diesel fuel leak
#1
diesel fuel leak
My 2000 7.3 excusion has a diesel fuel leak. I don't now where to start looking to fix this. I hope it's not a hard line. I don't even see the leak and I don't know where to look a shop doing a saftey inspection said I had a diesel fuel leak and fuel was collecting in the valley.
Anyone have a clue on where I should start looking. Is this a expensive fix? Is common place to check that is easy to repair?
I average 16.5 miles per gallon. My fuel economy dropped about 1 1/2 years ago after my CPS was replaced due to recall. My truck is a 2000 4x4 limited.
Thanks,
Anyone have a clue on where I should start looking. Is this a expensive fix? Is common place to check that is easy to repair?
I average 16.5 miles per gallon. My fuel economy dropped about 1 1/2 years ago after my CPS was replaced due to recall. My truck is a 2000 4x4 limited.
Thanks,
#2
#3
#5
It sounds like the fuel is collecting in the valley and draining down via the drain hole in the rear of the valley.
Clean your valley really well with brake cleaner and stuff some rags around the fuel bowl and go for a drive. Check the rags afterward for fresh diesel.
Stewart
#6
Thanks for everyone help.
I hate when people fix a problem but they don't post the results.
The problem was the fuel/water drain valve. I bought the part at Napa for $32 after the military discount.
I could not find the o rings over the weekend for a fair price and ford wanted $45 for the o ring kit. I saw them oline for $6.00 but I would have lost the difference in fuel if I waited on shipping. Thanks for the help. Changing the valve was a pain but it was not hard at all.
I hate when people fix a problem but they don't post the results.
The problem was the fuel/water drain valve. I bought the part at Napa for $32 after the military discount.
I could not find the o rings over the weekend for a fair price and ford wanted $45 for the o ring kit. I saw them oline for $6.00 but I would have lost the difference in fuel if I waited on shipping. Thanks for the help. Changing the valve was a pain but it was not hard at all.
#7
theres a hard line that goes under the turbo to the passanger rear head that a clamp rubbs thru over time also, u might check that or put a rubber spacer between it and the clamp (i used vaccuum hose)
heres a picture of the area
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heres a picture of the area
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#8
Drain Valve O-Ring kit: Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
Replacement Drain Valve Assembly: Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
The difference is the O-rings Guzzle uses.
Stewart
#9
My excursion experience the same problem just the other week when I drove up to mammoth mountain for a few days. It looked like a rear main seal leak coming off the transmission dust cover.
The colder it is out the worst the problem usally gets.
The old o-rings where pancakes! Bought the doorman drain valve from rockauto.com for 22.79 when i got back home and no more leak.
If you had ford work on your truck because of this issue, they would want to replace the whole fuel bowl for muchooo $$$$ ?!
The colder it is out the worst the problem usally gets.
The old o-rings where pancakes! Bought the doorman drain valve from rockauto.com for 22.79 when i got back home and no more leak.
If you had ford work on your truck because of this issue, they would want to replace the whole fuel bowl for muchooo $$$$ ?!
#10
#11
Guys be very careful when you are removing and re-installing the drain valve. If you get one of the screws over tightened or cross threaded, you 'll end up having to take the bowl assembly off and re-tapping or in my case having to buy a new bowl. My original valve lasted over 100k, the 3 valves I've had since then have only lasted about 20k each. When I screwed it up it was cold a drizzly while changing it outside at work, guess I got in a hurry and messed it up. I still carry a spare valve in my truck due to them going bad so easily lately.
#12
Guys be very careful when you are removing and re-installing the drain valve. If you get one of the screws over tightened or cross threaded, you 'll end up having to take the bowl assembly off and re-tapping or in my case having to buy a new bowl. My original valve lasted over 100k, the 3 valves I've had since then have only lasted about 20k each. When I screwed it up it was cold a drizzly while changing it outside at work, guess I got in a hurry and messed it up. I still carry a spare valve in my truck due to them going bad so easily lately.
isnt there a way one could plug the bowl where the drain valve is to eliminate it totally?
#13
Guys be very careful when you are removing and re-installing the drain valve. If you get one of the screws over tightened or cross threaded, you 'll end up having to take the bowl assembly off and re-tapping or in my case having to buy a new bowl. My original valve lasted over 100k, the 3 valves I've had since then have only lasted about 20k each. When I screwed it up it was cold a drizzly while changing it outside at work, guess I got in a hurry and messed it up. I still carry a spare valve in my truck due to them going bad so easily lately.
a piece of all-thread JB welded in place on the bowl and a new nut works well, I wasn't going to buy a new bowl and it's held up for 60K so far.
#14
If you get a tank of contaminated fuel (happens more frequently than you might imagine) you'd be stopping quite a bit to empty the bowl until you could get home and have the tank drained. If you're on a trip or vacation, it'd be even a bigger pain.
Stewart