adjustment solution (we used red lead or Prussian blue). The only "major" change in the rear ends in at least 70 years is the addition of the tone ring and now they have terms like "pumpkin" and "diff" but back then it was "banjo" and "third member". The pattern from the solution trumps all the specs that can be applied to the rear end. What most people don't realize is that the drag on the pinion soon disappears as it gets worn in and they get too deep into pinion drag specs. The only purpose of the drag is to make sure you got the bearings snug enough to start with. I have seen them with lots of miles on them with the pinion so tight you could barely turn it by hand but most used rear ends have zero drag left in them.

 

The old man gives good advice. Old school mechanics are hard to find these days.

The advice Brent gives is the same advice I get from a veteran mechanic at my friend's auto shop. When I did my pinion seal, I did all the work. When it was time to tighten the nut, I asked for help. The mechanic who specialize in rear ends checked the drag and tighten the nut with a few bursts of impact gun.

EDIT: Maybe he might have measured drag with inch/pound if I would've paid him.

 

Maybe I got my threads mixed up but there are a couple guys that seek me out just to antagonize me..................they aren't in here yet.

 

I'm just playing lol.