So, Thanksgiving started out with a puddle of diesel under the truck. After investigation it appears the old fuel tank selector cracked due to cold weather (by cold, vegas 30 degrees).

MY problem has been finding a replacment part that makes sense. Looking up with this number here, E3TB-9B256-AA (what the yellow sticker on the part says). I know this is a dealer number, but I can't seem to find a cross reference for it that matches up to other thread's.

Any help is appreciated

1984 F250 4X4 Diesel

 

The number on the part is called an "engineering" number.
The actual part number (and I did cross reference), is E3TZ9189C.
I needed one recently and partsguyed got me one for a reasonable price.
His website is www.partsguyed.com
He's also a member on here, so give him a shout, and see what he can do for you.

 

You can also get these valves from the aftermarket, but they are generic and require a little head scratching to hook them up.

 

Thanks for the prompt reply, his price is definitly cheaper than that the dealer wanted (287.00). Now for the pay check needs to get here.

Again, thanks for taking the time to help me out!

 

I did see the aftermarkets, I don't mind going that route. From what I saw it would also require some soldering and splicing into the old harness to get it to work.

Knowing myself, after dropping the front tank, I will already be at my limits (I just topped off the front tank 4 days before).

IF I went the aftermarket way, any recomendations? My only reference has all kinds of obstructions in the way, so I can't get a great look at the old selector valve for comparison

 

Not only would you have to change the wiring plug, but you would have to change the fittings on the fuel lines. Personally, I would rather not have to go through all those changes, if I didn't have to, so I bought the OEM valve.

 

current one I have is using just standard hose clamps and 3/8" hose? then connecting to the metal fuel lines. aftermarket uses's different? (wondering if the guy I bought it from already modified)

 

Sounds it, I have researched this extensively because currently I am in the same boat with my 86 F250 mine has the 460 gasser though, same valve however. The valve from autozone and oreilly are basically the same, except the one from oreilly you can get in the "kit" and it comes with the wiring harness as well, autozone you have to specifically request it, providing the counter guys know which it is. I have a diagram from one of the guys on here that put on the aftermarket one and he was very thorough on telling which fuel lines go where on the aftermarket valve. However, personally I am going to go ahead and spend the extra $100 and get the one from partsguyed.com because I really dont relish the thought of having to do all that altering, not to mention cutting the factory harness and splicing and soldering all the wires together. On mine there isnt a whole heck of a lot of room to do this repair if you are having do altering as well, this is why I am going back OEM.
I just wanted to lend that much advice since I have done so much research. Like yourself I am sure I am a do it yourselfer, dont want to have to pay a mechanic and I am very mechanically inclined, for something like this though I think its better to go back with the way it came from the factory. Thats my two cents worth. Good luck, if you do go aftermarket please post on here how it went for you, I am going to be repairing mine next month so I have some time yet to learn more.

 

to be honest, after spending some time thinking about this while doing nothing at work. I think I am going back to my original remark, by the time I get done "making" the room to get to the valve, I will be at the threshold of patience and just want it done, now.

I have one last thing to do to verify the hairline crack I think I got, best case scenario its just hose replacments, but who has ever been that lucky? Not me..

Thanks again for all the help and insite. Looking forward to contributing myself instead of just always reading.

 

If you already have a aftermarket valve, it's going to be easiest to stay aftermarket. Of course you won't know really till you pull it down. Looks like you are stuck pulling it down without having the part ready to go back in.

If you really need the truck, you could have something there to plug the lines and just run off one tank till the part comes in if you end up needing a new valve. Even though you plug the lines, you will still need the leave the old valve hanging there plugged in or your fuel sending will not work. This unit electrically switches the fuel gauge from front to rear.

 

well, while still a bit more awake in the mornin (I work Graveyard), I noticed I was actually able to drop the skid plate without dropping the front tank (hooray). This gave me a real good look at the problem, and it looks compounded, bad valve, swollen hose's at the connecter with 26 year dirt/diesel mix all crammed in there.

Thankfully, with the hours I have, I can use the wife's car, which I need to get out of ASAP.

So I am rethinking this aftermarket bit as I gotta tear into the fuel lines anyhow to replace the rubber.

Now for the fun part, which aftermarket valve to go with (hopefully one that comes with a wire diagram that says, Wire A to wire B), if I went that route.

 

There was a thread on one of these boards where a few guys where doing this swap. I copied the conversation from the posts and pasted it into a file on my computer. I will paste it here, but you will have to wade through it and figure out what they are talking about. I will also post a link to the valve, let me know if it doesn't work, since I saved the pdf to my computer also.
Here's the link. http://pollak.thomasnet.com/viewitem...lve?&forward=1


So far, I've gathered the following:

Front tank sending unit: Dark blue-yellow
Rear tank sending unit: Yellow-light blue
Fuel gauge: Yellow-white (or white-yellow)

Switch wires:
outer most (closest to edge of plug): Red
second wire in (next to red): Brown-white

Switch on front tank: Red wire
Switch on rear tank: Brown-white wire (i think)

I'll post an update with the final results as soon as I can.



