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  #1  
Old 11-29-2010, 08:01 PM
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nothercrash nothercrash is offline
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Paint job for a grand?

OK, so, you careful readers out there may remember about 6 months ago I posted on this board, asking for advice on painting my truck, because I was almost there in my build. Well, that was before the engine blew up.

6 months later (now), the engine is replaced, and once again, I am back at that final stage, when people might juuust begin to realize that my truck is not 32 years OLD, it is 32 years experienced, and aged like a fine gas guzzling wine, and something that has really taken some work: paint time.

The only differences between now and then though, are that it is now winter, and I now have an engine sized hole in my paint job budget.

SO, I am interested in people's opinions on what I should do. I'm trying to keep the whole deal under 1000$. I would like to paint it myself, but because I am for once in my life having to settle down and be realistic, I have gotten past that want. I don't have the time right now, I don't have heat in my garage, and even if I did, it is attached to my house, and I have been advised against spraying in there by everyone I've asked.

I am looking for a one main color, one accent color job I THINK. How can I get the best (most protective AND best looking) paint job, for under 1G, done at a shop? Do I try to do final bodywork (metal is done, just filling and blocking), do I disassemble everything and drive a cab and chassis over to the shop, do I just take apart the nose, where do I go and what do I ask for?

If anyone could shed any light on this issue, it would be very much appreciated, my truck is rusting into the driveway as we speak... Thanks, AleX
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  #2  
Old 11-30-2010, 08:01 AM
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The only way I can see you getting it done for that price, is find a local tech school teaching autobody and either enroll, or see if they will take it for the students to learn on. Even MAACO will run more than that doing filler work.
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  #3  
Old 11-30-2010, 12:30 PM
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It's too bad u don't live a little closer. I'd paint it for a grand. A lot of my work going out is for about that much for paint and minor body work. I think its easier to assemble the truck then send it in as assembly always includes things not fit proper for some reason and things get bumped that can lead to light damage. I would do as much work as possible to it as every hour u dollar u spend will save u ten in the big name shops. I think theres is a old thread "before and after" by Fordby4 with a nice Maaco job that turned out well.
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  #4  
Old 12-03-2010, 12:00 AM
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seventysevenF150, Where In B.C are you? How busy are you this winter?
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  #5  
Old 12-04-2010, 01:47 AM
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Elderstarr, im just north of the Loops in McLure. I've got a few things going on this winter, but nothing special. What do you need done, what kind of vehicle, where are you?
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  #6  
Old 12-04-2010, 02:27 AM
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I think your best shot at getting a nice job for that kind of money is to do the bodywork yourself, then buy a base/clear kit online, and find an auto painter on craigslist that will shoot it if you tape and prep it.

You can get base/clear kits online from www.thecoatingstore.com or TCPs www.customshops.com for less than $200 and it comes with color and clear. They both have a lot of good reviews on ebay. I've used product from both companies and it works well. The Kembase product from thecoatingstore acts just like House of Kolor to me at like half the price. Eastwood also sells paint if you want to go the single stage route but base clear looks so much better to me in the long run.

We have used craigslist to advertise some locally since it is free so there are likely some others in your area doing the same. Ask for some references or examples of their work.

Be sure to buy the products yourself or sometimes the budget painters will
use bottom of the barrel stuff so they can make a little more. When you buy it yourself you know what quality you are getting.

Good luck!
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  #7  
Old 12-04-2010, 06:23 PM
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If you decide to do the body work & buy your own Paint , don't be surprised if a body shop is not excited about "you bringing your own eggs to the restaurant ". The only way you can control the price ,is to do it all yourself ...A two tone finish plus body work for under a grand is a joke ...


You cannot even buy quality materials for a complete for a grand ...Better go to maaco ....(and be willing to settle for what you get)...

Just so you know , 'most professionals" ,are not willing to sign their name to someone elses work ...
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  #8  
Old 12-10-2010, 04:32 AM
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Why not do a roll on paint job?

http://www.rickwrench.com/index79mas...llarpaint.html
Here is an example of a rolled on paint job.
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  #9  
Old 12-10-2010, 07:16 AM
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I'd second the auto tech school way i took my uncles truck there and let them have at it the instructor even showed me work from the students and i got to pick which ones i liked and he gave his opinion and we went from there to get the better outta the class. granted it took a while but it came out great. If you go to Maaco check up on their work alot of shops out there and they're all diffrent some are good some suck, i got bit by a bad one, not good at working with metal seems they like plastic tho cause they do all the airport taxi's.
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Old 12-11-2010, 10:18 AM
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Out of curiosity...how much body work needs to be done yet? In my opinion, especially with base clear, shooting it is the easy part, attached garage or not.
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Old 12-11-2010, 11:08 AM
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If you are staying with the factory color, Maaco should fit your budget if you do the bodywork. If the jambs and underhood need painting, it will be over $1k. In my experiences with Maaco, they do good paintwork, bodywork not so much. They are all individually owned, so you don't know what you'll get from franchise to franchise. I've seen nice work come out of the Middletown, CT shop. Or wait til spring, and do it in the driveway. Good luck.
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Old 12-11-2010, 11:35 AM
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No offense meant but, sometimes doing your own body work and prep may not be up to a fussy painters standards. Friend was quoted $4000 for paint base-clear with him doing prep. Close to $6000 was final bill due to painter re-doing work. Ditto on vocational schools, guy down the road had local school do his Blazer for $400 in materials. Looks good for 2nd year in the salt. Personally, I'd do it myself. $50 paint gun, a good mask and go for it. For a novice a single stage system would probably be easiest (no clear coat). Good luck.
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Old 12-11-2010, 11:48 AM
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seventysevenF150... the truck's in Armstrong. It's filled, blocked and primed with 2k Urethane (can't remember brand, have to find recept). Maybe 1 or 2 chips that may need filling/fixing. It's sitting indoors right now. Something came up and I couldn't afford to get it painted right away, and been sitting in primer since May. Should it be re-primed? Would it be best to epoxy prime it?

I can drive it there... once I bolt a seat in.
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Old 12-13-2010, 02:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elderstarr View Post
seventysevenF150... the truck's in Armstrong. It's filled, blocked and primed with 2k Urethane (can't remember brand, have to find recept). Maybe 1 or 2 chips that may need filling/fixing. It's sitting indoors right now. Something came up and I couldn't afford to get it painted right away, and been sitting in primer since May. Should it be re-primed? Would it be best to epoxy prime it?

I can drive it there... once I bolt a seat in.
Elderstarr, It would be best to work with a fresh coat of primer, and yes, an epoxy sealing primer would be a good idea.. I'm sure there will be a few more chips from the drive. What is your color/two-tone scheme? Solid, metallic? Any pics of the truck?
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Old 12-17-2010, 12:01 AM
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Just hold off til the weather turns nice and shot it out and do 2 stage I did my first 2 stage on the bronco in my avitar I love it two stage will make you throw rocks a single stage. I shot mine in the driveway in late August I had right around $900 in it and a good deal of that was sand paper plus I did metal flake so it took twice as much clear.
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Old 12-17-2010, 12:01 AM
 
 
 
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