It's official. I'm going to attempt to replace all of these tomorrow. The IP was replaced with a rebuild last year by the PO, but the injectors and glow plugs are worn.

I'd like to get all torque specs for this job.

Glow plugs -
Injectors - 35lbs-ft (seems low)
Rocker hold-downs -
Valve covers -

I noticed some of the clips that go on the glow plugs have broken, but still hold from friction. Are these replaceable? I've been soaking the injector bases and glow plugs with PB Blaster hoping it will make things easier. Any tips or pointers?

Unfortunately, I think this is a waste of time because of the oil my motor is burning, but it should make it run better until I find a replacement. I assume I can literally remove everything I install on this motor and put it on any 6.9 replacement.

 

Glow plug clips can be replaced with "Bullet" connectors, they slip on the same way. I believe it will be the yellow size (I think that's what I used).

I just sent a sample injector and cap to my dad to get him to machine some brass or aluminum as well... I'm sick of plastic crap.

If no-one gets back later I have the torque specs at home.

 

6.9l TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft.Lbs. (N.m)
Camshaft Gear Screw 12-18 (16-24)
Connecting Rod Cap Bolts (1) 48-54 (65-73)
Cylinder Head Bolts (2) 80 (109)
Exhaust Manifold Bolts 35 (48)
Flywheel-to-Crankshaft Bolts 47 (64)
Injection Nozzle 35 (48)
Injection Pump Adapter Bolts 14 (19)
Injection Pump Outlet Fitting Nut 22 (30)
Intake Manifold Bolts 24 (33)
Main Bearing Cap Bolts (3) 95 (129)
Rocker Arm Bolts 20 (27)
Vibration Damper-to-Crankshaft Bolt 90 (122)
Water Pump Cover Bolts 14 (19)

(1)Tighten in 2 steps.
(2)Tighten in 4 steps. See CYLINDER HEAD Installation.
(3)Tighten in 2 steps..







7.3 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
Camshaft Gear Allen Screw 15 (20)
Connecting Rod Nut Step 1 38 (51) Step 2 51 (69)

Cylinder Head Bolt 7.3l (*1) Step 1 65 (88) Step 2 90 (122)
Step 3 100 (135) Step 4 100 (135)

Exhaust Manifold Bolt(*2) 35 (47)
Fan Clutch-to-Water Pump Nut 45 (61)
Flywheel-to-Crankshaft(*3) 47 (64)
Glow Plug 12 (16)
Injector Nozzle 35 (47)
Injection Pump Gear Bolt 25 (34)
Injection Pump Gear Cover Bolt(*3) 14 (19)
Intake Manifold Bolt(*4) 24 (33)
Main Bearing Cap Bolt Step 1 75 (101) Step 2 95 (129)
Oil Cooler-to-Cylinder Block Bolt Front Header 24 (33)
Rear (Filter) Header 14 (19)
Oil Pump Pick-Up Tube Bracket-to-Main Bearing Cap Nut 14 (19)
Oil Pump Pick-Up Tube-to-Oil Pump Bolt 14 (19)
Rocker Arm Bolt 20 (27)
Vibration Damper Bolt 90 (122)
Water Outlet (Thermostat Housing) 20 (27)
Water Pump(*3) 14 (19)

INCH Lbs. (N.m)
Rocker Arm Cover Bolt 72 (8)

NOTES:
(*1)At steps 1 and 2, tighten bolts in numerical sequence beginning with bolt No. 1. At steps 3 and 4, tighten bolts in line sequence beginning with bolt No. 15. See Fig. 3 .
(*2)Tighten to specification in numerical sequence beginning with bolt No. 1, then tighten again to same specification in line sequence beginning with bolt No. 4. See Fig. 2 .
(*3)Coat threads with thread sealing compound.
(*4)Tighten to specification in numerical sequence beginning with bolt No. 1, then tighten again to same specification in line sequence beginning with bolt No. 9. See Fig. 1 .

 

When retorquing the rocker arms, is it advisable to loosen them first, then torque them down properly?

I've seen some mention of the injectors loosening if only torqued to 35lbs-ft. Is this true? Should I bump it to 40-45lbs-ft?

 

Remember you only need to have it tight enough for the soft copper washer to seal. After your install squirt a little soapy water around the injector while it's rnning, no bubbles means there's no leaks and tight enough. 40-45 won't hurt any if it helps you sleep.

 

I've doused the injector & glow plug bases with PB Blaster in hopes of loosening things up. Is the low torque spec to avoid compressing the washer too much?

 

Thanks for posting that could you explain it to me a little better i am probably just having a brain fart but for example Water Pump(*3) 14 (19) which number is the ft. lbs that you have to tighten it up to 14 or 19 just a bit confused like always

 

No you don't want yellow size its way too big, yellow is 12-10 gauge

I used the 14-16 gauge female bullet connector and it worked beautifully, been on there for half a year now

 

same here it works like a charm

 

I guess they're called "valve lever post bolts." Any special torquing sequence? I'm not pulling the head, just VC's.

 

nope just make sure the levers are not activated i dont know what the proper term is but if they are activated rotate the motor a bit till both are closed or the bolt will be undertorqued

 

How do I tell if they're activated?

 

the pushrods should be easy to rotate as you tighten them. when they are torqued they still should rotate

 

Thanks!

 

From the article:

There you go! I had to go back and look, so don't feel bad...