You can use pollak valve. It's the same as FSV2 you find in autozone. Just different package.

The stock wiring is
1-2-3-4-5-6

(1) is not used

The pollak or FSV2 wiring is
A-B-C-D-E-F

(F) is not used

so when you use the new wiring trail make sure to map as follows:
1->F
2->E (Main Tank)
3->D (Aux Tank)
4->C (aux tank sender)
5->B (fuel gauge)
6->A (main tank sender)

Hope this helps!




http://pollak.thomasnet.com/viewitem...lve?&forward=1


Using the Pollak wiring labels power on E should select the front tank, power on D should select the rear tank.

D and E both supply positive and negative power to the FSV.

So when E is positive, D should be ground.
Flip the switch to the rear tank, D should be positive and E should be ground.

When the valve is changing tanks, the last thing it does is make the fuel gauge connection on the selected tank.

Did the gauges work correctly before you changed the valve?

Position A,B and C are the only connections that have anything to do with the fuel gauge.
Position A and C should be going to the tank senders with B going to the gauge.
Also not sure about how the newer ones are wired, but I have ground wires from the senders that are tied together near the FSV on mine.
Do you have any disconnected grounds?


so.for others,i may as well state everything to help you get it right.
first.this valve uses 6 ports.the engine to valve is obvious.connect the main tank (in my case the front) to the L port of the valve.
connect the R for your aux tank (in my case the rear.)
(i had this right)

pin 1 is NOT used.not by ford nor this valve.
you will see the blank spot in your old harness.
(i had this right)

Yellow/Blue Stripe = A
Yellow/White Stripe = B
Blue/White Stripe = C
Red = D
Black/White Stripe = E
None = F
(i had this wrong.like stated here,worked perfect for my '93)

feels good to know i saved a boat load on a new FSV,and wiring it up is quite easy actually when you pay attention to the old wiring harness.this should help those like me,who just want to match up the colors and keep it simple.


i should also state to help future researchers,a simple tip,despite your colors of wires,
just cut off your stock connector,then look at it.notice the blank spot in the connector(where there is no wire to connect.)
well,right next to this side(the first wire next to it) is your "E".then follow your stock colors on your connector,over.so your next color beside "E" will be your "D" then c,b,a as you go across to the other side.
so when you cut your stock connector off,leave enough tails on your wires to be able to see each color so you can match it up.
this will make sense when your doing it.very simple really this way.

also note,when you try to bolt it back to the frame rail,the spacing is slightly off.you can start each bolt and it will catch and tighten.however,it will kink the top rear fuel lines.
she's stalling out on me when i select the rear tank,and the line pumps clean from the front tank.(that would REALLY suck for you guys who haven't done the electric pump conversion yet.as you would have to crank,and crank to prime the system again!!! so make sure you don't kink off the line.)
so i think i can just use one bolt.i'l use the top bolt in FSV and the bottom bolt hole in the frame.this should hold it plenty and provide more room so the lines don't kink.( but if your worried,and or want to really do it "right",you could drill another hole in the frame down lower,so you have both bolts again.i think the one with rust up and hold forever just fine,the fuel lines hold it all there too,so its not like it could fall off or anything.)

also note,this valve,just uses standard hose connections.not the stock fuel connections.
all you need to do,is cut the end off the ends going into the FSV,and strip back the outer hose.you can now slide your rubber hose right on the stock fuel connector lines going into the tanks!just secure with standard hose clamps.its all low pressure,so no worries.

 

I tried that link myself, and it is dead now. I found the valve, and if you click on this link, look in the upper right corner and click on "download pdf". Save it to your computer like I did, lots of good info.
Light Truck 6-Port Motor Driven Valve on Pollak

 

Franklin, that has all the makins of just being awesome. Here I was debating on how I was going to get this valve and still manage groceries after paying rent. With that info on the wiring diagram, as long as its accurate, lol, sounds pretty simple. Time to get out the ol soldering iron and heat shrink tubing.

Thanks again =-)

 

I hate to beat a dead horse, but, I am not smart enough and need help again.

so I went to work on this thinking I could at least bleed the fuel from the lines and stop my leak on the ground before the complex I live at freak out from dripping diesel on the ground.

MY ISSUE is, the port closest to the frame, after I remove the hose, it just runs and runs and runs with no sign of stopping out of the valve.

Now, when I get the new part, how is one expected to do the swap?

I hate to think that its just going to keep bleeding off the fuel tank (selected or both?) till it runs dry