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  #1  
Old 11-19-2010, 03:19 PM
deshet1980 deshet1980 is offline
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diesel fuel leak

My 2000 7.3 excusion has a diesel fuel leak. I don't now where to start looking to fix this. I hope it's not a hard line. I don't even see the leak and I don't know where to look a shop doing a saftey inspection said I had a diesel fuel leak and fuel was collecting in the valley.

Anyone have a clue on where I should start looking. Is this a expensive fix? Is common place to check that is easy to repair?

I average 16.5 miles per gallon. My fuel economy dropped about 1 1/2 years ago after my CPS was replaced due to recall. My truck is a 2000 4x4 limited.

Thanks,
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Old 11-19-2010, 03:25 PM
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A common location for diesel to leak from is the drain valve on the fuel bowl.

Since the Excursion forum covers all things Ex related, you should go to the 7.3L forum and do a quick search.

I'd bet your fuel bowl is where the leak is coming from though.

Stewart
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Old 11-20-2010, 06:40 AM
deshet1980 deshet1980 is offline
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Thanks for the information. I looked at the fuel leak yesterday and it is towards the back of the engine, it looks like its behind the turbo. I can see fuel building up at the transmission inspection plate.

Thanks
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  #4  
Old 11-20-2010, 07:46 AM
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sounds like the fuel bowl 0-rings, under $10 and you're back on your way..I had the same issue last winter in my '02
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Old 11-20-2010, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by deshet1980 View Post
Thanks for the information. I looked at the fuel leak yesterday and it is towards the back of the engine, it looks like its behind the turbo. I can see fuel building up at the transmission inspection plate.

Thanks
It could be from the fuel line but check your fuel bowl to eliminate that source first.

It sounds like the fuel is collecting in the valley and draining down via the drain hole in the rear of the valley.

Clean your valley really well with brake cleaner and stuff some rags around the fuel bowl and go for a drive. Check the rags afterward for fresh diesel.

Stewart
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Old 11-23-2010, 01:48 PM
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Thanks for everyone help.
I hate when people fix a problem but they don't post the results.
The problem was the fuel/water drain valve. I bought the part at Napa for $32 after the military discount.

I could not find the o rings over the weekend for a fair price and ford wanted $45 for the o ring kit. I saw them oline for $6.00 but I would have lost the difference in fuel if I waited on shipping. Thanks for the help. Changing the valve was a pain but it was not hard at all.
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Old 11-23-2010, 02:37 PM
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greythorn3
theres a hard line that goes under the turbo to the passanger rear head that a clamp rubbs thru over time also, u might check that or put a rubber spacer between it and the clamp (i used vaccuum hose)

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  #8  
Old 11-23-2010, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deshet1980 View Post
I could not find the o rings over the weekend for a fair price and ford wanted $45 for the o ring kit.
Sorry. When I posted that your problem was probably the drain valve, I should have also posted the link to Guzzles Diesel O-Ring website for you.

Drain Valve O-Ring kit: Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines

Replacement Drain Valve Assembly: Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines

The difference is the O-rings Guzzle uses.

Stewart
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Old 01-02-2011, 11:24 PM
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My excursion experience the same problem just the other week when I drove up to mammoth mountain for a few days. It looked like a rear main seal leak coming off the transmission dust cover.

The colder it is out the worst the problem usally gets.

The old o-rings where pancakes! Bought the doorman drain valve from rockauto.com for 22.79 when i got back home and no more leak.

If you had ford work on your truck because of this issue, they would want to replace the whole fuel bowl for muchooo $$$$ ?!
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  #10  
Old 03-07-2011, 10:00 PM
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Looks like I have this issue now.

Thanks for the info guys.

If it's the o rings how much can I drive it before a shut down.

My front axle is wet to the right of Differential. Can't see any major leaks just damp axle.
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Old 03-08-2011, 04:15 AM
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Guys be very careful when you are removing and re-installing the drain valve. If you get one of the screws over tightened or cross threaded, you 'll end up having to take the bowl assembly off and re-tapping or in my case having to buy a new bowl. My original valve lasted over 100k, the 3 valves I've had since then have only lasted about 20k each. When I screwed it up it was cold a drizzly while changing it outside at work, guess I got in a hurry and messed it up. I still carry a spare valve in my truck due to them going bad so easily lately.
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Old 03-08-2011, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golfmedik View Post
Guys be very careful when you are removing and re-installing the drain valve. If you get one of the screws over tightened or cross threaded, you 'll end up having to take the bowl assembly off and re-tapping or in my case having to buy a new bowl. My original valve lasted over 100k, the 3 valves I've had since then have only lasted about 20k each. When I screwed it up it was cold a drizzly while changing it outside at work, guess I got in a hurry and messed it up. I still carry a spare valve in my truck due to them going bad so easily lately.

isnt there a way one could plug the bowl where the drain valve is to eliminate it totally?
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Old 03-08-2011, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golfmedik View Post
Guys be very careful when you are removing and re-installing the drain valve. If you get one of the screws over tightened or cross threaded, you 'll end up having to take the bowl assembly off and re-tapping or in my case having to buy a new bowl. My original valve lasted over 100k, the 3 valves I've had since then have only lasted about 20k each. When I screwed it up it was cold a drizzly while changing it outside at work, guess I got in a hurry and messed it up. I still carry a spare valve in my truck due to them going bad so easily lately.
been there, done that...

a piece of all-thread JB welded in place on the bowl and a new nut works well, I wasn't going to buy a new bowl and it's held up for 60K so far.
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Old 03-08-2011, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b-uno View Post
isnt there a way one could plug the bowl where the drain valve is to eliminate it totally?
The fuel bowl is there to separate water from the fuel. Once separated, the only way to drain the water from the bowl is to use the drain valve. If you plug the drain valve, you'd have to open the top of the bowl and sop up all water and diesel with a rag until the bowl is empty and dry.

If you get a tank of contaminated fuel (happens more frequently than you might imagine) you'd be stopping quite a bit to empty the bowl until you could get home and have the tank drained. If you're on a trip or vacation, it'd be even a bigger pain.

Stewart
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Old 03-08-2011, 02:09 PM
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greythorn3
how do u know when to drain the bowl? i never have in 2 years, other then to change the fuel filter when we first got it 2 years ago.
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Old 03-08-2011, 02:09 PM
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