Beware, long story alert.

What led up to decision to change plugs:

• I was getting consistent codes
  • 0300 (random misfire) and sometimes 0301 (cyl 1 misfire)
• 135,000 miles
  • I cannot confirm that they were ever changed
• Normal maintenance, right?
  • How bad could it be?
    • Hmmm.

In being a good guy to my F-250 engine, I treated it to an oil change 1,000 miles ago. I put Mobile-1 full synthetic and MotorCraft filter. No prob. I intend to follow Ford's maintenance recommendations very closely, and I'll perform most work myself.

Plug Change:

• Ordered orginal equ. M/C plugs
  • Auto Zone 20% off with free next day shipping. Not bad.
  • Have these been improved to remove breaking issue?
• Day 1
  • From web research I blew out holes, backed out plugs 1/4 turn, and flooded holes with PB Blaster.
    • Let sit overnight
• Next morning (played hooky from work)
  • 6:45 a.m. I set up to remove plugs.
    • I noticed oil on cyl-1 coil boot.
      • Likely cause of misfire. Could new oil full synthetic have caused this?
  • I slowly worked plug back and forth to work it out hole.
    • 1st plug cracked (#%%$&$)
  • Back and forth on 2nd.
    • Came out whole
    • OK, maybe I bummed it on first hole
  • Nope, 3rd cracked.
  • It went on this way, saving 4 cracking 4. Now what? (*%$*&^^&&^$)
    • 8:00 am Internet shows Matco kit to pull remaining parts out.
      • It looked good promise
    • I can't locate a Matco dealer online or phone-wired, you'd think they'd be looking for business, its like a secret society to get a hold of them.
    • I drove for 2 1/2 hours everywhere looking for Matco or Snap-On truck.
      • Nothing
      • I resorted to crappy tool that Napa sells for plug removal
        • Yup, crappy. It wont do the job.
      • 1:00 I tracked down a Matco guy who didn't have tool, but he gave me name of guy 2 districts away who had it.
        • More driving. (My other car is Honda Element-awesome vehicle)
    • 2:30 I have Matco kit and it works. Wow! I'm happy again. (It was a good thing I was home alone for this. I did not need witnesses of my behavior)
  • 4:00 all hole blown out with air nozzle that I rigged with 12 inch long 1/4 steel hydraulic tubing.
    • Plugs in, dielectric grease on all boots and their e-connections, coils in, airbox in, coolant tank back in place.
  • Turn key. (suspense)
    • It starts and sounds good. Some smoke from PB Blaster. Gone on 3 minutes.
    • Holy cow I did! I survived!
  • I gave her a good hard drive'n, no codes. Sounds and runs beautifully.
    • I love my truck

,Noel

 

I hope you anti-seized those plugs.

 

Yup. Copper based high temp. I was surprised that plugs that came out did not have anti-seize. This tells me that they were likely original. Torque to get plugs out was really high too, excessive.

 

Did you use the actual Motorcraft branded spark plugs? In your post it says "Ordered orginal equ. M/C plugs", which to me reads as: I bought Motorcraft equivalent spark plugs that according to Autozone perform and will be the same, just a different brand.

The other way I read it was that you ordered Original Equipment Motorcraft Plugs.

Sorry, Just wanted to be clear

 

Good job on the story. Glad it all worded out! Do you believe some carburetor cleaner, in addition to the PB Blaster, would have helped?

 

I'm digging in memory here, but isn't the #1 hole not far from the oil fill on a 5.4? More likely someone dumped a fluid onto engine at some point and it got onto the COP than an oil changed suddenly caused a problem in 1000 miles.

I've changed engines to synthetics/ specifically Mobil 1 at higher miles with no leak issues (it actually sealed up a couple since it's a better additive package).

 

Tofan, Yup, MotorCraft plugs. I got lazy typing. To save 10 cents on non-stock parts doesn't make sense to me, but deal online at Auto Zone with next day shipping was sweet. Plus my research shows that aftermarket plugs are inferior.

Texatech, Hmmm, that's interesting. I used a funnel, but I could have fat fingered the fill.

Jetty, Time did not allow, but next w/e I hope to clean throttle body. It doesn't look bad, but i wont hurt.

I just picked up a metal lathe for my garage though. That may occupy my time.

Since this rig is new to me, I'm looking for all its idiosyncrasies. LOL, since plug change I've driving with OBDII plugged in, like a nervous mother.

 

Hi Noel I was looking at the Matco kits and there is a BPR65 and a BPR4 (?)
i was just wondering which one you had because we have a 5.4 that just rolled over 100k miles

 

82_F100_300Six,

The kit that I used is the BPR65. It cost about $125. I suggest having it on hand before you start job, or maybe at least contact a Matco tool dealer to have on truck. Feel free to drop a line if you want my take on successfully getting those broken bits out. There's a good video online too. I'll try to track it down.

What is that fish, a cod? Are you in New England?

Good luck. ,Noel.

 

Thanks Noel it's an albino catfish that was released in Texas.

I got a little confused by the different kits....is the Matco just a licensed Lisle kit or is something superior or different? (Not that it matters)

Then maybe it was an OTC video possibly that confused me it seems like they just start out by breaking the porcelain on purpose as part of the procedure.
(I need to watch some more videos)

We bought the truck used so we don't know if it has the original plugs or not. And I agree I won't try it without the kit ready.

 

I bought my truck used too. Need to start from scratch with it. I think Lisle is actual manufacture of kit. Local parts stores can get it. I did not have time to wait. Here it is, same exact thing, except for molded box.>>
Have a magnet on a stick or cable or something to fish plug out holes too.

 

Thanks I think I'm gonna roll the dice and use an impact from the get go.

Maybe I'll break eight of eight at least I'll have a perfect score

 

Be sure to post up a damage report Good look.