Won't move in reverse 2004 F-150 4x4, 5.4L Automatic
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Won't move in reverse 2004 F-150 4x4, 5.4L Automatic
Posting this for a friend who isn't registered here yet.
2004 F-150 F-150 4x4, 5.4L V8 Automatic won't go in reverse. It locks up after going a couple inches and all I can do is rev the engine after that. The truck goes forward all right.
While the tow operator was checking out the problem, I saw that the drive shaft turned properly when going forward but when he put it in reverse, the small lug nuts that connect the shaft to the transfer case struggled to turn the way they should and the whole assembly just locked up. The repair shop will open the transfer case and let me know what they find out.
My first question is any guesses as to what the problem is? How much do you think it will cost--best and worst case scenarios. Thanks for any suggestions you all might have.
I'll share this link with him and check back if anyone follow up questions for him. Thanks.
2004 F-150 F-150 4x4, 5.4L V8 Automatic won't go in reverse. It locks up after going a couple inches and all I can do is rev the engine after that. The truck goes forward all right.
While the tow operator was checking out the problem, I saw that the drive shaft turned properly when going forward but when he put it in reverse, the small lug nuts that connect the shaft to the transfer case struggled to turn the way they should and the whole assembly just locked up. The repair shop will open the transfer case and let me know what they find out.
My first question is any guesses as to what the problem is? How much do you think it will cost--best and worst case scenarios. Thanks for any suggestions you all might have.
I'll share this link with him and check back if anyone follow up questions for him. Thanks.
#2
Okay I signed up.
I just got a call from the shop. Two things--the reverse issue was because the emergency brake cable had rusted to whatever it connects to, to do its job. They will order a new cable. However, after the cable was disconnected, they took the truck for a drive to check it out and it had very little power and the check engine light was flashing. They think it could be the coil or something is shorting out because we've had constant rain since yesterday. Anyway, they'll run diagnostics on it on Monday and call Ford to talk to them about it.
I just got a call from the shop. Two things--the reverse issue was because the emergency brake cable had rusted to whatever it connects to, to do its job. They will order a new cable. However, after the cable was disconnected, they took the truck for a drive to check it out and it had very little power and the check engine light was flashing. They think it could be the coil or something is shorting out because we've had constant rain since yesterday. Anyway, they'll run diagnostics on it on Monday and call Ford to talk to them about it.
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Beins the check engine light is flashing this is a type A missfire. It takes a pretty good missfire to cause a type a missfire. The check engine light flashes to warn the driver that the miss is so bad you are dumping raw fuel into the exhaust and can cause severe catalyst damage. The vehicle should not be driven at this time. All my money is on a stuck open injector. Beins it is a 2004 5.4 it is the 3 valve engine. I have repaired plenty of these engines with stuck open injectors. If your catalyst are ruined then depending on the mileage ford will replace the catalyst under related damage. So if the shop tells u, u have a stuck open injector be sure to ask if the checked the catalyst efficiency after the repairs are made.
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The key here is the flashing check engine light. That means that the misfire is bad enough to cause cat damage. If you have a bad COP or plug that's one thing. Replacing those fixes the problem uniformly. If its the injector and its stuck in the open position you could hydrolock (bent rod) your engine. Whether its the plug, COP or injector you're still dumping unburnt fuel into the exhaust. If the cat is already dead you'll know it. You won't have any power, the the rig will pop, surge and hesitate. Its kinda like the old banana in the tailpipe trick. Once the cat media melts it blocks the exhaust and you get all types of back-pressure into the engine.
Either way, I wouldn't drive it 40 miles to the dealer if that light is still on, it could end up costing you a new engine rather than just an injector and cat. Put it on a trailer.
Either way, I wouldn't drive it 40 miles to the dealer if that light is still on, it could end up costing you a new engine rather than just an injector and cat. Put it on a trailer.
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Well you guys made the right call, ultimately. I really appreciate the great knowledge on this board.
The truck was "fixed" last week Wednesday and they replaced one bank of spark plugs. The emergency cable was replaced.
However, when I drove up a steep hill, leaving work, the check engine light flashed again so I pulled over and called the garage. I had it towed again today back to garage and the catalytic converters need replacing. The prices they quoted were very ugly ($1700 for one side and $1500 for the other.) And the mass airflow sensors need replacing and they'd like the other bank of plugs replaced as well.
Does anyone know of a good aftermarket set of catalytic converters that aren't as expensive as what the garage first quoted? They are calling around to find something cheaper that won't break down after a year because they've run into that problem already. Thanks guys.
The truck was "fixed" last week Wednesday and they replaced one bank of spark plugs. The emergency cable was replaced.
However, when I drove up a steep hill, leaving work, the check engine light flashed again so I pulled over and called the garage. I had it towed again today back to garage and the catalytic converters need replacing. The prices they quoted were very ugly ($1700 for one side and $1500 for the other.) And the mass airflow sensors need replacing and they'd like the other bank of plugs replaced as well.
Does anyone know of a good aftermarket set of catalytic converters that aren't as expensive as what the garage first quoted? They are calling around to find something cheaper that won't break down after a year because they've run into that problem already. Thanks guys.
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If no joy on the above for the cats call around to local muffler and performance shops and see what some aftermarket hi-flow cats are going for. You don't have to get the Ford cats (they're expensive because they're dealer parts and there is a national shortage).