Dielectric Grease

 

You might want to check with a test light the Tach side of the coil while cranking, it should flash.

The grease used on electrical connectors/connections is "DIELECTRIC GREASE".
The grease used on the TFI module for heat transfer is white "THERMAL COMPOUND".
They are not to be used interchangeably.

 

Thanks guys. I'll be looking into it as soon as I can see out there and will post the results.

 

Ok I checked, the tach side of the coil is flashing when I roll the engine over.. I also tried another coil wire but no spark yet..

 

After checking for spark by pulling a wire off the dist. and incerting a screw driver,

Put the coil wire off the dizzy, place it near a clean metal bracket, does it arc a spark? Should jump from the metal inside the boot to the metal. If you have to put a screw driver in the end of the coil wire, place the shaft of the screwdriver near clean metal and test it.

If it doesn't jump a spark test it right at the coil, using a screwdriver to shorten the gap, if sparks there but not via the coil wire try another coil wire.

Then pull a plug or two, test them for spark. First ground out the base of the plug and test, if the plug doesn't spark move the base of the plug just off the ground, if a spark jumps from the plug to ground the plug itself is fouled.

I didn't see where you stated the age/condition of the cap/rotor/wires, if you did and I missed it I apologize. If everything is moist spray it down with WD-40 to displace the moisture and retest.

 

Plugs are just over a week old. Wires, cap, and rotor all in good shape. No moisture, its parked under the carport.

Thanks for giving it a go and adding some input. This one really has me stumped

 

Yea sounds a little odd but sounds like a voltage problem, what was the result of testing for spark at the coil itself and coil wire? Nothing no spark?

You said a test light flashed while connected to the tach side of the coil while cranking.
Flashes sporadically and weak or flashes/lights up solid on and very bright?

How much voltage to the coil on the other side, ignition side. key in "on" and "start" positions? Good solid connection with constant battery voltage, 12v +?

Faulty harness plug connection at the coil is a fairly common / known issue.

Myself I cut the plug off, soldered on new slide on connectors for each wire, then slid the two on separately to insure a solid connection. I had to cut the wires back several inches adding new wire to remove all the corroded green conductors. Made a world of difference in the way my 94 ran after doing so.

Not saying is it your issue, just that area needs close scrutiny before eliminating it as the possible cause of your no/weak spark condition.

 

Check the ECM and Fuel Pump Relays. They are under a shield on the firewall. I have this engine and harness in my 64 F100. I have had the 2 seperate Fuel and the ECM relays become weak and provide pressure on key on but upon crank drop out and cause a no start condition with either lack of fuel or lack of power to the ECM. It would cause truck to just die some times and restart a hour or a day later. If it is still the stock factory relay these have the issues.

I went through the coil, TIF and all back traces and it drove me nuts.


I replaced each one and have had no issues since.

Something you may try?

Garbz

 

Yes i felt i had a fuel related problem and i did too but it was also an electrical problem and those electrical schematics from subford are in there. You will have to dig in my posts to solve your problem . Trust me if youll take the time to read those posts youll solve yor problem

BigLar

 

Hey some good new, after installing a second rebuilt dist.,, and a new coil,, I finally got spark.
Now the bad, no fire yet as far as fuel but with starter fluid it fires.

Understanding I dont know jack about these EFI deals. I marked the location at which the rotor was pointing and marked the base and a location on the block before pulling the dist. altho it seems I'm a little out of time.
Could that be why I'm not getting Fuel?

 

But as I understand it as long as I'm not getting spark my fuel system wont build high pressure.

Not a true statement, kinda of a whats first chicken or egg deal.

It will build full pressure with no spark, wouldn't start if it didn't, only need turn key to on or start position to do so. Its a timed thing until motor starts, computer powers pump a second or two then stops.

Then after engine is running computer receives the continued signal from PIP, motor spinning, continuously powers pump.

Granted if it has no spark its not going to receive the continued signal and turn off pump, operator let off key, but fuel pressure is not dependent on spark at the plugs.

 

I have to tell all of you guys a Great Big Thank You!! Its running in the driveway as I type.. This round is on me,, infact I'm buying all nite!!

Hot damn I have me old Ford back!!


Thanks a bunch guys!! Your top of the pile in my book!!

 

Sounds like that first rebuild dizzy might have had a weak a** pip signal.

 

Another reason why you should never trust those "rebuilt" distributors. It happens time after time, they prove themselves worthless.

 

What i ended up doing was getting a ford motorcraft Stator and put that in the rebuilt dizzy. I have found that with electrical problems USE motorcraft parts. They cost more but in the long run it will save you.

BigLar