The tappet goes into the bottom of the fuel pump and drives the pump off of a cam lobe. If you do not remove "LIFT" the pump "STRAIGHT UP" you can hit the tappet on the side of the opening as you pull the pump out and knock it out of the pump and into the engine. To help solve this problem, once the fuel filter housing is removed, the banjo bolt removed, all fuel lines removed and the fuel pump bolts removed, use a socket and pull handle on the front crank nut to turn the crank, "DO NOT USE THE STARTER". (This work best with two people but can be done by yourself). Watch the fuel pump and stop the engine when the pump has lifted off of the base. This has the cam lobe at the top, making pump removal easier by shorting the distance the pump tappet is inside the engine. Before installing the new pump rotate the engine to lower the cam lobe so you do not have to put as much down pressure on the pump body.

 

Nice post Jose! Somebody rep this man!

 

Thank you buddy, its not necessary. And its not mine, my friend Plowhand wrote it and I saved it.

 

Does the banjo bolt on the back of the fuel pump have an 1-1/4 head. I was thinking about tourching a wrench into an offset style to help with the minimal clearance. I am using all of the fuel leak posts to conquer all my dripping issues.

 

Yep. Its 1 1/4. Saw a post somewhere. Somebody did the same thing. Good idea!

 

Thanks! Just working up the courage to rebuild my fuel bowl and to replace the fuel hose gasket things. I have a serious leak at the fuel line at the back of the pump. I also have a very weird problem. I cleaned the top of the pump real well. The pump looks like it is made in 2 pieces. There is a parting line around the circle part on the top. With the truck running I can see very very small fuel bubbles coming out of it. Very odd to me. Sorry for the hijack. I digress. Back to listening and not talking.

EC.

 

I forgot I pulled the fuel canister off first.I'm such a lame brain! Thanks again.

 

Hard to believe these pumps can leak so much and still work.

 

No-big-deal Iallwork I`m still driving every day and ignoring the leak, just pee`s me off..

 

I hate leaks. Can't drive into certain peoples driveways or I leave a huge stain on there concrete. Finally got all of my leaks fixed this summer. That was some work and several dollars. But at least the stealership didn't get any labor out of it thanks to FTE.

 

Glad I found this post... I'm currently dealing with this problem.

A bit nervous to do this, is there a good write up or some pictures to check out?

 

Here's one link to the 'famous' Sam Miller writeup on changing the fuel pump:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7450178

(If necessary, just copy it into the brower's address bar.)

I went thru this several months ago (both the fuel bowl and then the pump). On my non-cali '96, you can get the banjo bolt free with just a regular craftsman 1 1/4" combo wrench. Takes a little while, just keep at it. The box end will break it free and tighten it. And you can leave the turbo alone.

My hands are 'small' so it wasn't too bad taking the bolt out the last couple threads by hand. I'd suggest a rag under the bolt before you pull it to catch the inside sealing washer, in case it falls free.

As far as the tappet in the pump goes, mine stayed in just fine. The key is to lift the pump straight up. The 'trouble spot' is that last 1/8" or so when you can tilt the pump. If that happens, the tappet can drag on the side of the bore and get pulled out of the pump as you lift it. I found you can keep the pump 'staight up' by twisting it slightly. If it gets 'tilted', it won't twist and you need to get it squared up before continuing.

Last item - I had a bunch of "wet dirt" under the pump. The lifter bore doesn't have any boss around it. Whe you go to clean it, the dirt can easily get pushed into the bore. I made a plug with a foot long dowel, wrapped with electric tape to fit snuggly in the hole. with 20/20 hindsight, I'd measure the new pump's tappet boss and make up a 'plug' so when the old pump comes off, the plug can go right in without having to 'adjust it' to get it to 'fit'.

 

What year vehicle do you have? Is it a "Cali" model?

 

Nobody will probably recommend this, but I put on a face sheild and stuck my pressure washer down I in the valley and blasted most of the crap out of there. I didn't get carried away though because I didn't want to hit any electrical stuff. Just the valley and not when the motor is hot. I took a chance and didn't destroy anything. It also helped me find my leak because the I could dry it off really well. There was still a small amount of crud around the bore, much easier to clean up though and less chance of getting crud in the motor. Good luck!

 

Built your own wrench ( from Excavator wrench member of another forum). I made one and worked nice.