Josh, I didn't describe how I used the porkchop, but fwiw it didn't seem to want to fit in the "hand-hold" holes, iirc the nub went into the center hub hole. My tires were lying flat on the ground as I had 2 or 3 like your's where the bud came off instead of the nut. This may all be pointless as the wheels I was taking off were 17" wm's.

I can't imagine using the porkchop on a tire still mounted on the truck......

Of course this was all before I had the 20" rims powder-coated so I wasn't worried about a few scars. And after watching how they mounted the tires with sledges and pry bars I quit worrying about a few scars on a work truck. They still look great.

Havi, I think I'm in the process of gathering the ingredients of a kit one piece at a time. The pieces are a lot more expensive than a pickup requires.

 

Seems like you are trying to remove the rear wheels? And you cant remove the outer nuts? Because the inner (square nut) is loose. I fail to
understand why you just dont cut the nut off instead of wasting all that
energy. Not being a wise guy, but it sounds like working in the 1920s.
My father was a liquid wrench= waste of time, me I just cut them off.
Nothing rare about these inner and outer nuts cheap at Napa. And if
read one of my old posts about these things> do not fiddle with these
things without taking the air out of the tires.

 

big job, are you saying that you can get those cones and nuts at napa??? the one by me said not available. any chance you have part #'s?

 

I'll ditto Big Job's comment. Buy new. As for where to buy, if Napa doesn't have them check around. They are the same for all trucks and trailers. I've bought them locally at the IHC dealer, and at the Arrow Trailer dealer. Just make sure you buy left and right hand threads. Stu

 

Just be careful if you use heat. I had multiple cones / nuts stuck on an outer dual off a donor truck. They were too tight to the rim to get at them with a cut-off wheel without damaging the wheel face. After trying Blaster, breaker bars and a Ken-tool pork chop went the heat route - warped the wheel. Found out after strip, powdercoat and new tire was mounted. They threw it on the balancer and wow. 5-lug lock ring rims are hard to come by, just be careful with the heat.

And it's worth repeating Sam's point a few posts up - deflate the tires when working on these. And when airing up, not all at once. Use a lock-on chuck and fill in 5 or 10# increments and let them set. And if you are not using a tire cage, chain the wheel pieces together with heavy chain.

 

exellent piece of advise!!

 

Josh, did you use this tool yet? Was it good enough over the more traditional looking porkchop?

 

Hi Scott,

I did use it to finish removing the wheels on the F6 and seemed to work ok.
however I don't recall the other end of the wrench actually fitting into the handholds of the wheel like they say in the parts advertisement description?
the other end of the wrench would either wedge up against the axle hub and or the concave side of the wheel while using the breaker bar and square socket to remove.
Like Tim mentions above that could scratch your wheels a little if nicely painted, but you could probably wrap a wrag around the end of the wrench to eliminate most of those concerns.


on a side note of other tools that would be very helpful, Here is one I want to either get or make
Ken-Tool 32610 Wrench Support Stand

whether using a 4 way or big braker bar with 6' pipe this would be very handy for breaking the lugs loose.

now that I think about it maybe just a small car adjustable jack stand would make due for occaisional use.
Redirect Notice

 

I like that support stand idea - easy enuf to make with scrap pipe in the shop!

 

Im going to be swapping tires on the 53 C600 here soon and haven't decided if I'll remove the wheels myself or drive it in and have the shop pull them, swap tires and remount on the truck.. ?

Guess it will largely depend on what they want to charge me?? it might just be worth it for me to have them do it??


Tim, what would you use or how would you make the pipe stand adjustable?
I guess having the upper pipe smaller dia and fitting inside the outer pipe you could just drill holes through them at 1/2" increments and use a pin??

 

Thats how I see it working. Since it's just a prop to hold the wrench steady and wouldn't have to support a lot of pressure, it wouldn't have to be super heavy duty

 

just a follow up--- i did get all cones and nuts new at napa.