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  #1  
Old 11-17-2010, 11:24 AM
65f100CoryE. 65f100CoryE. is offline
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1987 Mustang 2.3L wierd starting issue

Looking for a little guidance on this one.
completely rebuilt 2.3L 1987
problem was befor and after rebuild.
when I go to start it the fuel pump comes on for a few seconds then I crank it over and it will not start the 1st time.
if I turn the key completely off and do it again it starts instantly on the 2nd or 3rd time. I am not sure where to look at this one. I have changed the fuel filter (it was plugged pretty good) thought that would solve it but no. Am I missing something simple stupid here or is this just one of those wierd glitches in the ECM or something wierd. I have never had it not start but I don't want to risk it if I want to rely on this car for the winter.
Any thoughts and help would be apreciated.

info
Stock 2.3L rebuild using a 92 bottom end
87 head with the 92 roller cam lifters and followers
blocked egr
removed catalytic
removed intake silencer innerds.

It feels like an electrical problem but not sure and there is no check engine codes that I know of and the check engine light is not on and it does work.
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  #2  
Old 11-30-2010, 12:46 PM
mustangman mustangman is offline
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i have like 4, 2.3s mustangs,, what i like to do is bypass the fuel pump relay alltogether, its under the drivers seat, just run 12v switch, iuse a house120 switch as they never go out,,the pink with black stripe goes to the pump, this way you have total control of the pump, good anti theft gizmo also, hide the switch,,,you can prevent flooding this way on super 20 below cold days , you control when you want the pump on,, they flood easy on super cold days, let me tell you the 2.3 is to me the toughest ford motor, weak in that year application but its tough you cant kill them, why you needed a rebuild is beyond me they are good for 400,000 miles,, i have total trust in the 2.3 for any extreme weather, carry a spare ignition module,, and also change the ign switch its shaped like a rectangle, not the key switch,, the stock ign switches do melt and make the ign terminals get hot and melt and you'll be stranded, 30 dollar item has the two tamper proof bolts,, the good ol 2.3 originated in germany,, like i said its fords best,,, that ign switch i mentioned will give itermitent ign starting issues, one day it'll start the next day it won't, most mechanics cant chase the problem to it,,,, change the ign key switch
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  #3  
Old 11-30-2010, 02:32 PM
65f100CoryE. 65f100CoryE. is offline
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Thanks for the response I had been leaning towards an ignition related problem. to be honest it has never not started and always on the 1st 2nd or maybe 3rd flip of the key. as for the rebuild was because the car did have a hard 250k on it and was run out of oil before I got it. it ran ok before just burned more oil than gas.
I rebuilt it as I wanted a cool replacement for an ultra gay 2004 kia rio not meant for 6' tall 310lb dudes to drive. hehehe
When I rebuilt it I used a 1992 2.3 bottom end as I had one given to me in really good condition, I put a fast polish on the crank a quick hone on the cylinders and new bearings and rings (standard size) I then took the roller cam, followers, and lifters out of the 92 head and used it in my 87 hea.
Blocked EGR
removed intake silencer innerds
and chopped the catalytic
I got 32mi/gal (canadian gallon) 4.54L/Gal vs 3.78L/Gal(US)
runs and starts every time
it does throw a code 13 'unable to control idle at low RPM' but it seems to idle fine and good driveability.
Would that be the Idle Air Control on the side of the throttle body? I have a good one spare from the 92 intake plenum.
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  #4  
Old 12-01-2010, 10:53 AM
mustangman mustangman is offline
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try replacing the idle air valve or clean it out, some guys drill a 1/8 hole inside that idle air valve, on the 5.0s though.. hmm never had problems with high idle,,,havn't had my engines throw a code yet, would like to convert one to carb one day using the stock roller cam from a 91 stang on a 87 block, did you notice a big power change with the roller cam?, all my 2.3s on the road are not rollers, i do have two roller cams setups on the shelf,,, hey a good site for 2.3 engine buildups is www.4m.net under the ministock racingtech section,, lot of 2.3 dirt racer buildups, lots do the carb conversion using the 2.3 efi intake, just adapt a carb spacer plate, sure nice to get away from all the computer sht, most run a 350cfm two barrel carb
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  #5  
Old 12-02-2010, 10:37 PM
65f100CoryE. 65f100CoryE. is offline
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This car is going to be more or less a daily driver I don't mind the EFI seems to start and run pretty good even in the extreme cold. I am also going to do the turbo swap as well I have a full 2.3L turbo set up that I am going to put in eventually. as for performance it is hard to say because I did all the items at once my car only has 2.73 rear open diff so it really revs low. before when I first got the car it would struggle to keep 65mi/hr on even the slightest incline tach had to be at least 2500 - 2800 before it would even think about maintaining. now I can be putting along goin 45 -50 mi/hr in 5th and rest my foot on the gas and it will happily climb... before it would bog and rattle like a diesel now it pulls gently. I am happy with it. have some other wierd issues with the car. that I can not attribute to exhaust, rear diff or ujoint or something I get a god awefull rumble at hiway speed.. it is more noise than anything the car does not vibrate and it basically sounds like the muffler or pipe resting too close to the body or something. thanks for the link and info will keep informed.
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  #6  
Old 12-04-2010, 03:03 PM
tomw tomw is offline
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Try turning the key from off to on a few times before you crank it. If the engine fires and runs fine, you have a leakdown problem in the fuel system. Either the regulator is letting the fuel flow back to the tank or the fuel pump check valve [in the tank] is letting the fuel all out of the tubing, leaving the system dry for the 1st crank of the day. Or an injector could be allowing the fuel to drip into the intake manifold.
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  #7  
Old 12-04-2010, 04:54 PM
65f100CoryE. 65f100CoryE. is offline
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I measured the fuel pressure from cold 0PSI key on engine off it shoots up to 40PSI and then slowly drops to about 20.. after 30 - 45 seconds. stays around 18-20 for an hour or so. I think it is ignition issue but not sure. so far I have never had to cycle the key more than 3 times. it will start on first turn about 6 out of 10 times then the other 3 times its 2 flips of the key and 1 in 10 its 3 never more than that. I am not going to worry about it for now. I have have a complete spare distributor waiting for a rainy day other than that all seems well.
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Old 12-04-2010, 04:54 PM
 
 
 
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