The Ball on my Spindle Arm is slightly worn and since I've rebuilt my Drag Link and have a new Pitman Arm, I thought it might make sense to change it. The sucker is seriously staked in place.
I note that the exploded view of the assembly shows a tapered part (PN 3131) that is held in place with a Castle Nut and Cotter Pin. Has anybody replaced one of these and if so, was the hole tapered or did you have to have it taper-reamed?
The Parts CD says that F-1's, '48 - '52, had an integral ball. '53 -on and some of the heavier '48-'52's had ***** that were replaceable. Does yours have a castle nut? Not like the Parts CD is always right.
1952 F-1 Flat V8 3-on-the-tree MSD, Rochester 2G, Red's Headers
“It’s really hard to make predictions, especially about the future.” -- Yogi Berra
Glad to hear yours is ok, i had to drill out and ream mine. Then weld in a new ball. I guess i could have also rethreaded for the new ball, hind site is always 20/20. oh well it will out live me. ha ha! (jimmy)
Just run any old bolt through the hole, drop the drag link on it and make several wraps around teh whole mess with some bailing wire andhead out onto the freeway.....you'll be fine.
You can press them out easy enough. When I built my steering I made made my own link between the pitman arm and the steering arm using the Toyo parts. I ended up pressing out the Ford ball stud and using the Toyo ball stud.
I think I've seen the ball stud inseveral catalogs from the usual vendors, LMC, etc
__________________ ...Someday our foes may win... ...but NOT today!!
1949 F1, 500ci Caddy
1967 Jeepster Commando
1994 Harley Road King
I recently replaced one on a 52 F1. First, I ground off the bottom of the ball stud flush with the spindle arm, then drilled it out. Next, I pressed in the new one, heated the bottom that protruded through the arm and star-brad it with a chisel/punch. I found it at Early Ford of California decently priced.
2x 1956 F100 Custom Cab
2003 Eddie Bauer Expedition
2004 Mustang 40th Annv Ed
56 stock front suspension, would "wulleebullee" way be the way to go for me? The new stud has a steering axel splines look a like so a figure it needs to be pressed in and then heated and "forged" to lock it in?
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