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Wiper Motor Problem

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Old 11-16-2010, 05:19 PM
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eraser5 eraser5 is offline
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Wiper Motor Problem

My wipers keep quitting, and not in the good intermittent way. They just stop for a while, then start up again. Of course it is only a problem if it rains.

So my guess is the motor. The wires look OK, and the problem does not really care if the wipers are on hi or low. If I use intermittent, the wiper run a bit longer. Heat seems to the problem. If there is not much rain ( more drag on the wipers) the wipers quit pretty fast.

Anyone else have this problem?
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Old 11-16-2010, 09:29 PM
poocher pup poocher pup is offline
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sounds more like the switch( contacts inside going bad ) also check for linkage binding.
1987 f-250 6.9l t-19 4x4 xlt lariet, air tank rear bumper, 3" lift, soupbowl delete,straight piped
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Old 11-16-2010, 10:20 PM
PLC7.3 PLC7.3 is offline
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If you put up some info re your truck........ it would make it easier!!!!!

Try this info on for size.......an old post I saved.

It's by the park brake....
After viewing several posts on wiper problems I decided to tackle the "black box" wiper delay control under the dash. After I got the thing out , unplugged, and in my hand I pulled it apart as described in other posts and I found just what I was told I would find, broken solder joints (3) connecting what appears to be a switch/relay mounted on a sheet metal "platform" with 2 "wings" (heat sinks?). The 3 jounts connect the switch and the 2 legs of the "platform" to the circuit board. I re-soldered the connections, flipped the board over and then used JB weld to glue the legs of the "platform" down to the board and used a big dab to glue the side of the platform to the side/end of the black "cube" which sits next to the platform on the board. This glue job will help the platform stay in place under vibration better than the weak solder joints in the stock set up(I hope). Hard to describe but if you open the box (2 screws) you will see what I am describing pretty clearly. I re-assembled the board in to the box, reversed the metal mounting bracket (used same holes in box and bracket but rotated it 180 deg.) Then re-mounted the unit under the dash in a place well away from vibration (I hope). I used a rubber washer (made from an inner tube) between the truck and the mounting bracket this should keep vibration down (I hope). I now have two (2) constant speeds: slow and " a little faster", and I also have my intermittent settings back. YEEEE HAWWWW!! Saved some green, justified my hanging around this site to the wife, all is well and good.

Thanks to previous posters who suggested opening the box.
93 F250 SC 4x4 E4OD 355LS
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Old 11-16-2010, 10:42 PM
swooshcmk swooshcmk is offline
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I've had 2 fail this way. How's the gap seal at the back of the hood? Mine is dry brittle and cracked. The water flows down in the crack and is directed right on top of the wiper motor. The water built up inside the motor and seized up the motors brushes. I was able to take the wiper motor apart and clean up the brushes and fix the problem on the rebuilt wiper (less than a year old!) When I put it together I sealed the bugger up to keep the water out from on top and I drilled a small drain hole in the bottom of the wiper motor frame to let water that does get in find it's way back out.

If you've got power at the wiper motor connector but the wiper isn't running it's in the wiper motor.

Best of luck.
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Old 11-17-2010, 05:34 PM
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eraser5 eraser5 is offline
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Sorry, I tried setting my sig line, but it failed (fixed it). I have an 86 F250 6.9L.

The problem is a "main line " issue. The failure happens in any "ON" position, not just 1 or 2. The seal at the cowl is horrible. I will check the motor for damage.
'86 F250 6.9L 4 Speed Extra rust, no extra charge.
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