Engine rebuild
#1
Engine rebuild
Hi.
I am the "lucky" owner of a 04 F-150 with a 5.4 in it.
Last February it started to misfire and acting strange.
Having no time to investigate due to much work, i left it with a workshop.
They have done a lot to it, changing plugs, coils, a fuel pump module without any of this was helping. Next they changed all valvetrain components, chains, tentioners, solenoids and phasers. Now it throws the P0345 and P0022 codes.
The motor idles bad, and has no performance. Oil is 5w20 with a delco filter.
I have now the truck in my garage and this weekend i tested the oil pressure.
A sad story. Hot when idling it read 12-15 psi and at 2000 rpm it was 50 psi.
I guess i will have to rebuild it with new bearings and oil pump?
Any ideas what pump to use, Melling M340 or M360?
Or any thoughts on the matter at all?
Dag A
I am the "lucky" owner of a 04 F-150 with a 5.4 in it.
Last February it started to misfire and acting strange.
Having no time to investigate due to much work, i left it with a workshop.
They have done a lot to it, changing plugs, coils, a fuel pump module without any of this was helping. Next they changed all valvetrain components, chains, tentioners, solenoids and phasers. Now it throws the P0345 and P0022 codes.
The motor idles bad, and has no performance. Oil is 5w20 with a delco filter.
I have now the truck in my garage and this weekend i tested the oil pressure.
A sad story. Hot when idling it read 12-15 psi and at 2000 rpm it was 50 psi.
I guess i will have to rebuild it with new bearings and oil pump?
Any ideas what pump to use, Melling M340 or M360?
Or any thoughts on the matter at all?
Dag A
#2
Hi.
I am the "lucky" owner of a 04 F-150 with a 5.4 in it.
Last February it started to misfire and acting strange.
Having no time to investigate due to much work, i left it with a workshop.
They have done a lot to it, changing plugs, coils, a fuel pump module without any of this was helping. Next they changed all valvetrain components, chains, tentioners, solenoids and phasers. Now it throws the P0345 and P0022 codes.
The motor idles bad, and has no performance. Oil is 5w20 with a delco filter.
I have now the truck in my garage and this weekend i tested the oil pressure.
A sad story. Hot when idling it read 12-15 psi and at 2000 rpm it was 50 psi.
I guess i will have to rebuild it with new bearings and oil pump?
Any ideas what pump to use, Melling M340 or M360?
Or any thoughts on the matter at all?
Dag A
I am the "lucky" owner of a 04 F-150 with a 5.4 in it.
Last February it started to misfire and acting strange.
Having no time to investigate due to much work, i left it with a workshop.
They have done a lot to it, changing plugs, coils, a fuel pump module without any of this was helping. Next they changed all valvetrain components, chains, tentioners, solenoids and phasers. Now it throws the P0345 and P0022 codes.
The motor idles bad, and has no performance. Oil is 5w20 with a delco filter.
I have now the truck in my garage and this weekend i tested the oil pressure.
A sad story. Hot when idling it read 12-15 psi and at 2000 rpm it was 50 psi.
I guess i will have to rebuild it with new bearings and oil pump?
Any ideas what pump to use, Melling M340 or M360?
Or any thoughts on the matter at all?
Dag A
The oil pressure is not good but it's not bad either. The misfire could be several things. First check all of the engine grounds. Then all of the electrical connections for the coils and the injectors at the injectors and coils. If you find nothing loose at the coils and injectors I suggest disconnecting each coil in sequence to locate the cylinder where the problem is. There will be a difference in the way it runs or it may stall, if it stalls you have found a cylinder that is working. If there is no change you have found a dead cylinder. Write down what you find at each cylinder, do not trust to memory. If that dosen't help repeat the procedure with the injectors. The goal is to find the offending cylinders. Another potential problem could be the crankshaft position sensor. This sensor is under the a/c compressor on the side of the timing cover, quite close to the front of the engine.
It sounds as if the shop just threw parts at the truck in the hope of something fixing it. Please itemize the parts that you were charged for and also you should look at everything that they say they replaced to verify that it was done. This might help in eliminating some areas that could cause the problem(s) you are describing.
#3
Welcome to FTE. You should have started here last Feb.
The oil pressure is not good but it's not bad either. The misfire could be several things. First check all of the engine grounds. Then all of the electrical connections for the coils and the injectors at the injectors and coils. If you find nothing loose at the coils and injectors I suggest disconnecting each coil in sequence to locate the cylinder where the problem is. There will be a difference in the way it runs or it may stall, if it stalls you have found a cylinder that is working. If there is no change you have found a dead cylinder. Write down what you find at each cylinder, do not trust to memory. If that dosen't help repeat the procedure with the injectors. The goal is to find the offending cylinders. Another potential problem could be the crankshaft position sensor. This sensor is under the a/c compressor on the side of the timing cover, quite close to the front of the engine.
It sounds as if the shop just threw parts at the truck in the hope of something fixing it. Please itemize the parts that you were charged for and also you should look at everything that they say they replaced to verify that it was done. This might help in eliminating some areas that could cause the problem(s) you are describing.
