Glad its fixed. I would call Ford and complain this is b.s. The Dealer should have done something more to help you out.A few years back I talked to a person at Ford and if they get 3 complants they will investagate the issue.I complained about treatment at the dealership being crap I don't know if it helped but I tried to make a differents.

 

yeah, I've complained twice already, maybe I'll make it official

 

I'm having the same symptoms with the abs light on, e brake light on, 4wd flashing, but my speedometer and odometer is not working. Does anyone know if this means the ring is cracked or is it a sensor causing this? I had autozone run a scan and it said abs was not responding but it didn't give any codes and local dealership wants $100 just to run a scan...

 

Most likely the ABS ring is the issue. The scanner won't even pick up that cracked ring... Make sure you have a mechanic you trust check out that abs ring.

 

Ok so I jacked up the suv and rotated all the tires to check the rings and they looked fine visually, interestingly it looks like the previous owner did have to replace the drives rear tone ring as it looked new. I also disconnected the battery for 15 min to see if that would clear the lights and make the speedo/odo work and it did not work which makes me think maybe its a sensor that is not responding?

 

I just finished this same job last night, and the procedure above was much easier than the Haynes manual version involving popping the lower ball joint.

Thank you!

I went with a new NAPA half-shaft, $81 with lifetime replacement. I also installed new Moog swaybar end links while I had it on the jackstands, completely killed the low-speed rattle/clunk we've had for years.

Great information on this forum and I appreciate it.

 

Following up on my previous post, I replaced the passenger side CV shaft last weekend as preventative maintenance. Some additional information that may help anybody taking on this job:

1.) NAPA "Max Drive" CV shafts are visibly nicer than factory or AutoZone Duralast Gold shafts in several aspects. Bigger diameter center shaft, wider ABS toner ring, thicker/heavier boot material. Lifetime replacement warranty.

2.) For the passenger side, I found it easier just to unbolt the intermediate shaft bearing (2 nuts), remove the plastic alternator cover, and slide the entire intermediate and CV shafts out as an assembly. No room to get tools in there to split them on the car, exhaust pipe is in the way. Once on the workbench it was a piece of cake.

2a.) Unbolt the ABS sensor and wiggle it out of the spindle hole, the wiring harness isn't long enough for the spindle maneuvering needed to clear the CV shaft.

2b.) the plastic push-rivet that holds the alternator cover in place broke during removal, so have a replacement ready...AutoZone sells 3-packs of 1/4" push-rivets that are similar design but not identical to the factory one, worked fine for me.

3.) While the intermediate shaft is out, inspect the rubber isolator on its bearing. Mine was dry-cracked and brittle. New shaft assembly was $126 at the dealer and included a new lock ring. (this cost me 1 day of down-time as the part had to be ordered, the shaft isn't carried by any of the parts chain stores I checked)

4.) I installed the new CV and intermediate shafts together on the workbench, clicked together smoothly, and then installed the whole assembly on the vehicle. Again, more room to work and able to see the splines to ensure alignment.

5.) While I was in there, a new serpentine belt went on. 88K miles from the factory belt was plenty. (in retrospect, it wasn't necessary to remove the inner fender splash shield anyway)

6.) I also replaced both swaybar end links w/ Moog pieces, much more durable construction and include zerk fittings to grease the upper & lower joints. $38 each. Leaving these off for removal and installation of the CV joints provided extra room for maneuvering which was nice.

7.) Both tie-rod rubber boots are shot and need replacement. I was unable to find boots, so I greased the inner assembly and used RTV as a temporary repair on the cracks until I find a source for them.

8.) Special tools needed: 1/2" drive torque wrench, impact gun to remove the axle nut, 45deg pry bar, 13mm wobble-joint socket for the intermed shaft bearing nuts, 32mm impact socket for axle nut.

9.) Replacement parts needed: 1/4" plastic push-rivet for the alternator cover, 1/8" cotter pin for tie rod nut, Ford retainer clip for CV shaft (if not replacing the intermed shaft).

Hope this helps a bit.

 

Need to know wht is up wth my 4x4 lights flashing five times then quiting for a few then it repeats.have noticed a brake prob no light though.also just had tranny rebuilt

 

Lift the front wheels, remove, and inspect the ABS toner ring. If it is loose on the hub, you have the problem described in this thread.

 

I called my local ford dealer and he told me 19.00 I said that cant be right I am looking at a ford forum right now and they are saying they are buying these for 8.19 dam if he didnt drop and match it now I have to figure out witch one it is is this a front only issue or can it be a back problem also

mine will work most to the time but if i stomp it (drive it like my wife does) then the light will come on so I must have a bad ring

 

i found this out there

Escape 2000 to 2008 ABS Tone Ring Failure - The Ranger Station Forums