I've been told by multiple machinists including an engine overhaul teacher of mine that the motors that require you to check lash when hot may give you accuracy trouble. By the time you get to the other side of the motor, it's been cooled down, etc.

I want to check my 223's when it's cold, it only makes sense that it's the most accurate. But the only spec I found is for when hot........? .019"

Does anyone know what the valve lash should be when cold? Just the whereabouts?

Thank you very much.

 

You may want to check in with those guys in the Inline 6 section of FTE if you don't get a good response.If you have a chance,check out Col. Flashmans' gallery for what can be done to those motors,very impressive.

 

As I recall, the lash closes up a little when hot, because the valve stems grow the most in length. Net change is not likely to be more than .002" or so, so go a little loose and run it til warm, check and go from there. "Hot" doesn't need to be steaming hot, just enough that the oil is up to temp. I can't believe it wouldn't be good enough to drive it 15-20 minutes around town, pull in the driveway, pull off the valve cover and set them to Hot spec. That's a pretty loose spec, by the way, they must clatter a lot.

 

cold metal contracts, hot expands. that's the reason for hot adjust. so--if you do them cold, put them at .020 then let her get hot. then re-adjust at least one time. there are 12 valves, unless it takes 2-3 hours, there should be no issue with them getting cold. (they may get (cool), but will still have enough heat that they are expanded) i have a flat 8 with adjustables, and i can do this in about 1 hour, and i have to take the entire top off my engine. once you have done this a few times, you get the hang of it. go for it!

 

OK, I'll attack this later today. Oh, and wouldn't you know it that the shop manual has exactly what I need, cold and hot specs.

Albuq--Sure enough, the book says not only is it .019" when hot, but that the "preliminary" setting that you do with the engine cold is also .019"!

Very weird motor. Thanks everyone!!!

 

You may find it easier to check with a go-no go feeler gauge. They have a stepped blade where the one you'd use to check for .019 would read .018-.020. It would fit loosely at first then go no further if adjusted correctly. It would take a matter of seconds to run down the row of valves using that method, and adjust the ones you need to accordingly.

 

The only thing is you have to rotate the engine 6 times, unless the manual has the "shortcut" list -- which valves are closed at each of 3 positions. Mark the damper first it saves a lot of time. (every 120 deg.)

My dad had a tool for adjusting the valves while the engine was running! It was a screwdriver with a **** to turn it, and a handle that would loosen/tighten the lock nut. It was spring loaded so it would follow the adjuster up and down. Didn't seem like a great idea, what with mechanical fans and oil going all over, but supposedly the concept was you could set them right to where they made minimal noise when truly hot.

 

^I might need a new feeler gauge, if so, I'll get the go-no-go one. I just don't think it's absolutely needed.

I hope I get to this today.

 

does anyone have the spring loaded rockers on their 223 or was that a car only item.

 

Without getting into a HUGE yea or nea discussion here is my view.

A USED engine (223 6cy) rocker lash .019" when set to these specs will actually be looser than .019" due to the fact that the valve stem has worn itself into the rocker and when checking with feeler blades they are wider than the valve stem wear spot.

I have (somewhere) a service bulletin from ford showing the use of the PG Gapper tool

Basically you follow the manual instructions and this tool is like a dial indicator to view the TOTAL lash including wear spots.

I know clear as mud but just trying to save you some head aches because you'll do it by the book with feeler blades and in reality they will be looser and still making noise.

 

Like bigwin56f100 says valve stem to rocker wear can make a feeler gauge almost useless. I know from doing tons of aircooled VWs, Your almost better setting them by " feel" if you don't have a dial indicator. I used to check my VWs at oil changes and after a few times i could "feel" check them in about 3 min.

 

The engine is newly rebuilt, all new valvtrain. So that's not an issue yet.

 

Here's a good FTE link...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...tructions.html

 

Wow, that is amazing knowledge to have(post #9). Awesome. Thanks Albuq.

 

Checked clearance. There was either little or no clearance on most valves. only two were correct. So I reset them correctly.

Did nothing. It idles lower and smoother now, but still not completely right, and still..............the truck will not idle with fully open choke.

And now it's doing something it didn't used to do: hesitate when given gas. In fact, it smokes black only when given gas. i was told to lean it out, so with the mixture screw, I did.

I can SEAT the screw, and the truck purrrrrrrrrrrrrs. Yeah, that's perfectly normal.:rolls:



This truck just keeps getting better. Yeah, that's what I should keep telling myself.(I am madder than hell right now) Typical.



Thanks for the input everyone.