The oil pressure is not good but it's not bad either. The misfire could be several things. First check all of the engine grounds. Then all of the electrical connections for the coils and the injectors at the injectors and coils. If you find nothing loose at the coils and injectors I suggest disconnecting each coil in sequence to locate the cylinder where the problem is. There will be a difference in the way it runs or it may stall, if it stalls you have found a cylinder that is working. If there is no change you have found a dead cylinder. Write down what you find at each cylinder, do not trust to memory. If that dosen't help repeat the procedure with the injectors. The goal is to find the offending cylinders. Another potential problem could be the crankshaft position sensor. This sensor is under the a/c compressor on the side of the timing cover, quite close to the front of the engine.
It sounds as if the shop just threw parts at the truck in the hope of something fixing it. Please itemize the parts that you were charged for and also you should look at everything that they say they replaced to verify that it was done. This might help in eliminating some areas that could cause the problem(s) you are describing.
I should have been more specific in my last post.
A year before all this started, a vacuum line under the intake popped off, causing nothing but bad idle. At that time. It returned lean bank 1 code, P0171. I drove for a couple of months before i found out what it was. I believe this caused the converters to melt down. The exhaust where all clogged up. So the truck started to run bad, and all the misfire codes came up. This last February.
All the coils have been changed, so i don't think the problem is there.
Injectors have been tested, nothing there.
Every single wire has been tested for connectivity. I know the mechanic who has worked on the truck, and he is very skilled.
There was a faulty temp sensor, located under the intake on the left side, bank 1. Has been changed. Also the fuel pump driver module has been changed, it was corroded, and full of water. This only helped to a point.
So all the valve train components were changed, chains, tensioner, tensioner guides, cam phaser, vct solenoids. This helped a bit more, and the truck runs better. But on idle the bank 2 phaser rattles a lot. If i rise the rpm to appx 1200 it get silent and idles better than ever. When driving there is no problems when running light, but very poor performance. When i connected the oil pressure gauge, i also checked the crank end play, and there where more than i liked. Did not have a dial gauge at that moment, but got one now.
I will pull the valve covers and check the cam bearings, also measure the end play before i pull the engine, but i think it needs to be done. Just the P0345 and P0022 codes are thrown.
Sorry for the loooong post, but no other way to describe all that's been done, and of course the language. Please bare with me!!
#4
Sounds like they are throwing parts at it without having a clue what the problem is.
I'd use the Motorcraft spec oil filter also, I doubt the AC Delco filter has the silicone anti drainback valve. Not saying the oil filter is your problem just saying.
If you think the converters were damaged did you replace them or inspect them? Were the COP boots changed?
I'd use the Motorcraft spec oil filter also, I doubt the AC Delco filter has the silicone anti drainback valve. Not saying the oil filter is your problem just saying.
If you think the converters were damaged did you replace them or inspect them? Were the COP boots changed?
#5
Sounds like they are throwing parts at it without having a clue what the problem is.
I'd use the Motorcraft spec oil filter also, I doubt the AC Delco filter has the silicone anti drainback valve. Not saying the oil filter is your problem just saying.
If you think the converters were damaged did you replace them or inspect them? Were the COP boots changed?
I'd use the Motorcraft spec oil filter also, I doubt the AC Delco filter has the silicone anti drainback valve. Not saying the oil filter is your problem just saying.
If you think the converters were damaged did you replace them or inspect them? Were the COP boots changed?
Delco makes great filters. And the majority of Oil filters have ADB valves...even Supertech ones do.
#6
Whoever did the valvetrain work, get them to fix their shoddy work. Those codes are related to cam timing, it could be something simple like a solenoid or phaser is stuck.
And TBFGhost, dkf was talking about "silicone" ADBV's... the modulars are spec'd with the FL-820S - the S is the silicone ADBV.
And TBFGhost, dkf was talking about "silicone" ADBV's... the modulars are spec'd with the FL-820S - the S is the silicone ADBV.
#7
Trending Topics
#9
JL
#10
The OP has a problem with his cam timing.
Jumping the gun and rebuilding the engine is not the right way to go.
Going back to the shop that did the valvetrain work and making them fix it, is.
Or finding another shop and getting it done RIGHT this time
#12
I have tried to change the cam sensors to the opposite side, but the code stays at the same side as before, bank 2.
Is there any way to test the vct solenoid and the cam phaser?
I could try to change side of the vct solenoids to see what happens maybe?
I also believe that you can ground the solenoids in order to put it in open condition. True?
I have read several places that the oil pressure should be 25 psi @ idle and 60 psi @ 2000 rpm in order to make tha phasers work.
Is there any way to test the vct solenoid and the cam phaser?
I could try to change side of the vct solenoids to see what happens maybe?
I also believe that you can ground the solenoids in order to put it in open condition. True?
I have read several places that the oil pressure should be 25 psi @ idle and 60 psi @ 2000 rpm in order to make tha phasers work.
#13
#14
Man, if you figure out what's throwing a bank 2 P0345 Cam position sensor, post it up, because mine runs rough with no power and rarely even idles on its own and will not turn RPMs past 3000 full throttle. Changed the cam position sensor, phaser, and swapped VCTs, still bank 2 P0345. Cam position sensor wires are good up to the PCM plug. I'm stuck. There is a ground cable that I forgot where it went. I had it grounded to the engine at the alternator mounts. I think that it goes somewhere else, but can ground location affect the PCM? Then, the alternator is supplying 14 volts checked at the battery posts. Is that good? Cause a parts store tested the alternator uninstalled and said is was overvolting, but my reference said that it was normal checked installed (at some lead) to be up to 15.5 volts.